If it's empty in spring again take back to dealer first, to see if they will do any coverage under warranty for you. If they won't then buy a DIY A/C recharge kit with leak stop and compressor oil in it, and top/fill up with it watching the cheap gauges(and don't overfill system). It's not as good as fixing properly(but then dealer was unable to fix properly either), but it does work good for slow hard to find leaks. It's only about $50 or so, instead of $1000-2000 or more at dealer or a/c shop, by the time they're done replacing everything , your call.

 

Dodge TSBs tell folks to avoid using "Sealers" as they coat everything in the system requiring EVERYTHING to be replaced when the system finally is repaired.

Dodge TSB:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/24-003-03.htm

 

Yes, Dodge does not want you to fix it, they want you to bring it in to them to replace everything. I've had to repair a few on hi-way trucks with sealers in a/c systems, although it is NOT NEAR AS BAD as they say it is(IMHO), unless someone has added LOTS of cans of sealer(1-2 is usually fine I've found). I added one can to my 1986 Cadillac(1.5 years ago slow leak-now still sealed and working), as has my wifes cousin whom I bought it off of(he added 2 cans in last 5-6 years, after spending $1500usd TWICE to fix system previously with same resulting leaks.

I've used those sealers throughout the years on my own vehicles with great results. Again it's another option and one to consider, depending on his finances, and if he wants to keep spending money to fix it, and how long he'll keep the truck. As lots of people tend not to fix a/c systems that have repeated problems, because of the repeated cost.

 

I think I'm going to go the evaporator route. My auto tech friend is an excellent resource (not expensive, priceless!) and his only concern is how to remove the dash. MotorAlldata speaks of having to remove the dash but doesn't give a procedure for it.

 

Ended up taking it to the dealer. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to do it so I bit the bullet and wrote the $900 check. Evaporator leaked. Replaced. COLD AIR NOW!

 

Glad you got it fixed. Can't understand why they did not see the dye at the pee hole. Mine was coming out the pee hole with the condensation water. When hit with the Black Light, it looked like someone had been bleeding in there. It was all the way down the firewall and frame.

Dave

 

I've found you sometimes have to recharge and dye up to three times before the drain tube will show any signs. Out here in the dry west it's a bit harder to create condensation to chase this leak. Of course that same weather also saves our evaps from rotting. Nothing worse than pulling a dash apart to find an evap that is as dry and clean.

 

As you can tell, I AGAIN have no A/C. It worked for the summer but I went to turn on my defrost and could hear the compressor short-cycling. And as well, no cold air.

So I have to call the dealer again......

 

Man that sucks.

Good luck,
Bob

 

Just for everyones info, My evaporator looked like brand new when it was removed. It had three holes on the same side about 3" apart, middle to the upper end of it. I should have taken a picture of it.

Dave

 

The evaportor coil in the dash is not that hard to replace. You can do it yourself, and then take it to be vacumed and recharged.

Here's how:

Take the battery terminals off for half an hour. (disables the airbags).

Remove panel right under steering column.

Unhook indicator cable for gear selector.

Remove 2 bolts holding steering column up and let the steering wheel rest on the drivers seat.

Remove the 5 screws along the top of the dashboard.

Remove the glove box and both kick panels.

Grab dashboard and twist it down in front. The secret to these things is the dash is mounted on hinge pins, so it will rotate down.

Reach inside the now open gap and unscrew the bolts for the ac box top side.

Tilt the dash back up, unscrew the bottom bolts, remove cover.

Undo outside lines, pull out old core.

Assemble in reverse order. Take about 4 hours and 3 beers.

You probably also want to replace the dryer unit just because you opend it, and the expansion valve. My book says it's located in the wide part of the fitting at the front of the truck where one of the ac lines connects to the condensor coil. Every one i talk to says it's located inside an ac line, under the air box. I beleive the second answer is the correct one, because looking at the fittings in front, neither are big enough to hone the orifce tube, Also add 2 oz. of oil for each component you replace. (evaporator and dryer= 4 oz).

You may also consider replaceing the heater core while it's all open. They tend to leak too.

Last step: Enjoy cold ac.