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Fluid leak around brake pedal

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Old 05-09-2010, 04:40 PM
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Fluid leak around brake pedal

I get small amounts of fluid that leak into the bottom of the cab around where the push rod for the brake pedal comes through the firewall.....I'm assuming this is brake fluid. It's very small amounts, but you can still see it running in when you have rubber floor mats....

Is this fairly normal on these trucks to have small amounts of fluid leaking from this spot. Is there a seal that is easily replaceable that can stop it from leaking? I looked it up & it looks like it's the booster push rod input where it leaks a little.
Old 05-09-2010, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mstep3
I get small amounts of fluid that leak into the bottom of the cab around where the push rod for the brake pedal comes through the firewall.....I'm assuming this is brake fluid. It's very small amounts, but you can still see it running in when you have rubber floor mats....

Is this fairly normal on these trucks to have small amounts of fluid leaking from this spot. Is there a seal that is easily replaceable that can stop it from leaking? I looked it up & it looks like it's the booster push rod input where it leaks a little.
IT'S NOT NORMAL.replace master cyl
Old 05-09-2010, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by johnh
IT'S NOT NORMAL.replace master cyl


I think it's actually been like this for years & I just never really noticed it because it wasn't much fluid. Fluid reservoir doesn't even show any changes...

The service manual says that the hydraulic booster has to be replaced if there are any seal leaks.....Is this the correct thing to do? Noticed it's not a cheap part....$500...
Old 05-09-2010, 09:01 PM
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You can loosen the nuts holding the master to the booster. Then pull the rubber boot off & check for dampness. Even a little means that it is leaking. Replace it. Do the flex hoses while you have the system down. Now is also a good time to check the wheel cylinders & change to the 1 ton chevy cylinders if yours are leaking or old. You will like having a refurbished brake system.
Old 05-09-2010, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Junk Man
You can loosen the nuts holding the master to the booster. Then pull the rubber boot off & check for dampness. Even a little means that it is leaking. Replace it. Do the flex hoses while you have the system down. Now is also a good time to check the wheel cylinders & change to the 1 ton chevy cylinders if yours are leaking or old. You will like having a refurbished brake system.


the leak on mine seems to be on the back side around the input shaft that connects into brake pedal...it doesn't seem like there's a very easy way to check on it without pulling the booster out completely....

service manual had some things that you can do to check and see if booster is working good & i'm going to try these.....if it's functioning ok I don't think I will be getting in a big hurry to pull booster out just yet...

My brakes are working very good. Don't have any problems with them.
Old 05-10-2010, 01:14 AM
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If its leaking it would be PS fluid, If MC was leaking it would be impossible for it to leak in the cab, it would be leaking under the hood inbetween the MC and booster.

My truck has 492,000kms on it now, and has had a stain just enough to collect dust around the boot, I've never seen it run down the firewall though. I've kept an eye on it for the past 200,000kms and its never gotten any worse, there are kits to rebuild the HB, but I would not reccommend unless your a licensed mech,

I had a link for a rebuild kit, but it appears to be dead
Old 05-10-2010, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by nickg
If its leaking it would be PS fluid, If MC was leaking it would be impossible for it to leak in the cab, it would be leaking under the hood inbetween the MC and booster.

My truck has 492,000kms on it now, and has had a stain just enough to collect dust around the boot, I've never seen it run down the firewall though. I've kept an eye on it for the past 200,000kms and its never gotten any worse, there are kits to rebuild the HB, but I would not reccommend unless your a licensed mech,

I had a link for a rebuild kit, but it appears to be dead

you're right....after looking at it again it is power steering fluid. it has purple color to it when i look close at it. I guess this good sign that it's brake booster that has the bad seal. this is what i suspected at first...
Old 05-11-2010, 05:45 PM
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If you guys were looking at having to replace the unit for hydroboost on your trucks would you go direct through chrysler to get one, or do you guys recommend getting remanufactured from somebody like Cardone. Chrysler wants $550 for hydraulic brake booster. Remanufactured ones are around $200. I don't mind paying the extra as long as it's a good one and lasts.....Only want to do it once & be done with it.
Old 05-11-2010, 07:21 PM
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I'm split on a lot of things, but look at it like this your orginal booster failed, and the dealer one will last likely as long as the one your replacing now...

booster takes less than 15min to change, (dont unhook MC lines!!) I'm sure the rebuilt (cardone) has a better warranty than the dodge one and its 300$ cheaper. because its easy to replace, I would buy the rebuilt version, based on price
Old 05-11-2010, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by nickg
I'm split on a lot of things, but look at it like this your orginal booster failed, and the dealer one will last likely as long as the one your replacing now...

booster takes less than 15min to change, (dont unhook MC lines!!) I'm sure the rebuilt (cardone) has a better warranty than the dodge one and its 300$ cheaper. because its easy to replace, I would buy the rebuilt version, based on price

Thanks. I didn't know that you can replace the booster without taking the master cylinder out & taking the brake lines off....I thought I was going to have to bleed the brakes & it was going to be an all day job.

Cardone does seem to have a better warranty than the Chrysler parts. I think they have a year warranty.
Old 05-11-2010, 10:45 PM
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yep, just unbolt the MC from the booster, and gently lay to the side,(fender side of truck) secure it with twine/zip ties so it can't fall and kink the lines. unhook the pressure lines from the booster. from inside cab unhook the rod that goes to the pedal, and remove the booster mounting bolts (cant remember if nuts are in the cab or under hood) pull the booster out of the truck, assemble in reverse order

when installing new booster pay attention to the length of the rod that is inbetween the booster and the MC, sometimes they dont come with the rod or the rod is the wrong length, so make sure you measure it. if too short or too long you will have brake problems!! if required your old rod can be removed and installed into the new booster
Old 05-12-2010, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by nickg
yep, just unbolt the MC from the booster, and gently lay to the side,(fender side of truck) secure it with twine/zip ties so it can't fall and kink the lines. unhook the pressure lines from the booster. from inside cab unhook the rod that goes to the pedal, and remove the booster mounting bolts (cant remember if nuts are in the cab or under hood) pull the booster out of the truck, assemble in reverse order

when installing new booster pay attention to the length of the rod that is inbetween the booster and the MC, sometimes they dont come with the rod or the rod is the wrong length, so make sure you measure it. if too short or too long you will have brake problems!! if required your old rod can be removed and installed into the new booster

Thanks for the help. I appreciate it. This will make the job a lot easier. I will post and let you know how it comes out.
Old 05-14-2010, 01:31 PM
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I saw recently that you can get them from Advance or Autozone for 188.00, with lifetime warranty. That's the way I'd go.

Chris
Old 05-14-2010, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Stamey
I saw recently that you can get them from Advance or Autozone for 188.00, with lifetime warranty. That's the way I'd go.

Chris

Thanks. That's actually the way I went. I just got one through Advance Auto. Just for the fun of it I checked with the Dodge dealership too. They only wanted $677 for a new one.......
Old 05-15-2010, 01:12 AM
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mine only leaks if I am holding the brakes and doing a burnout, or spooling up the turbo for racing. it drips down a few drops, but it never leaks any other time. should I still replace it or is this normal?


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