I don't know how else to describe it but I'll be driving my truck and the engine seems to cut out for a split second at any speed while my foot is on the throttle, and then continues to run normally. It never stalls, it just has a hiccup. I can't really tell what makes it happen. Seems like an instant of fuel starvation or ignition blip but it happens so fast, I can't figure what's doing it. It will do this maybe once or twice in a day of driving. This used to happen when the truck was brand new but it resolved itself for 10 years, but now I am afraid truck is trying to tell me something. I greatly appreciate any input on what this may be.

 

Check for codes. Loss of power under acceleration has lead "most" of us towards a VP replacement. Prior to try the APPS reset and/or replacement. May also want to check the crank sensor.

 

Thank you for your reply high bid, that gives me a direction to start my troubleshooting. Looks like I am going to learn some new things while I work this out. I am shuddering to think it is my VP but I guess we all have to face that road some day. Thanks!!

 

I and many others have been through this one. Sounds exactly like my symptoms. It is the torque converter unlocking and then going back into lock up. It is caused by electrical glitches. Bad battery terminal connections. bad grounds. Clitches in the APPS. Mine turned out to be the lead from the alternator to the battery neg terminal. Wrapped it with tin foil and covered it with a wire loom . Also did the apps bypass. Now it runs smooth as silk. My trans shop put me onto the right path. A scan showed the trans to be fine but the PCM was sending signals to TC that triggered the unlock syndrome. Help on this forum got me lined out. I have the links to the bypass for the apps, and be sure to check your APPS adjustment and do a recalibrate procedure. These things are notorious for this problem. Here is the bypass link.
https://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/120505...%2047%20RE.pdf

 

Thank you whiskers for your suggestions. The more you think you know about these trucks, the more you need to know about them. I will do as you and high bid suggest to try to get to the bottom of this. I didn't pull any codes yesterday and will try to reset APPS when I can take a little time away from farm duties. I sure do appreciate your help!

P.S. - Would the bypass be as effective on my standard transmission as with automatic?

 

He didn't see your signature re: the trans. You won't get that symptom from a standard shift.

When mine did this it ended up being the ECM. Then my lift pump went out in my driveway and I had the intank installed by the dealer during the warranty period and its been fine for two years now. I hope this isn't your issue because its expensive to repair.

The best advice so far has been to do the code check. Turn the ignition on and off 3 times then watch the odometer window for a minute. It will show ---- then any codes and finich with ECM done, then more ---- and PCM done.

Good luck.

 

Yep, missed the sig. You probably have either APPS problem which you should check voltage adjustment and recalibrate. But also could be the VP or hopefully the lift pump is starting to get too weak, which will eventually cause VP to go also. But the electrical spikes could still cause your ECM problems. Check battery terminals, Check both batteries and insulate the Alt wire. Better safe than sorry.

 

Thanks again for your help. I installed a Raptor 100 a few months ago to cover any problems that might arise from lift pump issues. Fuel pressure has been very good for 11 years but lots better since the Raptor and luckily I never had an in-tank pump. I will check the APPS voltage whiskers and recalibrate and check for grounding. I will also look into the ECM SIXSLUG. So far, there were no codes when I checked yesterday, I have to use a regular code reader since my truck does not have the built-in reader in the instrument cluster. The truck has behaved well for the past couple of days, this hiccup is very intermittent and doesn't happen every day but I try to pay attention when I think it's trying to tell me something so I REALLY appreciate your help since it could save me a lot of grief in the long run.

 

I found with the APPS it can be out of adjustment and it won't throw codes. Mine was sending only .485 volts out at idle and the tag on the APPS read .604. Don't sound like a lot but was easy to adjust and then calibrate. Everything is better since. The only code I ever got was a 1693 or something near it. Said no communication with ECM. Always seemed funny to me if it couldn't talk to the ECM why was it running!

 

Had my son who worked for Dodge as a Diesel mechanic look at this thing and he was at a total loss because his code reader couldn't tell him the problem. They still don't teach them how to simply break things down for diagnosis. Told him all the things I have learned on the forums and him and his boss are amazed. But they still follow the book and I'm sure most of their customers leave with disgust. The fool who caused these things to have to be computer controlled should be shot!

 

Sorry for the mis advice re: the codes littlebuddie. I thought the 99's had that!

The APPS recal sounds like good advice.

 

I still haven't had time to troubleshoot my hiccup beyond looking for codes but it has been doing alright lately so I'll do a follow up soon. Hey, that's Ok SIXSLUG, I don't know all the ins-and-outs of every model Ram myself. whiskers, what'll they do when all us 'thinkers' don't happen to be available and the computer doesn't happen to work at a critical moment? Yesseree, things 'er gonna get fun for those 'mechanics' in the future. But it looks like we'll all be forced to riding buses and trams soon anyway. Cheers..........and thanks!

 

Any resolution?

Mine is doing something similar. If I'm going less than 30mph or so the truck will actually die. If I'm going faster it will just jerk/miss/hiccup or whatever but will continue to run. I have a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and after the problem sometimes the fuel pressure will drop to 0. If I'm going down the highway I just pop it into neutral and restart the truck. Everything returns to normal but the problem is intermediate. I'm thinking it's electrical problem but not sure where to start.

 

A bad cell in the one battery drawing to much current cause my fuel shut off to lose signal and would shut down the fuel cause me to get a pause when I poked the throttle. Check both batteries and see if you have a bad cell. Two new batteries cured my hesitation. My .02