Hi Guys,

I am in the middle of repairing the rear passenger side fender flare I managed to break - not too badly thank goodness. I have finally managed to get the parts back together ( didn't lose any bits either) and have reinforced on the inside with metal backing (about 0.025" sheet metal) and pop rivets.
I am not looking for a new look, just practical and functional is all.

On the inside of the plastic/fibre glass moulding there is a bunch of info pertaining to the part including the material it is made from. The info is as follows - might be handy for someone else.

T300
RH5534826 <T>
MAT. POLYUREA-MICA 22%
VENDOR 51578F
MADE IN CANADA
MAN. MAGNA

I assume the RH5534826 is the part number.
I have tried to find out what resin to use for the POLYUREA-MICA 22% material and no one seems to know or won't tell (job security??? )
I would like to fill in the holes and cracks and s mooth out to a reasonable finish, but need to know the correct material to use. Does anyone on this forum have an idea of what resin to use ? I was told SMC but am not sure on that and I only want to do the job once.

Anyone know the correct repair material, resin ????

Thank you

mariner

 

a flatbed lol no more fender problems

 

go to a body shop supply store ,i bought a bumper repair kit,when iasked the same question on this board i got zero awnsers

 

Hi Guys,

Well, I have been doing a lot more digging around and have come up with a possible answer. It appears that the SMC resin should work on the fender flare with the Polyurea-Mica composition. I am off into town tomorrow to pick some up and try it out over the weekend. If it sticks then I wont know for sure how good it will be for some time.

Most of the places I drew a blank - lots didn't eith er know or were not saying and played dumb - more likely the latter.

The auto parts store I am going to tomorrow didn't know that the SMC resin should work with the injection moulded material fenders. The chap I spoke with - who was supposed to be the body repair man and gave advice, knew of only a two part adhesive used with a mixing gun to get the right mixture. When I mentioned to him about the SMC resin (I phoned in as I live 40 miles from Prince George, out in the boonies) he took a tin off the shelf and had a read and was surprised. Seemed to think it would work (as I do) and should hold up just fine.

Anyway, hope this post is of some help to others in a similar situation. Even today, fibre glass repairs is still a bit of a mystery to those who are unfamiliar with the product (s) and can easily get taken by some of the not so honest businesses.

I will post back later and let you know how my repair made out.

Cheers

mariner

 

Hi Guys,

As promised earlier, I am reporting back regarding the rein repairs to my rear dually fender.

I am not a body repair man and loath doing the work - but $2,000 is the estimate (conservative too) I was given and that money is a good incentive to try taking it on.

I got the pieces all back together - first by using thin wire like thread and tying the pieces in place. I then cut sheet metal (galvanised AC ducting around 0.025" thick) and put these pieces on the indside of the fender - one at a time and using a pop rivet gun and 3/16" aluminium rivets. This worked well even though I had to bend and shape some of the tin to fit. Once it was all done it was fairly rigid just with that repair alone The bottom of the fender, where it bolts to the under edge of the steel box side all got broken and there was no way to repair that. I ended up using ome piano hinges - not exactly, but similar and rivetted those on and held them in place with some stainless sheet metal screw.

The fibre glass work went well considering I haven't done too much. I used the SMC resin and products - which seemed to adhere well. I followed the fibre glassing with short strand body filler and then used the fine body filler over that to fill in the small deviations. All the stuff used was SMC - no mixing. I guess the materials in total, cost me around $110 Canadian but I have more than enough left over to do a fair bit of restoration to my 1986
F250 Ford pickup - should the mood take me :-) - or more repairs to the Dodge if need be.

The inside of the fender I painted with primer and then grey topcoat paint to try and prevent any premature corrosion.

Tomorrow I will install the new aluminum diamond plate mud flaps I have - two 24" x 20" pieces cut - need to fit and trim and put slight bend in the length. I had some thick rubber mudflaps before- too darned heavy and I decided the aluminum plate would be better - plus there is no way that plate will move forward and be caught by the rolling tire - which long rubber ones can do.

The fender isn't perfect but pretty close to it. I have just had enough of the body work and couldn't handle any more - for now. I decided to paint anduse the truck as I can always spend a bit more time on finishing the repair at a later date and when I am not so ticked off

Anyway, just thought you guys might be interested in how things went. I have even surprised myself how it has turned out - given the damage that was done. Like anything else in life - it was a learning experience I would prefer not to have to do again - but probably will. I'm retired, so money is a big consideration - so I gotta stretch it out a little.

Thanks

mariner

 

Just a thought there on your repair,you can use baby powder and resin together and make a past to fill small scrapes and holes. When ever you add more resin to a repair you must always sand and wash with acetone to degrease the area or you will have a bond issue. good luck

 

Thanks for the info guys. I have a hairline crack about 4" long in a rear dually fender I need to deal with sometime. It's been around 6 years since it was bumped and hasn't gotten any worse, but I'm thinking it's time for a paint job and may go the get it ready myself route on this project.

 

moparguy

If you have a crack to repair, find boat cloth and an epoxy resin. Boat cloth can be bought in rolls 4" wide. Sand the area just before applying your patch and wash the area down with acetone to remove all dirt. This sanding must be done just before you want to put the patch on, or it will separate.A two part epoxy is the best and with boat cloth ,you will have a flexible patch that will be strong.Never put a patch on that is thicker that the material that needs repair.you will have taken away the flex and moved it to the edges of your repair and will get two cracks. I have repaired a few fenders on big rigs where they will crack over the front wheel. I have never had one come back and my repair on those is not as thick as the factory fender. I hope this helps you guys do a repair on your own. later Don T

 

Don, THANK YOU!

 

The two part is the best,just use equal resin and hardener and your repair will be strong. two part epoxy can be drill a threaded and it will hold.