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Corrosion inside A/C system

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Old May 21, 2009 | 03:08 AM
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Corrosion inside A/C system

I replaced the evaporator 2 summers ago along with the line that has the orifice and the drier. I took it to a buddy who worked at a Suzuki dealership and he pulled a vacuum, then added a little oil and freon. It worked great until last summer and leaked all out like it had before replacing the evaporator. So, it seems to be leaking out of the evap again based of the sniffer tests. Not sure why this new one would be leaking except that is was most likely made in China. SO, I got a USA made one, a new compressor and a new condenser along with a drier. I am in the process of replacing everything this time.

After pulling the drier and evap lines off I noticed some rust on the inside of the lines. Looks like water got in somehow perhaps from the leak or who knows. Anyone else have this problem? AM I going to be ok with re-using these a/c lines? I am trying to save money by doing this myself and it isn't working out to well. I think the condenser is bad and may be clogged with too much oil plus the fins are very damaged. The compressor I am replacing because the truck is a 2001 and I don't want to have to do this all over again. I want this a/c job to last at least 7 years like the last one.
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Old May 21, 2009 | 04:06 AM
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How long did you pull vac after replacing the evap if it wasn't 12 hrs or more you didn't boil out all the moisture causing the corrosion. To get the most life I would replace everything to start fresh and pull vac overnight before recharge so you don't trash the desiccant right away.
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Old May 21, 2009 | 11:08 AM
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Throw in a can of this stuff and recharge with other. I know you can buy artic chill at Auto Zone as for the sealer i got it at Bagnells. My system leaked out under dash. I threw a can of that stuff in recharged with synthetic never and issue again. I never replaced a part either. Sold truck 2 years later still working fine

http://www.toolsource.com/super-seal...rceid=googleps

http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com...00.html?ref=42
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Old May 21, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BigWhiteTruck
How long did you pull vac after replacing the evap if it wasn't 12 hrs or more you didn't boil out all the moisture causing the corrosion. To get the most life I would replace everything to start fresh and pull vac overnight before recharge so you don't trash the desiccant right away.
Since it was at a car dealership and I was taking up space inside their bay it was only pulled for about 30 minutes. I do not have access to pull vacuum for 24 hours not unless I go buy my own. I will not be doing the charge myself, so would it help to pull a vacuum for 24 hours, then take it up to an A/C shop and let them pull a vacuum for 30 minutes then charge it?
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Old May 21, 2009 | 11:25 PM
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hi
never heard of pulling a 24 hour vacuum ?

i would think that would be enough to burn up a vac pump ?

i leave mine on for app 1 hour , even then pump is pretty hot .

just make sure you do not release the vac to atmosphere befor charging allowing air in befor refrigeraint.
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Old May 21, 2009 | 11:40 PM
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The evaporator that I bought was total crap. It has a bigger leak in it than the 8 year old OEM one that it replaced after 1 season. Don't buy crap parts from Autozone or Ebay or you will be doing the job again and throwing your $ away. I say stick with US made.

Where can I get a new blen door for the defrost? Does the dealer sell just this part? The foam is just falling apart and is getting all over the inside of the box.
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Old May 22, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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I've had vacuum pumps running for 4 or 5 days straight with no problems. Yes they get hot but they are supposed to. I was working on bigger stuff than car a/c units and the systems had been loaded with water.
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Old May 22, 2009 | 11:50 PM
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vacuum pumps can run indefinately as long as the moisture content of the oil stays low.
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