My A/C wasn't working so I added some R134a which quickly showed me that a rock had put a hole in my condenser. So I need a new one.

I looked in the service manual and replacement doesn't look difficult. Just remove a 4 bolts and disconnect/reconnect 2 A/C hoses. Also, from research on this site, I see that it is recommended to replace the receiver-drier at the same time since the system has been open for a few months. My manual only mentions an accumulator. Is this the same as the receiver-drier? If so, this also doesn't look difficult.

My only questions are:

1. do I need a special tool to disconnect/reconnect the A/C hoses? The manual says to use a spring lock coupling tool from A/C tool kit 6125. Do I have to use this tool or is there something more common that will work?

2. I'm assuming I don't need to evacuate the system since the hole in the condenser has drained the system. Is this a correct assumption?

3. Once I install the new condenser and accumulator, can I just add cans of R134a until a guage on the low pressure valve reads full or do I need to pay someone to completely evaculate/recharge the system?

Thanks in advance for you help.

 

.

Hope this helps you out

John (DH)

 

Dont you have to be a licensed shop to handle refrigerant and charge AC systems? For enviornmental reasons..

 

1, an auto parts store or an A/C supplies service shop might sell them.

2. Wrong, get the system evacuated. If there is moisture in the system when you charge it, the refrigerent and the moisture mix and becomes slightly corrosive, not good for the seals and other parts. It also acts as a piece of mind knowing that there is ZERO crud inside the lines. A total evacutaion also lets you know if there are other leaks in the system as the system has to hold vaccum for a period of time before it can be filled with a refrigerent charge.

3. Please do not charge it without a guage manifold. It is very easy to over charge and blow seals. Ambient temperature and relative humidity play a huge part in correct operating pressures in an A/C system. Look on the web and you can find the temp-pressure charts for R134a.

The guage manifold is somewhat cheap, I spent about 80 bucks for mine then another 20-30 for the correct adapter fittings for R134a (hi and low side) and the tank adapter for the charging line (yellow) on the manifold. However a vaccum pump is on the pricy side of things, usually at least 200 dollars.


And you are correct, a reciever/drier functions the same as an accumulator.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Dedar;
FYI, the OEM's typically put PAG refrigeration oil (PolyAlkene Glycol) in the system from the factory..('cause it's cheap!)
This stuff works good but unfortunately is HIGHLY hygroscopic just like most pure glycol's are.. A good hard vacuum is essential to pull any moisture from any opened system, but especially one with PAG oil... Since it's been exposed to the atmosphere for quite a while, let the vacuum pump pull the system down for a good long period of time... After all, a good vacuum pump doesn't mind running for hours on end.
To do otherwise, the absorbed moisture left in the PAG oil can expend the small amount of dessicant placed in the new accum/dryer.. Also, don't settle for one of those shop air powered venturi type vacuum pumps, use a REAL refrigeration grade mechanical vacuum pump to get it dry. Check around with some of your buddies to see if they have a vac pump you could borrow for a weekend.
If at all possible, evacuate from both the high and low pressure side at the same time using a gauge set to get the best evacuation and dehydration(see Jr's comment#3 on using a manifold gauge set). BTW, If one of your buddies has access to a vacuum pump, he's probably got access to a set of gauges too! If not, get yourself a set.

Can you tell if you lost very much oil? If so, restore enough of the same oil to keep the compressor safe and happy.


Keith

 

Dedar, Last night I dragged out my '97 shop manual for my truck. I looked up the A/C refrig oil charge and they listed a breakdown on approx how much oil is resident in each component of the A/C system..
In a nutshell, assembling a new, oil free system at the factory, they start out with a total 7.5oz of PAG oil in the original compressor.

According to the manual,
If the refrigerant system gets ruptured, 1oz of oil assumed lost. (this seems low to me)
If the condenser alone is replaced, replace 1oz of oil for a new condenser.
The Accum/Drier is assumed to retain 4oz of oil when removed!
If only the Compressor is replaced, they say to "drain the compressor and measure the oil and replace the same amount of new oil in the replacement compressor"...
I can't remember what the evap alone is assumed to hold. I believe it was also 1oz.

Good luck
K.

 

If this is the part that you need to tear the dash apart to repair ... be real careful when you reinstall the dash. If the fasteners holding the dash are too tight the dash will start cracking from several areas due to the vehicle twisting and temperature fluctuation.

... by the way, I am still looking for a grey dash for my 99 if anyone know of one.

PISTOL