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Battery Cable replacement

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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 01:06 PM
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Question Battery Cable replacement

I'm finally going to have to make the jump and go with Optima red tops. Just too much corrosion and I'm tired of fighting it. It had already trashed the mounting brackets and all associated hardware when I bought the truck last year.

Question is on cable replacement. The stock cables/clamps are on their last legs due to corrosion and overtorqueing/deforming. Seen talk of going with marine quality cables, welding cables, as well as stock. What is the best yet least expensive route to go, yet have quality cables and connectors? Already dumped quite a bit of $$$ in repairing the neglect/shortcuts from the PO so the wife is starting to raise an eyebrow at my cost expenditures. Trying to keep costs down but do quality repairs.

Thanks!
Dave
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 09:08 PM
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When you switch to Optimas you'll have to "lenghten" the passenger side by relocating the last wire clamp. No big deal.

I would just put new battery clamps on them and call it good. If that don't work and the cables are toast I would just take them into a parts store and they can match them up. Its the corrosion that killed them, not the use. We all have a tendensy to overkill a project trying to re-engineer it. This time just use a better battery and no corrosion.

Take the wife out to dinner and tell her she was right!
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 10:01 PM
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I replaced all my cables and it was a bit of work.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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Most battery corrosion is caused by loose clamps, an overactive charging system, or a weak battery. Loose clamps is the biggest issue which usually forces overcharging which kills the battery.

I cut my old battery clamps off and crimped lug terminals on the existing cables. I purchased military style battery clamps from local NAPA store to complete the connection.

Corrosion halted.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 10:23 PM
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cables

The grounds look like they might be easier to replace than the positive cables. My passenger ground clamp is cracked where the bolt goes through, so that needs replacing for certain. I'm afraid if I cut & crimp, the cables will be too short. The positive on the driver's side is already stretched taut. I guess I'll have to drop the optimas in and see what needs lengthening/changing. Thanks!

The wife got frozen custard tonight. Her favorite dessert!
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 10:38 PM
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I have found factory replacements to be the least troublesome of all cable replacement options. Lots more money, but less headache.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ride_a_hd
The wife got frozen custard tonight. Her favorite dessert!
You da man!
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Fueling around
Most battery corrosion is caused by loose clamps, an overactive charging system, or a weak battery. Loose clamps is the biggest issue which usually forces overcharging which kills the battery.

I cut my old battery clamps off and crimped lug terminals on the existing cables. I purchased military style battery clamps from local NAPA store to complete the connection.

Corrosion halted.
I agree to an extent, but batteries "leaking" voltage due to the top being wet from charging / discharging is the main cause. Gell cell batteries (Optimas) solve it for good. AND they are 40 pounds lighter. The damaged caused by leaking / corrosion is WELL worth the price paid for a battery the will not leak.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 03:09 PM
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Cool Agree!

Originally Posted by Geico266
I agree to an extent, but batteries "leaking" voltage due to the top being wet from charging / discharging is the main cause. Gell cell batteries (Optimas) solve it for good. AND they are 40 pounds lighter. The damaged caused by leaking / corrosion is WELL worth the price paid for a battery the will not leak.
I think I definitely agree. Now to find the best price on Optimas and figure out the cable replacement. May just go with OEM for the ease and to make sure I have everything I need vice trying to piece it together...

Thanks all!
Dave
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Geico266
I agree to an extent, but batteries "leaking" voltage due to the top being wet from charging / discharging is the main cause. Gell cell batteries (Optimas) solve it for good. AND they are 40 pounds lighter. The damaged caused by leaking / corrosion is WELL worth the price paid for a battery the will not leak.
The wet top usually comes from the overactive charging problem. I've seen it started by poor clamps the most often. The new generation of low maintenance batteries do a much better job of controlling the water boil off.
Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries such as Optima took it one step better.

I picked up one very cheap from Summit Racing for the mommy van. There too, a weak clamp is starting to corode a touch.

I would run Optima in my truck if not for my Espar. Yes, the batteries perform well, but without a 140 minute reserve (as my Diehards) I cannot take the chance.

Back to the cable issue. If you have access to lugs & a crimper, I strongly recommend that route. Total cost less than $20 and a hour of my time.

-John
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 04:21 AM
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Welding cable is good,found some at the tractor supply store (tsc). I'm sure farm and fleet have them as well as NAPA. I found it easier to deal with if you "tin" the ends with solder (the insulation is removed and the ends are heated, and solder is melted into each end at about a depth of an inch)

As far as clamps, infidel has provided a link in the past to a great online resource for high quality, mil spec, bullet proof, space age, super duper unobtainum types. Sorry don't have the link. Maybe he will chime in or, do a search on some of his posts from last winter. Kevin
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 07:17 AM
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Link??

How about this?:

http://www.pullpal.com/terminals/terminals.html

or this:

http://www.electerm.com/battery.html

or these guys:

http://www.wranglernw.com/

I used 2/0 welding cable and crimp on ring terminals combined with the military style clamps.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kd460
... a great ... resource for high quality, mil spec, bullet proof, space age, super duper unobtainum types. Sorry don't have the link. Maybe he will chime in or, do a search on some of his posts from last winter. Kevin
Originally Posted by Dr Evil
Link??
...
or these guys:
http://www.wranglernw.com/
I got my military clamps from local NAPA store. They are the EXACT same clamps sold by Wrangler NW, but for less than 1/2 the $$. The only difference is the NAPA clamps come with regular steel bolts and the Wrangler clamps appear to use red, black & gold zinc treated hardware. A little NYK over steel bolts and all is the same.

They're in the Belden/NAPA book

P/N 728222 for neg post
P/N 728223 for pos post
both currently $3.99 each (at local NAPA store)

A bargain compared to Wrangler NW and no shipping

Paging through the Belden book I saw plenty of pre-fabricated cables, too.

-John
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 11:21 AM
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Thumbs up Thanks!

Thanks for all of the info! Much appreciated!
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Fueling around
I got my military clamps from local NAPA store. They are the EXACT same clamps sold by Wrangler NW, but for less than 1/2 the $$. The only difference is the NAPA clamps come with regular steel bolts and the Wrangler clamps appear to use red, black & gold zinc treated hardware. A little NYK over steel bolts and all is the same.
I had no choice...I live in the middle of nowhere and NAPAs way up here dont carry the same stock as Napas south of the border do. Plus ,the nearest NAPA is 2 hours away. Excellent info though. Thanks John.
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