Gentlemen,<br> I've head some guys say to never change (drain) the rear axle fluid, just make sure the level is OK. I hear other guys say to change the fluid once a year. I guess it depends on how much you tow. I pull my camper (6200lbs empty) about 10 times a year. Should I just follow the manual as far as changing the axle fluid? Where do I check the fluid at? Thanks. 8)

 

[quote author=Jones0027 link=board=4;threadid=15186;start=0#142617 date=1054063224]<br>Gentlemen,<br> I've head some guys say to never change (drain) the rear axle fluid, just make sure the level is OK. I hear other guys say to change the fluid once a year. I guess it depends on how much you tow. I pull my camper (6200lbs empty) about 10 times a year. Should I just follow the manual as far as changing the axle fluid? Where do I check the fluid at? Thanks. 8)<br>[/quote]<br><br>Based on your use and the weight of what you are towing I would change it every 30K miles. Go with a good synthetic 75w90.

 

If I remember right my dealer says 30K max if non-synthetic but they recommend 24K. 60K if synthetic.<br><br>I'm thinking of having them change my rear and front diff at 30K to synthetic.

 

I plan on changing my LS at around 30K to Royal Purple 85W-140 (assuming it wont cause any troubles and I am still doing my research on the best oil to use). Most of my miles are highway and unloaded, though I do load the truck down good with a gooseneck several times a year. As for changing the fluid, I am still looking into that but I think I am just going to change it like I have others Diffs in the past--unbolt to the cover, drain the fluid, raise each side of truck for further draining, place the cover back on with a sealent, bolt, and fill in diff as required. I dont think I will need to add the friction modifier with the Royal Purple, but will if needed after doing Figure 8's. I hope this is all correct, though it will be a few more months untill I am close to 30K, I am only at 17K now.

 

Gary --great comments. indeed, the LS issue is a good reason to have the dealer do the fluid change. then you can hold him responsible to maintain LS functionality. At 24K miles (my dealer's recommended drain interval for the rear) I think I'll have him change things out -- then I'll go do the test, or make sure they prove to me that the LS works. <br><br>two questions about the LS though: (1) what prevents the clutches from engaging during a sharp turn on pavement? (2) what is the warrenty period for the LS itself. yikes it might be 2 years / 24K. do you know?

 

[quote author=Doug link=board=4;threadid=15186;start=0#143216 date=1054164678]<br>Gary --great comments. indeed, the LS issue is a good reason to have the dealer do the fluid change. then you can hold him responsible to maintain LS functionality. At 24K miles (my dealer's recommended drain interval for the rear) I think I'll have him change things out -- then I'll go do the test, or make sure they prove to me that the LS works. <br><br>two questions about the LS though: (1) what prevents the clutches from engaging during a sharp turn on pavement? (2) what is the warrenty period for the LS itself. yikes it might be 2 years / 24K. do you know?<br>[/quote]<br><br>On my 02 the warranty on the drivetrain is 7/70. The dealer wants big $$$ for this work and they will just add the limited slip additive and tell you it works. This is one job that anyone can do themselves. If nothing else get a hand pump and pump out the old fluid and add Mobil 1 synthetic and drive it and if it binds when you do the figure 8's add an ounce of additive and try it again. Also if you don't tow or haul much or very limited weight. Once you switch to synthetic you will be set.

 

[quote author=matthopp link=board=4;threadid=15186;start=0#142974 date=1054131176]<br>I plan on changing my LS at around 30K to Royal Purple 85W-140 (assuming it wont cause any troubles and I am still doing my research on the best oil to use). Most of my miles are highway and unloaded, though I do load the truck down good with a gooseneck several times a year. As for changing the fluid, I am still looking into that but I think I am just going to change it like I have others Diffs in the past--unbolt to the cover, drain the fluid, raise each side of truck for further draining, place the cover back on with a sealent, bolt, and fill in diff as required. I dont think I will need to add the friction modifier with the Royal Purple, but will if needed after doing Figure 8's. I hope this is all correct, though it will be a few more months untill I am close to 30K, I am only at 17K now. <br>[/quote]<br><br>No modifier needed with the RP.... I have the 85W-140 in both diffs... good stuff!

 

<br>The reason a LS doesnt chatter when going around a corner is because they are activated by applied torque. When you are on the go pedal it works harder to keep the tires positive. Thats why if your stuck you should ride the &quot;E&quot; brake. Thats the reason when you jack up the back you can spin the tires different from eachother. Not real easy but you can. If that was the only little resistance you got then they could never work. Some LS have higher initial loads on the clutch pack, around 800 lbs. But stock are low to keep them soft. So when you are on the throttle around corners you are putting more wear on the clutches. Drive with two different size tires and you will fry it, FAST. Its really hard to say how long they last. Its like brakes, its how you drive.