ok my abs lite has been on for a long while, had it diagnosed at a deisel shop and it is the abs computer, is there any way to replace it without spending 4800-1K at the dealer?

dealer said they won't do it without me paying them to rediagnose it and then pay for part, instal and flash

can I put in a good used one or does it have to be flashed?

 

My understanding is plug and play on the 1994-1998 12 valve..but I am not sure on a 1998.5 and newer. Might have to "flash" to reset PCM??

Will they flash the PCM after you install the ABS? Probably still want to charge diagnosis and flash huh...

 

the cummins shop i use can't get the flash programs for dodge just chevy,ford

 

check to see if the "rear abs break arm" is still connected to the rear breakes. There is a rod coming down by the driver side rear shock that attaches to a ball socket. When mine pops off the abs light comes on. Sorry I don't know the exact name of it but I believe it helps prevent rear wheel lock up.

 

I know the arm you are talkin bout but my dually is not equipped with it

 

I *think* the abs system does a self test every time you start, so no reflash is needed, and it's plug and play if you find the junkyard part. Early models like your's and mine I believe you can prompt the abs to flash the code on the dash by grounding the H pin in the obd2 port, but newer (not sure when the split is) require the sooper dooper chrysler reader to pull the codes.

However, the light may be on due to a bad sensor at the rear punkin or one of the unit bearings. There are a handful of things that could cause this problem other than the abs module itself.

 

the pump continuosly ran even with the truck off so I had to unplug the pump, had it diagnosed and there is a problem with the abs ecu
if i come across one cheap i may try it but if i rememberthe part cross over it has to be from a 2500/3500 diesel

 

Same thing happened to me a couple years ago (2001 4x4 short bed). ABS module died while I was driving down the highway and pump would run even with truck shut off. Had to pull the breaker under the hood to get it to quit. Dealer diagnosed it as a blown ABS module quoted me like $1100 for the part and 30 minutes of labor. Took me a while, but I found a guy you can ship it to and he charges like $150 to replace any bad capacitors, resisters, etc... and ships it back to you. I had that done, plugged it back in and perfect ever since. Just do a google search for "Module Master" and it's the first link.

 

that would be great, mine died 2 winters ago when we had several bad snow storms and the abs worked great till it died, this dualy definitly needs abs as the truck has spun out on me in the rain

 

Kelsey Hayes put cheepo laymo relays in the module. Module Master upgrades to a heavier duty relay to prevent another failure. I sent mine in to them to fix the abs motor constant run issue. Pretty quick turn around, and you wind up with a part better than stock.

The other way to deal with the constant run pump is to simply pull the plug that goes into the pump motor from the module.

If I understand right, there was a split somewhere around '01 where earlier models you can ground the "H" pin in the obd port to get it to flash you the brake code, but later models REQUIRE the danged dealer reader to get codes out. Got a big middle finger for Chrysler for that.

 

I have had the motor unpluged for 2 years and sent off the module last week, i definitly want working abs on this truck

 

GREAT NEWS got the module back today, srewed it back on and plugged everything in, no more running pump, no more idiot lites staying on, guess the real test will be next time it rains, super fast turn around well packaged and sealed in a static proof electronics part bag

I will definitly be using module master again to fix the gauges on dads avalanche

 

I was also very happy with Module Masters. Glad to hear it worked out for you.

~Topper

 

I went nuts with my ABS for almost two yrs. Pump wasn't running but the ABS light wouldn't go off and the ABS was disabled. I replaced everything in the system with no help. It's pretty scary when you stomp the brakes and the back wheels lock up but the truck keeps going forward
I finally fixed it with a cheap switch. After spending all the money on pumps, junk yard comps, rebuilds and proportioning valves it turned out to be the brake LIGHT switch under the dash. The connections were just bad enough to fool the comp into thinking the brakes were always on but not bad enough to effect the brake light operation that would have been caught at the yrly inspections.
I think with shipping the switch was $20 and it took about 5 minutes to reach behind the brake pedal and pop off the old one and put in the new.