Anyone have a service manual lying around and can tell me what torque the bolts for the front driveshaft to transfer case require?
And is locktite required or recommended?

I had it come loose on me the last time I was off pavement.
Either the bolts coming loose destroyed a u-joint cap, or the u-joint cap coming apart loosened the bolts.

Tried asking on another board and am only catching flak for my choice of aftermarket drive shaft.

I need to get it back on before the snow flies.


phox

 

The terminology in the FSM is throwing me off, but if it's the front shaft flange yoke bolts, 65 ft/lbs. The installation instructions indicate that those are the bolts hold the u-joint to the the transfer case companion flange. Doesn't say anything about lock-tite.

 

I knew it was called something screwey in there,
it considers the front driveshaft seperate from the part that connects it to the transfer case,
although they come out and fall in the dirt as one piece.

That doesn't seem like a lot of torque, but I'll give it a whirl.

Many thanks.


phox

 

$10 says I can guess what site it is.

 

In the transfer case section, there's a front yoke nut listed that takes 90-130 ft/lbs. I can't figure out exactly where that's located, though. I'm guessing since it says nut rather than bolt that there are studs somewhere that the nuts go onto.

I haven't had to tear into one or otherwise mess with it, so I'm mainly just trying to go by the descriptions and drawings in the FSM. Let me know if you want any pages from the manual, I can print them out to pdf and e-mail them to you if it would help.

 

The bolts have loc tite from the factory. 3/8 impact gets them as tight as they need to be.

 

The front yoke nut is the nut that holds on the flange to the output shaft of the t-case. This circular flange has four bolts. The four bolts on that flange bolt on the driveshaft. The axle side has a nut that is called the pinion nut. Then there are four 8mm bolts that hold on the u-joint caps. Hope that helps.

 

These bolts are notorious for coming loose... I found my front D/S laying on the crossmember once. One of the holes was wallowed out, so I drilled that one through, got new bolts 1" longer than OEM(those mean black oxide flange head ones) and nuts, and cranked them puppies on there with nuts on the back side of the flange.. Not a loose bolt yet.

A threaded flange isn't a good idea IMO. Not very much surface area for the threads.

 

That's an idea I'll file away, just in case.

phox

 

They kinda looked like they might have had a little blue substance on them.
Just hard to tell if it was loctite, or paint overspray or what.

Don't have an impact wrench, all my wrenching is of the armstrong type.


phox