Battery Cable replacement
I'm finally going to have to make the jump and go with Optima red tops. Just too much corrosion and I'm tired of fighting it. It had already trashed the mounting brackets and all associated hardware when I bought the truck last year.
Question is on cable replacement. The stock cables/clamps are on their last legs due to corrosion and overtorqueing/deforming. Seen talk of going with marine quality cables, welding cables, as well as stock. What is the best yet least expensive route to go, yet have quality cables and connectors? Already dumped quite a bit of $$$ in repairing the neglect/shortcuts from the PO so the wife is starting to raise an eyebrow at my cost expenditures.
Trying to keep costs down but do quality repairs.
Thanks!
Dave
Question is on cable replacement. The stock cables/clamps are on their last legs due to corrosion and overtorqueing/deforming. Seen talk of going with marine quality cables, welding cables, as well as stock. What is the best yet least expensive route to go, yet have quality cables and connectors? Already dumped quite a bit of $$$ in repairing the neglect/shortcuts from the PO so the wife is starting to raise an eyebrow at my cost expenditures.
Trying to keep costs down but do quality repairs.Thanks!
Dave
When you switch to Optimas you'll have to "lenghten" the passenger side by relocating the last wire clamp. No big deal.
I would just put new battery clamps on them and call it good. If that don't work and the cables are toast I would just take them into a parts store and they can match them up. Its the corrosion that killed them, not the use. We all have a tendensy to overkill a project trying to re-engineer it. This time just use a better battery and no corrosion.
Take the wife out to dinner and tell her she was right!
I would just put new battery clamps on them and call it good. If that don't work and the cables are toast I would just take them into a parts store and they can match them up. Its the corrosion that killed them, not the use. We all have a tendensy to overkill a project trying to re-engineer it. This time just use a better battery and no corrosion.
Take the wife out to dinner and tell her she was right!
Most battery corrosion is caused by loose clamps, an overactive charging system, or a weak battery. Loose clamps is the biggest issue which usually forces overcharging which kills the battery.
I cut my old battery clamps off and crimped lug terminals on the existing cables. I purchased military style battery clamps from local NAPA store to complete the connection.
Corrosion halted.
I cut my old battery clamps off and crimped lug terminals on the existing cables. I purchased military style battery clamps from local NAPA store to complete the connection.
Corrosion halted.
cables
The grounds look like they might be easier to replace than the positive cables. My passenger ground clamp is cracked where the bolt goes through, so that needs replacing for certain. I'm afraid if I cut & crimp, the cables will be too short. The positive on the driver's side is already stretched taut. I guess I'll have to drop the optimas in and see what needs lengthening/changing. Thanks!
The wife got frozen custard tonight. Her favorite dessert!
The wife got frozen custard tonight. Her favorite dessert!
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Originally Posted by Fueling around
Most battery corrosion is caused by loose clamps, an overactive charging system, or a weak battery. Loose clamps is the biggest issue which usually forces overcharging which kills the battery.
I cut my old battery clamps off and crimped lug terminals on the existing cables. I purchased military style battery clamps from local NAPA store to complete the connection.
Corrosion halted.
I cut my old battery clamps off and crimped lug terminals on the existing cables. I purchased military style battery clamps from local NAPA store to complete the connection.
Corrosion halted.
Originally Posted by Geico266
I agree to an extent, but batteries "leaking" voltage due to the top being wet from charging / discharging is the main cause. Gell cell batteries (Optimas) solve it for good. AND they are 40 pounds lighter. The damaged caused by leaking / corrosion is WELL worth the price paid for a battery the will not leak.
Thanks all!
Dave
Originally Posted by Geico266
I agree to an extent, but batteries "leaking" voltage due to the top being wet from charging / discharging is the main cause. Gell cell batteries (Optimas) solve it for good. AND they are 40 pounds lighter. The damaged caused by leaking / corrosion is WELL worth the price paid for a battery the will not leak.
Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries such as Optima took it one step better.
I picked up one very cheap from Summit Racing for the mommy van. There too, a weak clamp is starting to corode a touch.
I would run Optima in my truck if not for my Espar. Yes, the batteries perform well, but without a 140 minute reserve (as my Diehards) I cannot take the chance.
Back to the cable issue. If you have access to lugs & a crimper, I strongly recommend that route. Total cost less than $20 and a hour of my time.
-John
Welding cable is good,found some at the tractor supply store (tsc). I'm sure farm and fleet have them as well as NAPA. I found it easier to deal with if you "tin" the ends with solder (the insulation is removed and the ends are heated, and solder is melted into each end at about a depth of an inch)
As far as clamps, infidel has provided a link in the past to a great online resource for high quality, mil spec, bullet proof, space age, super duper unobtainum types. Sorry don't have the link. Maybe he will chime in or, do a search on some of his posts from last winter. Kevin
As far as clamps, infidel has provided a link in the past to a great online resource for high quality, mil spec, bullet proof, space age, super duper unobtainum types. Sorry don't have the link. Maybe he will chime in or, do a search on some of his posts from last winter. Kevin
Link??
How about this?:
http://www.pullpal.com/terminals/terminals.html
or this:
http://www.electerm.com/battery.html
or these guys:
http://www.wranglernw.com/
I used 2/0 welding cable and crimp on ring terminals combined with the military style clamps.
How about this?:
http://www.pullpal.com/terminals/terminals.html
or this:
http://www.electerm.com/battery.html
or these guys:
http://www.wranglernw.com/
I used 2/0 welding cable and crimp on ring terminals combined with the military style clamps.
Originally Posted by kd460
... a great ... resource for high quality, mil spec, bullet proof, space age, super duper unobtainum types. Sorry don't have the link. Maybe he will chime in or, do a search on some of his posts from last winter. Kevin
Originally Posted by Dr Evil
They're in the Belden/NAPA book
P/N 728222 for neg post
P/N 728223 for pos post
both currently $3.99 each (at local NAPA store)
A bargain compared to Wrangler NW and no shipping
Paging through the Belden book I saw plenty of pre-fabricated cables, too.
-John
Originally Posted by Fueling around
I got my military clamps from local NAPA store. They are the EXACT same clamps sold by Wrangler NW, but for less than 1/2 the $$. The only difference is the NAPA clamps come with regular steel bolts and the Wrangler clamps appear to use red, black & gold zinc treated hardware. A little NYK over steel bolts and all is the same.


