Briter lites
11-03-2005, 03:33 PM
#31
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I got my CTD new in '99 and the lights have always s*cked. I have the wiring kit coming and will do the hig/low beam thing. Here is an excellent website for the straight dope on lighting issues:http://www.danielsternlighting.com/
11-03-2005, 04:00 PM
#32
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Sorry guys haven't been on for a few days to respond. The bulbs are Jetco 9004 Halogen 100w/80w Rating Automotive application clear bulbs, and I bought them at an International truck dealer(used to work there), but any heavy truck or NAPA type stores should carry them.
The low beams(80w) are quite a bit brighter than stock 55watt, but do not seem to bother oncoming traffic. I did re-adjust them(after installing) a little to light road better down, out, and to the sides. I run low beam and driving lights on all the time, and flip on hi-beams WITH driving lights on also on hiway, and it's QUITE bright.
This time of year it's dark in the a.m. at work time, and almost dark now at home time
. I'm out doing stuff almost every night, and have lights on, and only had 1 bulb(on low beam burn out) in 3 years. If you are moving when headlights are on it is a non-issue, if you stop for EXTENDED period of time just shut off lights(DRL's on won't hurt). Never had plastic melt because of doing this, but it probably could if airflow is not there to cool off lens and bulb.
The biggest reason bulbs burnout ESPECIALLY HALOGEN, is NOT CLEANING OFF THE GLASS BULB. You must clean them off with glass cleaner, as oil on your hands will cause the gas inside bulb to overheat, causing filament to burn out in a short timeframe. Hope this answers all of the questions.
The low beams(80w) are quite a bit brighter than stock 55watt, but do not seem to bother oncoming traffic. I did re-adjust them(after installing) a little to light road better down, out, and to the sides. I run low beam and driving lights on all the time, and flip on hi-beams WITH driving lights on also on hiway, and it's QUITE bright.
This time of year it's dark in the a.m. at work time, and almost dark now at home time
. I'm out doing stuff almost every night, and have lights on, and only had 1 bulb(on low beam burn out) in 3 years. If you are moving when headlights are on it is a non-issue, if you stop for EXTENDED period of time just shut off lights(DRL's on won't hurt). Never had plastic melt because of doing this, but it probably could if airflow is not there to cool off lens and bulb.The biggest reason bulbs burnout ESPECIALLY HALOGEN, is NOT CLEANING OFF THE GLASS BULB. You must clean them off with glass cleaner, as oil on your hands will cause the gas inside bulb to overheat, causing filament to burn out in a short timeframe. Hope this answers all of the questions.
11-03-2005, 04:03 PM
#33
Chapter President
Originally Posted by slayerfish
I got my CTD new in '99 and the lights have always s*cked. I have the wiring kit coming and will do the hig/low beam thing. Here is an excellent website for the straight dope on lighting issues:http://www.danielsternlighting.com/
11-03-2005, 04:07 PM
#34
Chapter President
Originally Posted by TORQUE
Sorry guys haven't been on for a few days to respond. The bulbs are Jetco 9004 Halogen 100w/80w Rating Automotive application clear bulbs, and I bought them at an International truck dealer(used to work there), but any heavy truck or NAPA type stores should carry them.
The low beams(80w) are quite a bit brighter than stock 55watt, but do not seem to bother oncoming traffic. I did re-adjust them(after installing) a little to light road better down, out, and to the sides. I run low beam and driving lights on all the time, and flip on hi-beams WITH driving lights on also on hiway, and it's QUITE bright.
This time of year it's dark in the a.m. at work time, and almost dark now at home time . I'm out doing stuff almost every night, and have lights on, and only had 1 bulb(on low beam burn out) in 3 years. If you are moving when headlights are on it is a non-issue, if you stop for EXTENDED period of time just shut off lights(DRL's on won't hurt). Never had plastic melt because of doing this, but it probably could if airflow is not there to cool off lens and bulb.
The biggest reason bulbs burnout ESPECIALLY HALOGEN, is NOT CLEANING OFF THE GLASS BULB. You must clean them off with glass cleaner, as oil on your hands will cause the gas inside bulb to overheat, causing filament to burn out in a short timeframe. Hope this answers all of the questions.
The low beams(80w) are quite a bit brighter than stock 55watt, but do not seem to bother oncoming traffic. I did re-adjust them(after installing) a little to light road better down, out, and to the sides. I run low beam and driving lights on all the time, and flip on hi-beams WITH driving lights on also on hiway, and it's QUITE bright.
This time of year it's dark in the a.m. at work time, and almost dark now at home time
. I'm out doing stuff almost every night, and have lights on, and only had 1 bulb(on low beam burn out) in 3 years. If you are moving when headlights are on it is a non-issue, if you stop for EXTENDED period of time just shut off lights(DRL's on won't hurt). Never had plastic melt because of doing this, but it probably could if airflow is not there to cool off lens and bulb.The biggest reason bulbs burnout ESPECIALLY HALOGEN, is NOT CLEANING OFF THE GLASS BULB. You must clean them off with glass cleaner, as oil on your hands will cause the gas inside bulb to overheat, causing filament to burn out in a short timeframe. Hope this answers all of the questions.
11-03-2005, 04:38 PM
#35
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I might looking to getting me a set of those 80/100W bulbs.
Currently I'm running a set of aircraft landing lights 100W and a second set of driving lights 55W. I've got them wired so one one or the other is on. You can't select both. As for the 100w aircraft lights... Boy they light up a good 1/4 to a 1/3 of mile! Very bright!
I will not use my 100w aircraft landing lights in town or when traffic is heavy on the road. If the highway is empty (which it normally is..) I flip on the 100w aircraft's and boy it will wash out the stock headlights.
Just another idea to toss out there...
Currently I'm running a set of aircraft landing lights 100W and a second set of driving lights 55W. I've got them wired so one one or the other is on. You can't select both. As for the 100w aircraft lights... Boy they light up a good 1/4 to a 1/3 of mile! Very bright!
I will not use my 100w aircraft landing lights in town or when traffic is heavy on the road. If the highway is empty (which it normally is..) I flip on the 100w aircraft's and boy it will wash out the stock headlights.
Just another idea to toss out there...
11-03-2005, 05:36 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by TORQUE
Sorry guys haven't been on for a few days to respond. The bulbs are Jetco 9004 Halogen 100w/80w Rating Automotive application clear bulbs, and I bought them at an International truck dealer(used to work there), but any heavy truck or NAPA type stores should carry them.
The low beams(80w) are quite a bit brighter than stock 55watt, but do not seem to bother oncoming traffic. I did re-adjust them(after installing) a little to light road better down, out, and to the sides. I run low beam and driving lights on all the time, and flip on hi-beams WITH driving lights on also on hiway, and it's QUITE bright.
This time of year it's dark in the a.m. at work time, and almost dark now at home time . I'm out doing stuff almost every night, and have lights on, and only had 1 bulb(on low beam burn out) in 3 years. If you are moving when headlights are on it is a non-issue, if you stop for EXTENDED period of time just shut off lights(DRL's on won't hurt). Never had plastic melt because of doing this, but it probably could if airflow is not there to cool off lens and bulb.
The biggest reason bulbs burnout ESPECIALLY HALOGEN, is NOT CLEANING OFF THE GLASS BULB. You must clean them off with glass cleaner, as oil on your hands will cause the gas inside bulb to overheat, causing filament to burn out in a short timeframe. Hope this answers all of the questions.
The low beams(80w) are quite a bit brighter than stock 55watt, but do not seem to bother oncoming traffic. I did re-adjust them(after installing) a little to light road better down, out, and to the sides. I run low beam and driving lights on all the time, and flip on hi-beams WITH driving lights on also on hiway, and it's QUITE bright.
This time of year it's dark in the a.m. at work time, and almost dark now at home time
. I'm out doing stuff almost every night, and have lights on, and only had 1 bulb(on low beam burn out) in 3 years. If you are moving when headlights are on it is a non-issue, if you stop for EXTENDED period of time just shut off lights(DRL's on won't hurt). Never had plastic melt because of doing this, but it probably could if airflow is not there to cool off lens and bulb.The biggest reason bulbs burnout ESPECIALLY HALOGEN, is NOT CLEANING OFF THE GLASS BULB. You must clean them off with glass cleaner, as oil on your hands will cause the gas inside bulb to overheat, causing filament to burn out in a short timeframe. Hope this answers all of the questions.
11-03-2005, 05:44 PM
#38
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You can make your dims and brights be on at the same time by turning the brights on, then pulling the handle again (as if you're going to turn the dims back on), but holding it back instead of letting it go.
IMO though, this doesn't really help much. Like I've stated before, the low beams are the real culprit, not the high beams.
IMO though, this doesn't really help much. Like I've stated before, the low beams are the real culprit, not the high beams.
11-03-2005, 06:02 PM
#39
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It is all original OEM wiring, and utilizing same relays already put in from the factory for headlight and foglight circuits in power distribution box(under hood). I haven't modified anything, except changed out to 80/100w bulbs, and removed foglight relay and added jumper wire(with fuse). 
11-03-2005, 06:18 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by TORQUE
It is all original OEM wiring, and utilizing same relays already put in from the factory for headlight and foglight circuits in power distribution box(under hood). I haven't modified anything, except changed out to 80/100w bulbs, and removed foglight relay and added jumper wire(with fuse).
11-03-2005, 07:16 PM
#42
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The reason that i asked was that there seems to be 80/100 that are acually 45/65s and say in the fine print on the box "equivalent to 100" so am wondering if they are "true" 80/100s.
11-03-2005, 09:50 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by slayerfish
I got my CTD new in '99 and the lights have always s*cked.
http://www.blackclouddiesel.com/Dodge/lighting.htm
11-07-2005, 10:07 AM
#45
Chapter President
Originally Posted by TORQUE
Why where have you seen those? I have never come across any such lights as you say. Maybe you should shop at a better store. 
Real fact is, they are no brighter than the higher quality GE or Sylvania bulbs IMHO... You have to actually get the 80/100 to get 80/100 lite.
CTD NUT
Thanks for the tip.. I forgot about the DRL's.. Mine are unhooked so it shouldn't matter, but another guy I was talking to would still have the DRL's active.
I might get the kit anyway since I don't run DRL's..