OK, I'm new to this board, so I have saved you the aggony of my saga with my first CTD. I just bought this truck back on 1/13/07. It is a 98.5 2500 4x4 ext cab long bed; alll stock except for 265 Gyr Workhorse tires. I got it for $12,500 plus trade (they were asking $13,900).

If you want to skip straight to the problem, skip the next three paragraphs.

All the dealer did before putting it on the lot was fix a couple of oil leaks (front cover, trans, transfer case output). From the first day I test drove it, I told the dealer that the steering was loose and unresponsive and truck would end up in the other lane unexpectedly. They checked it out in their shop and said all was good. I drove it again and looked at it myself. After lots of reading on this site, I found that the track bar and drag link were bad. Took it back and they had the same mechanic look at it. He agreed that both parts were bad. They replaced them.

I went ahead and purchased on a verbal agreement. Finished paperwork and picked the truck up after repairs completed. Got the truck back on the road and steering still sucks. More reading here. I started looking at the steering column and PS box. Did not see anything at first. Then I noticed that if I moved the box input, I could see the sector shaft move from side to side. Also noted that the upper drag link was a little loose. Took it back, same mechanic test drove it and found that it might be the box. They kept it the next day to check out, and they replaced the box. Picked it up and still drove crappy.

I've drove it for three weeks to get used to it. Still drives poorly. I took it to an alignment shop. They said they would not align it until the upper drag link was replaced and I had the ball joints checked. I replaced the upper link myself and then took it back to the dealer to have the ball joints checked. They just called and said it is ready. Didn't find anything wrong, just drives like a diesel.

Here's the real problem.

The steering is less than "confidence inspiring". At any speed above 50 mph, you must constantly "drive" the truck. It will not just cruise. The driver must constantly make minor steering inputs to get the truck to go straight down the road. Truck drifts right, I correct left and then the truck is drifting left, so I have to correct back right. Doing this about every 50 - 100 yards gets old fast. Also, the steering will not "self center" when turning. If I make a sharp turn, the wheel will come back about 1 revolution and then stay turned. If I don't touch it, it will make small jumps towards center but never come close to going back. Also, after replacing the steering box, it requires considerably more force to move steering wheel (at all speeds).

Here's my take on the situation.
Problem: Ball joints are dry, not loose, just dry. I also noted that the lower drives BJ had been replaced at some time. It is greaseable, others aren't.

Dealership pretty much told me to quit complaining. More or less "That's as good as it gets." They have only replaced parts when I specifically told them they were bad. I guarntee that if I was the one spending the $$ then they would have a whole list of possible issues. One of them being $1000 worth of ball joints!

I've still got warranty for 1000 more miles or until April 13. Should I try getting a different dealer to look at it under warranty? I'm going to call Chrysler Warranty to see if that is even possible.

I think that due to my reading on this board and TSB's, I know more about the issues than the dealer is leading onto. I mention things and they act like I am speaking a foreign language.

Could anyone please offer me some advice, personal experince with the problem or with dealer's warranty, or just some encouragement.

Also is there any truth to "That's as good as it gets?" when it comes to steering.

Thanks for bearing with me.

Nathan Zeit

 

the poor "return to center" is probably just the adjustment on the steering gear. there is a jam nut and a set screw. loosen the jam nut, then loosen the set screw about 1/8 turn.

The "all over the road" syndrome is common when some front end parts are worn.

check...


Track bar

Ball joints

Tie rod ends

drag link

 

It gets better. Put a DSS steering bracket on the steering box and a Solid Steal 3rd gen Track bar kit on it. Get and alighment and if all else is in good shape It will drive better than a new one. I have it all on mine. Its not cheep $$ but its worth it. untill then do like TIMMY22 said. I'm almost glad that I had no warenty with any of my trucks so I didn't have to deal with a dealer and get mad about the servise. My 96 had 263K whan I bought it and my 92 had 365K, the 96 is a t 290K and the 92 is now over 500K. Only had to put a head gasket and a water pump and altenator on 92 origenal ouner never had to mess with the engine

 

Not to sound too negative but my 2001.5 sounds the same as you are saying and it did it when it was new. The first time I drove it I was in shock. I guess you somewhat get use to it but the moment you drive a small front driver with a rack up front hang on, and then when you get back in the Ram you think you had way too many cool ones!! Just my 2 cents..

 

Admins - Thanks for moving my LONG post to the correct location.

Replies - Thanks for your input. I picked up from the dealer today and dropped off at the alignment shop. Dealer did give me all the service documentation from when the truck was new. I found an entry back in 2004 when the original owner complained of loose steering. The dealer recommended new track bar and steering box. Funny huh?

I did find out one good thing. I got a new injection pump at 99,000. 122K on the ticker now.

More to come.

Thanks again,

Nathan

 

Nathan,

Where do you live? I'm sure that we have another member close to you that could get you pointed in the right direction before your warranty is up.

I will say this though.... the steering on these trucks even with new gearboxes is very sloppy. There are fixes for this, but like everything it will cost you.

 

yeah my 02 is the same way.

definately doesnt drive like a high performance FWD car

and those deep grooves from studded tires in the road dont help any either

 

Thanks guys, I live in Wamego, KS. That's close to Topeka and Manhattan.

I've been tempted to just walk up to other CTD owners and ask how theirs drives, but haven't.

Nathan

 

A good solid trackbar like a thuren or 3rd gen along with a DSS, some extra caster (theres specs in a post here someplace) and a 3.5 turn steering box instead of the stock 4.somethings on a truck with 4.10 gearing (I think this was setup for maneuvering trailers) and you should be much better off. Stock truck is pretty bad, Im amazed I never got pulled over on suspicion of DUI.
If you get a violent wheel shimmy on the highway after hitting a bump, check that trackbar.
Oh yeah.. and your transmission is likely going to implode in a year or two.. look into an upgrade.

 

Ditto on my '01. It's a truck. And yup, I have a hard time getting used to driving the car after driving the truck for awhile.

 

My 02' is like that as well. You hit places in the highway where they have done a fine patch job and I'll drift around. I had my tires aired up to around 80psi when I went to south Georgia a few weeks ago and I was always correcting, little here, little there. But after a year I'm used to it and the front end it tight. I found running lower air pressure, maybe around 60psi helps a lot and smooths out the ride a bit. I try to run them around 60-65psi and have no irregular tire wear to speak of.

 

I tell you what, the dealer did not replace anything, they just patched it.

The steering box was sloppy and never replaced, they just tightened the nut, I bet the trackbar was not replaced and so others.

This is my 3rd CTD, they are not great with steering (well, try Fords...) but not 1/2 as bad as they describe it, my current 1996 has just got a new trackbar (from Advance Auto parts with lifetime warranty) and drives down the road like a Caddy, I just use 2 fingers to hold the wheel (I know, not safe.... but I have to give an example) and she goes as straight as it could go.

At this point you have 2 choices, return the truck (it will be a heck of a fight to get your money back), or have it fixed right, but you stay there while they do it, even if you have to take a vacation day off your schedule.

My other cars are BMWs, and if you think you can get same response as them, you are in for a big surprise, the larger (and taller) the tires the worse it gets.

You have a 3/4 ton diesel truck, you have to compromise a little but not bend over completely....

 

10 yr old truck w/t 122k on it..... I just can't believe that someone would trade in a truck in such poor condition....the NERVE of some people.

 

FINALLY...It is fixed. It is now exactly like I expected it to be and what I was looking for when I started taking it to the original dealer.

Recap of everything that was done:
1. Track Bar - replaced by dealer
2. Lower 1/2 of drag link - replaced by dealer
3. Tightened steering box - me
4. Replaced steering box (reman) - dealer
5. Replaced upper draglink TRE - me
6. Alignment - found one side out of spec on caster (set at 3.2 now)
7. Flushed orignal steering fluid and replaced with ATF 4 - dealer #2
8. Replaced steering box (reman) - dealer #2. Thought first one was defective.

Finally this thing drive down the road like a 3/4 ton truck not a derailed freight train. It even got the wife's approval. Now for some new tires; I think that will cure the vibration..and then the trailer, brake controller, gooseneck hitch...and power parts At least I feel better about spending some $$ on this thing now.

Thanks for the help and advice.

Nathan

 

One other thing to check... the intermediate steering shaft. Mine was replaced under warranty at 32,000 miles by the dealer. THEY found it out of spec. It helped. The part is about $140 or so at the dealer.

Note: Don't get the borgeson. They are more money and do no better. Also, they do NOT stand behind their parts and have crappy CS. My dad put one in his 01.5 a couple years ago and it was so stiff he could feel more bumps in the road because the thing never slid in and out, even after greasing it multiple times. It was just too darn tight. He replaced with the OEM and now it's more comfortable.

Steve