I know that this has been talked about for awhile but I am not looking forward to changing the fuel tank sender unit again. Three times in one year is a bit much and yes I have tried the spring loading trick on the stock sender. I checked around a bit and found that Dodge did not do me any favors when they built the sender for that they used a funny resistance curv for the sender. It is about 10 ohms full and 120 ohms empty so that we can not use an aftermarket sender. Does any body have any other ideas to correct the problem???

 

Here's what I did to mine: I bought a new unit from a ******* when the stock one went bad. Before installing it, I modified it, different than what's described on dodgeram.org. <br><br>I took it to the machine shop I work part-time at, disassembled the unit. Instead of making a new pin, I pressed out the stock one and threaded the end with #4-40.<br>Then I had to mill some of the plastic material from the pivot arm/float assembly to expose the threads on the pin. I reassembled the unit, installed two #4-40 jamb nuts with washer to load to pivot arm/float assembly against the back plate. I installed the new sender in April and haven't had any problems to date.<br><br>I still have the old sender unit. There is just enough wear around that pin to allow play of the pivot that contact is lost to the grid, which causes the erroneous fuel gauge readings. Otherwise it looks fine. I'll rebuild this one should the one I modified fails.