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Briter lites

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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 07:53 AM
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Briter lites

I didnt get the sport headlites yet,there coming, but i wired in the relays, one for dim and one for brites, before i cut wires i turned the lites on and checked voltage at the lite socket,it was 11.21 on brites and 11.43 on dim, battery was 12. something,cant remember, this was with engine stopped,same values with engine running at the sockets.After installing relays voltage at the sockets were 12.14, engine running or not. Also wired it up so dims are on with the brites, and fogs are on all the time, with brites or dims.I also have the 9007 bulbs in the standard headlites,needed some adjusting but now have (it seems like double) the original illumination, took it out on the hiway last nite,its like nite and day,never got flashed by anyone and can finnaly see the deer, even can read the road signs now!!!!!!!!!,sports should be another improvement when and if i ever get them, with the way there working now,maybe sport headlites wouldnt improve enough to warrent the cost.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 07:58 AM
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You say you used the 9007 in place of the 9004s? I'm not understanding correctly. I'm very curious though.

I tried an aftermarket 100/80w bulbs, what a joke, don't waste the money. I bought a relay wiring kit for the headlights and that helped tremendously. That was the best money spend even with the factory 9004 bulbs.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 09:58 AM
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The 9004s are 65/45 watt and the 9007s are 65/55 watt,all i had to do was cut off one of the three tabs were the bulb fits in the back of the lite housing, then theyl fit rite in, once there in you have to reajust your lites because they they have a slightly different lite pattern to them but once aliened its like nite and day,also by running the dims with the brites you now can SEE!!!
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 11:56 AM
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Cut tabs - would like more info

Dodge Demon, do you have any more details on what tab(s) you cut off the 9007 lamp socket to they fit where 9004 socket fits? I have a 97 that I'm looking into improving the lighting and when comparing 9007 with 9004 lamps it appears the 9007 should be somewhat brighter. I've already done the mod to enable low beams on with the high beams, which made a nice improvement, but I'm still looking at ways to improve the lighting. I do plan to either buy an aftermarket system that incorporates relays that get their power straight from the battery (or make such a system myself), but still want to consider whether or not a conversion to 9007 would be worth the effort/expense.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 03:48 PM
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Before you change bulbs you should probably read this then if you still want to do it i will tell you how,I have no problem with it, I have been running the 9007s for almost a year now,now all i did was install relays to get more juice direct from the battery,I do run the dims with the brites also and run the fogs all the time,so check it out-http://www.candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/9004_9007.pdf
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 04:36 PM
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Rockyhud - right now, sumit racing has the kit you mentioned on sale for $21. It is part # sum-890030.

It made the headlights noticeably brighter for 15 minutes of work.




Now....how did you wire the low beams to come on with the high beams ??????? I'd rather do that myself than spend 90 bucks on a box to do it.
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 04:56 PM
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I cut the three wires on each lite socket, I used 1 relay for the dims and tapped into the +wire on the park lites to trigger it, on the brites i used the the ground feed from the wireing harness (one of the three was a ground) to trigger the brite relay,that way when you put the light switch on the dims are are on and the dimmer/brite switch on the steering coloum makes the brites go off and on,dims are on all the time.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 12:08 PM
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trick to enable low & high beams at same time

Thanks for the info guys - very helpful.

TRCM, here's the info I used to enable low & high beams on at the same time. In all fairness I got this info from doing a search here on this topic and copied the info into a Word document that I could refer to later. This article mentioned applying the mod to a newer truck but the wire colors are/were the same for my 97. The only difference I found was there being only one light green with white stripe wire in my wire bundle, otherwise I did exactly as described. Also the article doesn't mention it but get wire tap connectors sized for 14-16 gage wire as the wires you'll be dealing with are 16 gage. Enjoy the extra light!

Steve

[from DTR topic on enabling low & high beams]
Possibly a new solution to an old problem I wanted to have my low beam lights to stay on when switching to high beams. I was poised with pen in hand getting ready to write a check for a Brite Box. Then I remembered that I was an electrical engineer and should be able to do this myself. I located the schematic for the lighting circuit in the manual and found out how it works. A simple procedure will eliminate the need for the Brite Box. There are those who will say that the light switch can't handle the current of both filaments being on at the same time. I have a 2002 so my switch maybe different than earlier years. I did, however, perform this modification to a friend's 2001 without any problems at all. To do the mod, remove the panel below the steering column. This will expose a bundle of wires coming from the multifunction switch as well as the horn, cruise control, etc. The wires of interest on my 2002 as well as my friend's 2001 are light green and violet with a white stripe. There are two light green wires. Make sure of the one you need before doing the mod. I used a piercing circuit tester light and found the correct light green wire by grounding the tester and piercing each light green wire and watching which wire caused the tester light to go on and off when the light switch was turned on and off. Having located the correct wires, I used a wire tap connector to short these two wires together. The wire tap is designed to allow you to connect a new wire to an existing circuit. In other words, one side of the tap goes all the way through and the other dead ends. Take a knife and cut the dead end plastic out so that both wires can go all the way through. Place both the light green wire and the violet with white stripe wire in the tap and press it home with pliers. Be careful not to short the pliers to ground while doing this. I used a dab of dielectric grease in the tap just to be safe from corrosion later on. What this mod does is simply short across the low beam disconnect contacts of the multifunction switch. This will make the low beam filaments light as long as the light switch is turned on with the multifunction switch in either high or low beam position. I can now see the road better and it cost me $0.11 instead of $95.00. Questions are welcome.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 12:55 PM
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Smile

Nice thread!!!!! brighter is better!
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 03:38 PM
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I used the above fix under the steering column before i installed relays,it worked real good BUT not quite as much as the relays do, juice straight from the batterys with 12 ga wire is were its at,unbelievable the diference.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 04:41 PM
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You guys making the low beams and high beams come on together is all fine and dandy, but I find that the biggest problem is that the low beams just aren't bright enough. And I wouldn't want to instead use the high beams all the time (or high+low), so there needs to be a fix to soup up the low beams a bit. Other than the Sport Headlight conversion, I think adding driving lights is the best bet.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by AggiePhil
You guys making the low beams and high beams come on together is all fine and dandy, but I find that the biggest problem is that the low beams just aren't bright enough. And I wouldn't want to instead use the high beams all the time (or high+low), so there needs to be a fix to soup up the low beams a bit. Other than the Sport Headlight conversion, I think adding driving lights is the best bet.
I agree thats why i went with the 9007=55/65 watt as opposed to 9004=45/65,world of difference but as i said above read the link i posted on the bulbs and come to your own conclusion.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 07:03 PM
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Not sure that I totally understand. With this mod when you turn the headlights on both low/high beams or on all the time? Any problems with lights being too bright at night for others? I would like to be able to use low beams only but have them both come on when I flip on the brights.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Tayloe08
Not sure that I totally understand. With this mod when you turn the headlights on both low/high beams or on all the time? Any problems with lights being too bright at night for others? I would like to be able to use low beams only but have them both come on when I flip on the brights.
Thats the way it works,when on dim, its dim only,thier on all the time,when you switch to brites the dims stay on,when you switch to dims the brites go out and dims are still on.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 09:18 PM
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I've had the 9004 bulbs in 80/100w for 3 years now, much brighter than the standard 55/65w, and almost same price as standard, why not just swap out? You could also tap into your fog light circuit on power distribution box and put jumper wire on relay, so driving lights also stay on when brights are on(I did this mod to mine and it helps give even more light).
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