nkennedy

I have done a search on this, and have found conflicting info. I have an 01 Quad cab, with the infinity stereo. I have replaced the head unit, and want to replace the speakers. What size best fits the front doors, and the rear doors? Has anyone managed to keep the tweeters in the A piller, and if so how do I do that. I want to buy some speakers online, and don't want to have to send them back because I bought the wrong size. Thanks in advance for the replies.

mrclean

Check Crutchfield......they'll have everything you need.
www.crutchfield.com

kreynolds

Fronts are 6x9, rears are 5.25 (6.5 will fit). I just replaced all of mine. I don't have the infinity system so i can't help you with that.

Kody

In my 96 it has the infinity sound system. i was going to swap my Pioneer speakers from my 1500 into it but there are 4 wires that go to the speaker instead of the normnal 2

i want to upgrade the system so that it don't crackle and snap at full volume. my pioneer speakers did not crackle at all and they were loud. im just wondering because my door has two speakers in it one on top that seems to be a normal speaker and then one on bottom that acts like a sub.

I don't know how to go about wiring the pioneers in. for now the infinity speakers are good enough i just can't crank the volume up a whole lot

nkennedy

Thanks for the replies. Crutchfields was the confusing thing for me. They say a 5.25 inch speaker fits the front. I'm just going to buy a set of 6x9 fronts, and 6.5 inch rears, and let the tweeters go unhooked. Thanks for the replies.

GreatTruck2001

I did have the Infinity system and replaced the speakers with 6.5" in the front and 5.25" in the rear - Boston Acustics all around. Good luck - the new system is such an improvement over the Infinity system.

nkennedy

I finally got the new speakers in last weekend. Big improvement in sound. 6x9 fronts & 6.5 rears. The wireing was close to that in listed in a previous post, but not exactly, but with an ohm meter & some time I figured it out. Didn't need any spacers to move the speakers out in the doors either.

cmac

my 98 has the infinity crap in it too. ok infinity isnt crap just the stuff they put in these trucks. how did you wire it up? are you still using the factory amps or did you bypass them? how did you hook up the head unit? thanks

ado2b1

nkennedy, if you want to hook up your tweets too, I think you could get away with wiring them in parallel with your front speakers and putting high-pass bass blockers in-line before the speakers. Bass blockers are pretty cheap and should work well enough. I would imagine that the lower resistance from having the tweet in parallel would make a minimal difference to the head unit, but that's where I'm not sure. (i.e. two 4 ohm speakers in parallel shows 2 ohms which means it "gets" more power from the amplifying source). That might be worth a call to the head unit manufacturer to ask.


cmac, if you've got the money to use aftermarket amps for your stereo, I would recommend going that route. A lot of car systems have unusual resistances and setups compared to aftermarket products (like 7 ohms instead of 4 ohms). That doesn't necessarily mean the factory amps wouldn't work, they just wouldn't work well. With just standard "door" speakers, a typical head unit will give them enough power to sound as good or better than trying to send signals through a factory amp. Another thing to consider is its possible the factory amp can not handle the output power from an aftermarket headunit which would burn it out quickly.

As for my suggestions, or any board suggestions, you get what you pay for. I've put in quite a few systems in my time, but have the plain old factory stereo in the truck (with a huge amp and subs).

For anyone else reading this. If you get an aftermarket head unit that has a remote control, there is a product out there that will allow you to retain control of your steering wheel buttons.

cmac

ado2b1, so your saying it would be best to bypass the factory amps or go with aftermarket ones right. run new speaker wire and all correct? what gauge would you reccomend?

i put a nice alpine head unit (not top of the line but it was up there) and new infinity 3-way 6x9's in the door and the 5.25" (i think) in the 96 i had. it didnt have factory infinity so it was easy as pie to hook up. no amps no subs and it sounded pretty good. i dont think i would go through the hassel of putting in amps for door speakers, its more money and more hassel.

ado2b1

Yes to all of the above. Factory speaker wire is average or just below adequate. Using the right wire will make a heck of a difference. For smaller door speakers etc. 16 ga is probably adequate. When you get into high powered subs I've run 10 and 12ga from the amps to the subs, yes, that's the speaker wire. When I put my first stereo in an old Mazda at 14 I had 12 ga. going to my amp, ridiculous.

The 16 ga wire will most likely be larger than anything coming out of the head unit but will keep the resistance less than if you ran the tiny 22 ga or whatever the factory size is. If you run an aftermarket amp, then 16 ga. to the speakers should handle 50 to 80W RMS adequately enough (though high-end stereo guys would probably say that's too small).

It is a lot more hassle when you put in amps for door speakers, etc. especially in the cab of a truck meant to work. Sent you a PM.

nkennedy

I cut the wires off the factory speakers, and wired that to the new speakers. I don't have a high power unit though, just 22 wats/ch. The fun was finding the rear speaker inputs & outputs. I'm not sure that my tweeters aren't working now. That or the replacement 3 way 6x9's are doing a good job. Are you sure the tweeters wire didn't split off before the door? There was parallel wire going from the door coming off the front door speakers. Could've been that.