1996 vs 1998 frame
#1
1996 vs 1998 frame
I have a 1996 ram 2500 reg cab long bed 4x4 with nv4500. Living in the northern climates of northeast ny i want to prevent and eliminate rust. Im looking at a doner frame from a 1998 ram 2500 reg cab 4x4 cummins. I want to clean the frame and have it hot dipped galvanized and then swap it into my 1996. my question is, are these frames the same? will the 98 frame work in my 96? thanks
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I have a 1996 ram 2500 reg cab long bed 4x4 with nv4500. Living in the northern climates of northeast ny i want to prevent and eliminate rust. Im looking at a doner frame from a 1998 ram 2500 reg cab 4x4 cummins. I want to clean the frame and have it hot dipped galvanized and then swap it into my 1996. my question is, are these frames the same? will the 98 frame work in my 96? thanks
Well, if yours is going bad on the 96, I presume the 98 should fit since it's the same generation, but someone else more informed will no doubt chime in. Good luck with your project!
#3
im just looking to build a truck thats rust proof. my frame on my 96 is in excellent shape (still has factory paint) but i want it to stay that way. i wanted to have the 98 frame hot dipped galvanized and swap it in so i wouldnt have to worry about the frame rusting little by little every winter or from driving in the rain. i want my truck to last forever.
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If your '96 frame still has the factory paint on it, after 14 years, it sounds like it has a long way to go till becoming completely rotten. I personally wouldn't get another frame just yet, as you may not need it.
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I would echo what Tate has said. And though it's admirable to want your truck to last forever, sometimes sadly other things occur that prevent that from happening, no matter what we do (tornadoes, floods, accidents, etc.). I've known quite a few guys in my Land-Rover days who went through the trouble of importing and installing a galvanized frame in their truck, only to have the truck written off in an accident, or being forced to sell for whatever reason.
Also, from what I have heard, hot-dip galvanizing sometimes introduces other issues (holes plugged by the dip for ex).
The other reality (for me in the snow/salt belt anyway) is that often the rest of the truck will rust away before the frame does. Depends where you live and what climate the truck will see.
Anyway, good luck in your decision, and maybe you WILL end up building a lifetime truck, and owning/driving it for a long time.
Also, from what I have heard, hot-dip galvanizing sometimes introduces other issues (holes plugged by the dip for ex).
The other reality (for me in the snow/salt belt anyway) is that often the rest of the truck will rust away before the frame does. Depends where you live and what climate the truck will see.
Anyway, good luck in your decision, and maybe you WILL end up building a lifetime truck, and owning/driving it for a long time.
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Switching frames would be a huge job. If your current frame is still in good shape, I would coat it with Por-15, or something like it. With a little bit of work, the frame should last you a long time. Nothing lasts forever- you could do all that work, and lose it tomorrow in a collision.
#7
the rest of the truck i would like to have painted and the inside of all the body panels coated with line x. i would also powder coat my axles and suspension components. do you think by doing this the winter would have no affect on the truck?
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Where are you Bigweights??
Sounds like winter driving is a concern for you, which I assume equates to concerns about road salt eating away at your truck. I've been fighting that battle with various vehicles over the years. My thoughts:
1. even using rust-neutralizers then painting over frames and other exposed chassis components with paints like POR-15 is not a guarantee: POR-15 can flake off in some cases.
2. rust can form INSIDE the frame and body panels where you can't de-rust and paint
Solutions:
1. drive a winter beater and sacrifice it to the salt Gods. And save your nice vehicle for the 3 other seasons. That's what I've been doing for years, I don't need a truck year-round so am content to leave my Dodge parked for the winter.
2. if you can't do 1 (ie. have only 1 vehicle, need your "special vehicle" in the winter, or don't want the trouble to licence and maintain 2 vehicles), then a better and cheaper solution (up here in Canada anyway) is to annually (in the summer or fall) get the truck sprayed with proven rust-proofing products like RustCheck, or Krown. Shops who apply these products will liberally cover all exposed chassis components, inside the frame, etc., with a sticky yet flowing special oil that gets into all the nooks and crannies, and prevents water-salt from getting in and doing its thing. They also drill holes to access and shoot oil using long wands into all inner body cavities (door bottoms, quarter panels, inside fenders, behind light fixtures, etc.). Costs about $120 per application, and I think it's well worth it. Vehicle drips for a few days then you're all set for winter.
3. even if you don't plan on driving your "special vehicle" during winter, good idea to get rustproofing treatment above (2) every few years (that's what I do).
Anyway, that's what I do. Less work than de-rusting, painting, spraying bed-liner, what have you. Your vehicle, your choice.
Sounds like winter driving is a concern for you, which I assume equates to concerns about road salt eating away at your truck. I've been fighting that battle with various vehicles over the years. My thoughts:
1. even using rust-neutralizers then painting over frames and other exposed chassis components with paints like POR-15 is not a guarantee: POR-15 can flake off in some cases.
2. rust can form INSIDE the frame and body panels where you can't de-rust and paint
Solutions:
1. drive a winter beater and sacrifice it to the salt Gods. And save your nice vehicle for the 3 other seasons. That's what I've been doing for years, I don't need a truck year-round so am content to leave my Dodge parked for the winter.
2. if you can't do 1 (ie. have only 1 vehicle, need your "special vehicle" in the winter, or don't want the trouble to licence and maintain 2 vehicles), then a better and cheaper solution (up here in Canada anyway) is to annually (in the summer or fall) get the truck sprayed with proven rust-proofing products like RustCheck, or Krown. Shops who apply these products will liberally cover all exposed chassis components, inside the frame, etc., with a sticky yet flowing special oil that gets into all the nooks and crannies, and prevents water-salt from getting in and doing its thing. They also drill holes to access and shoot oil using long wands into all inner body cavities (door bottoms, quarter panels, inside fenders, behind light fixtures, etc.). Costs about $120 per application, and I think it's well worth it. Vehicle drips for a few days then you're all set for winter.
3. even if you don't plan on driving your "special vehicle" during winter, good idea to get rustproofing treatment above (2) every few years (that's what I do).
Anyway, that's what I do. Less work than de-rusting, painting, spraying bed-liner, what have you. Your vehicle, your choice.
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