I have a 1998 3500 cab and chassis, 4x2. Torque specs are different for ball joints between the 216 and 248, so I'm trying to figure out if my truck has a 216 or 248 fbi. Thanks.

 

fbi?????????????????

 

I think it stands for front beam iron, might be wrong and then there's RBI for the rear. This is how the factory service manual labels them, and like I said there's 2 different torque specs for ball joints depending on which one you have. But since my pickup is a cab and chassis 4x2, it just has the solid tube and no identification tag that I'm aware of.

 

248 is the 60 under ours, the 216 is the 44 under the half tons. I "think" the number is the metric size designation of something......... It would have been too simple for Dodge just to call them a 60 or a 44 like the rest of the world.

 

since yours is a 2wd .you don't have either ....but here are the torque specs

 

^ I think that chart's specs are for the IFS 2wd suspension.

The 2wd i-beam suspension should use the same balljoints and torque specs as the Dana 60 front axle.

248 and 216 refers to the front axle ring gear diameter in millimeters. I've seen 229 (Dana 50) and 248 (Dana 60) marked on Ford Dana front axles from 99-up.

 

Okay, so like patdaly was saying to dana 60 is the axle used for 4x4 pickups and 4x2 cab and chassis since it's pretty much the same thing except solid tube, and the 216 is for the IFS?

 

The Dana 60 front is inherently 4x4. My understanding is the 2wd beam axle shares the same outer end forgings (sometimes called inner C's), knuckles, bearings, and brakes as the 4wd axle.

216mm is the diameter of the ring gear on a Dana 44 front axle (i.e. 1500 Ram). A 2wd has no such thing.

 

Okay, gotcha. So I should just use torque specs for the 248/dana 60?

 

I would check to see if the balljoint is the same part number on the Dana 60... if so, that's the spec I'd use.

 

Good idea, thanks guys.

 

i think you had better take it to a dealer if you are worried about torque specs
i changed all ball joints on my truck years ago without the use of a torque wrench or chart.....the rule is "tighten all fasteners in a manner consistent with good workmanship"!

 

Well I'm completely competent in doing the repair myself. Doesn't take that much longer to do the job with what I would call "good workmanship" and torque it to the specified torque, especially when I have a factory service manual sitting right in front of me. Thanks for your concern though.

 

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