I have done a search through the forums and have not been able to find any asnwers as to how a wastegate stuck open can be fixed, short of new wastegate. Anyone have any ides or methods thayt have worked? It is in the shop now after having a fuel leak fixed, and the mechanic found the wastegate stuck open as he noticed low power level on the low end. This is a 2002, stock truck with auto trans and 3.73 rear end.

 

I remember reading posts about stuck wastegates and, IIRC, you can either disconnect the linkage and mechanically close the WG to build boost (potential overboost code) or treat the linkage like a frozen bolt and douse it with your favorite penetrating spray and keep working it til it loosens up.
Sounds like a good time to add a boost fooler and get some more power!

 

Just clamp off the air hose leading to the wastegate.. I would try spraying the linkage first..

 

Thanks for the input. We have tried soaking the wastegate and linkage with penetrating fluid, but nothing has loosened up. Guess what I will do is pull the turrbocharger and just replace the wastegate. This is the wife's truck, so don't eally want to start disconnecting things or adding high end units. If I was going to add things, I'll put them on my truck.

 

Remove the exhaust elbow to verify the WG is really stuck - takes a lot of grunt to open it against the internal actuator spring - normally they quit working because the wg actuator diaphragm ruptures, leaking manifold pressure, so the AFC doesn't function to increase fuel - fix is replace the actuator, can be done on the engine - could also be leaking hose to actuator - auto hose is on turbo compressor housing, manual hose comes from 'tee' between AFC housing (on the P7100) and intake manifold - can't remember what it's called on the VP44, may be the MAP or Boost sensor

 

Just an update on getting my wastegate that was stuck open fixed. Turns out that the mechanic tried running a reverse electrolysis process that ended up removing the buildup that had occured and the unit started working good. He did use penetrant prior to doing this so it may have been a combination of things. Anther thing he hapened to notice was that the low end power was off. After further checking he found that the fuel return check valve was not working properly. I had a new VP44 put in (under warranty) about 3 years ago and apparently this was never checked at the dealer, or went bad later. Anyway, low power problem solved and I now also have the low fuel pressure warning light system installed to. Maybe this will help someone else with a similar problem.