I am looking into making a quick and easy and clean method of bleeding air from my fuel system. I've tried to remove the front 1/8" plug from the filter housing, I have no air there, but I always slug the pump with air. Takes a lot of cranking to clear it with three injectors open.

I know....I know....the VP is getting weak.

I think that bleeding it right at the injection pump inlet is the best. My truck doesn't have the bleed valve there. All I end up with is a bunch of fuel all over if I use the banjo bolt.

Just don't want to reinvent the wheel.

Thanks,
Nathan

 

Just order yourself a tapped banjo bolt and install it at the inlet to the IP. Connect a hose to it whenever you want to bleed the air and direct the hose into a container. After you get fuel there, then open 3 injector lines, but don't crank yet. Run the lift pump some more until you see a little fuel at those lines. Tighten them up and fire up!

 

That is what I was thinking.

When I picked up my new LP last week, I asked the mechanic about the LP pushing through the injection pump. He said it would not. I have not been able to get mine to do that. I have to open the injector lines and then crank the engine to work out the air.

Nathan

 

Yep, the IP is the only thing that will move fuel through the injectors/lines.

 

If you run that lift pump long enough, you should be able to get a trickle of fuel thru the lines. There are some guys on the other forum who do it that way all the time. They run a direct wire to the lift pump & run it for 5 minutes or so.

 

I have a ‘98.5 with the two brass plugs on top of the filter. I was never able to use them to bleed all the air because it takes too much time to get the darn plugs in and out. What you need is a needle valve to replace the plug on the output side of the filter. Then just bump the starter and run around to the valve, open it and watch for fuel. If one bump is not enough, just close the valve and repeat.

Here is a picture of my needle valve along with a manifold with a gauge, pressure senders, and a snubber. All you really need is the valve screwed into the top of the filter housing with a hose to direct fuel into a can.

 

I got a sw that energizes the LP in ACC position,
( 3 way sw,:...LP is : PCM controlled, off, on : through a relay.)
Turn it on and run for a few minutes, I can hear the air bleed out by sound of pump. No problems starting after several fuel line & LP removals and leak fixes,
But I do pinch of the rubber fuel hose with vise grips to reduce amount of air entering system.

 

Added a valve at the VP44 that normally stays closed. When opened it allows fuel/air to return direct to the aux tank back in the bed. Put a switch on the side of the fusebox to manually run the fass. So, whenever changing the filter or changing inj's or whatever like even emptying the main tank to drop it down & work on it, I turn on the switch to run the fass and open the valve. Purges all the air from the system all the way to the inlet of the VP44. It has been one of the most helpful mods yet.