mymaur

Here is one for you guys. My 95 4x4 goes through front pads at the rate of a set every 10K or 12K miles. I have tried Bendix Fleet pads and they will go 15K but are pretty tough on the rotor. Truck sees about 22K miles a year and approx 75% of this is in town. I realize town miles are tougher on brakes, but am I the lone ranger on this or is this fairly typical.<br><br>We have been using Rams with CTD for about 10 years, but this is the only 4x4 I have and it is also the only one that I have had this problem with. :'(

59Dsul

Are the passenger and driver sides wearing fast, or does one wear faster than the other?

mymaur

Both sides wear equally. Brakes work very well. Never had any of the pulling problems that seem to plaque these trucks.

59Dsul

How are the rear brakes? Have you checked to be sure they're working properly, it seems like I've heard of the rear brakes not doing their job on some rigs.

oldred97

If you do a lot of towing and hauling I suggest getting an e-brake. With my exhaust brake I hardly ever step on the pedal to use the service brakes. In fact the only time I do so is when I am coming to a complete stop and even then I don't have to brake hard. <br>Also did you check the lines. One of them may be cracked and acting like a check valve and holding just a little pressure on your brakes causing them to be applied just enough to wear on them all the time but not enough to feel that they are slowing you down.

mymaur

Rear brakes seem to work fine. But I'll pull those rims off and double check. This truck is never used for towing. I guess it could be a problem with the rears. The brakes seem to do their job and when I compare it with my other 95, also a CTD, Braking seems to be the same

Dieseldude4x4

The front pads on my 89 went over 120000 miles, and the only reason I replaced them then was because the dust boot on the caliper got a hole in it and the left brake hung up after a while. The front pads on my 95 went clear out to the backing plates at 35000 and had to have the rotors turned. The pads on the 95 were about half the size of the ones on the 89 though. Both were automatics. My 99 now has 115000 on it and the original front pads are still like brand new and the rear shoes are still well over half.

Stamey

I have heard of some trucks eating pads. My 99 ate the pads when I first got it, mostly while towing. I put higher quality pads on it (Performance Friction) and have been very happy with the wear/stopping power. As was said, the rear brakes tend to get out of adjustment and then the fronts are doing even more work. I have been fortunate in that area. When I think about it I just back up and stop rapidly a few times in a parking lot somewhere and the adjusters do their job. Others have said that their adjusters seized so the brakes did not adjust automatically.<br>Another possible issue, which usually only happens on one side, so should not apply in your case, is the brake hose collapses inside. This causes the brakes not to release fully, affecting pad life and fuel mileage. To test, jack it up, spin one of the fronts, hit the brake hard and spin it again after releasing. If the wheel has more resistance, loosen the brake line at the caliper and if the wheel frees up immediately, you probably have a brake hose problem.<br>I have read another post here where someone is using ceramic pads from Napa (about 81 bucks), but I do not know how they affect the rotor.<br>There are TSBs on brake problems at DodgeRam.org.<br><br>Chris<br>

mymaur

I'm going to check all the above. I'll check the rears, check front hoses and try some performance friction pads. We shall see. Thanks for the feedback. ;D

TX Ram

My 98 has over 140k on the orignal pads :knock on wood:

athompson

I'm not sure how much of this will apply, but I had the same problem with last truck (96 Chevy K1500). I had the truck in for service and had the front brakes replaced. By the time they had 3000 miles on them, I needed them (with severe duty pads) and the rotors replaced. Since it was suspected that the calipers were not releasing properly, they were replaced as well. Even the severe duty pads only lasted 4000 miles. The problem ended up being the rear brakes weren't activating or releasing properly. Once this was resolved the be front brakes lasted just fine.

Stamey

[quote author=athompson link=board=5;threadid=8660;start=0#84107 date=1040682658]<br>The problem ended up being the rear brakes weren't activating or releasing properly. Once this was resolved the be front brakes lasted just fine.<br>[/quote]<br><br>I can believe that. My first car, a Chevette, had the proportioning valve go bad and caused the pedal to always go to the floor, but the car still stopped.<br><br>Chris

GScott

I have no complaints about pad wear, upgraded to Bendix Fleet pads - 99' QC 4x4, but how about the pads squealing with &quot;soft&quot; stops? Really anoying as it takes away from the &quot;music.&quot; Has anyone a cure for this? Had rotors turned and balanced with last pad replacement.

pappyman

My trucks not a 4X4 but it would eat pads every 6-7k...then I put on a set of ceramic pads and new rotors and rebuild my rear brakes (adjuster was frozen)....so far 12000 miles the brakes still look good and work great

Stamey

[quote author=GScott link=board=5;threadid=8660;start=0#86594 date=1041354939]<br>I have no complaints about pad wear, upgraded to Bendix Fleet pads - 99' QC 4x4, but how about the pads squealing with &quot;soft&quot; stops? Really anoying as it takes away from the &quot;music.&quot; Has anyone a cure for this? Had rotors turned and balanced with last pad replacement.<br>[/quote]<br><br>That noise is usually caused by the pad jumping back and forth inside the caliper rapidly, called chatter. There is usually a clip that goes in there to keep tension on the pad and stop the squeal. If you can't get those, they also have a goo you can put on the back of the pads that should stop it. It used to only come with a set of pads but I believe you can buy it alone now.<br><br>Chris