mattn124

Hello;

I'm planning on some front end work on my truck in the near future. Looking for input from anybody who has used MOOG control arms on a truck like mine.

I will also be replacing the springs and shocks at this time.

My control arms do not look all that bad, but at 320,xxx miles I just cant believe they are not worn out somewhat.

I've had good luck with MOOG parts in other applications, anybody ever used their control arms?

My local Dodge dealer can get me new-old-stock original parts for about $100 (for all 4 arms). I like the thought of factory-original parts since mine have lasted so long. However, I do also like that life-time warranty on the MOOG stuff.

Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

--Matt

Danderson

Get the Mopar's for that price. You got 320K out of the originals.

mattn124

I made a typo in my first post. Meant to say it is about $100 more for the ones from the dealer.

The MOOG parts are ~$72 for the Uppers and ~$82 for the lowers (each). Whereas the factory parts uppers are ~$110 and the lowers are about ~$130. ( I guess it is really more like $170 more)

Still might not be a bad idea to use factory original stuff, I agree it is impressive they lasted this long.

QUESTION: How do I know when they have gone bad?

Visually they don't look bad; some deterioration around the rubber that I can see, but I would expect that with this many miles on them.

I just figured they had to be worn out after this many miles, but maybe not?

All the rest of the front end has newer parts (or "lifetime" parts I'll also change at this same time).

Thanks for your input.

--Matt

Meat Man

I installed Moog bushings in original arms. I was pleased. I could not say the originals were actually causing an issue, but two were worn pretty good. My arms looked just fine after cleaned up.

SIXSLUG

Are you talking the bushings or the whole arm assembly?

Moog parts are good.....

u2slow

I would only pay extra for boxed arms.... not the u-channel stuff. FWIW, Jeep Liberties were recalled for boxed arms because the stock u-channel arms on the rear weren't adequate.

When the bolts are seized its a big job to cut out the arms piece by piece. Me and a buddy did that over christmas.

If you have anywhere close to 4" lift, you ought to get/build longer arms anyways.

mattn124

I was talking about buying the whole assemblies from MOOG or from a local Dodge dealer.

How tough was it to remove and re-install the bushings? I like the thought of using my factory arms, but am worried that the bushings have been in so long tey might not come out without damaging the arm.

mattn124

I don't have any lift at all, factory height.

You had to cut your arms out? Can you elaborate? I haven't really taken a close look at how these will come out. I imagined some issues with old and high-mileage bolts (even buying replacement bolts from dealer b4 I start the job). But how does cutting the arms help?

Not questioning your methods, just trying to learn.


THanks to everybody for the replies!

u2slow

I thought the pic said it all.

When the bolt is rusted solid to the inner sleeve of the bushing, you've got limited options.

Pressing and beating wasn't getting anywhere. It was bending and fatiguing the brackets.

Teeth were burning off sawzall blades due to the hardness of the bolt. Zip disc didn't have the reach to slice the bolt. We had the cut the majority of the arm off, and then destructively work away at the remaining metal with the zip disc, layer by layer, beating and prying the fragments apart, peeling out the rubber, and finally dicing up the bolt and sleeve till they fell out.

This is the third 2ndgen truck I've disassembled arms on. At least one bushing bolt has been seized on each truck - this last one it was both uppers on the frame end.

Copious amounts of thread-lube, never seize, etc, needs to used here for serviceability....much like the unit bearings in the knuckles.