Hello all, I came across this forum today while looking for possible answers to my problem. Hope my explanation isn't too long winded. My 00 started giving me problems a coupe weeks ago not firing right off, got progressively worse to even having to crank quite a few times when its been warmed up. Changed fuel filter and in the process of bleeding the lift pump died, changed that and finally got things bled but it hasn't started until I drug it around the block with the backhoe the past couple days for the first start of the day. The check engine light finally came on this afternoon and had it checked at checkers, got code P0336 for the second crank pos. sensor? After finding this place I checked the code on the speedometer and got P1693 but I've seen and heard different reports as to what it means. Anyhow, I've not been too excited to start my day this way for a week to get into the dealership. And traction is getting hard to find around here. I was thinking about leaking injectors, my 8 month old injector pump, the crank sensor or what? What are your thoughts? I'm sure impressed with the wisdom you guys have

thanks- Chris, with about as stock as you can get 2000 3/4 ton thats sure not for show and could use a lot more go- if i wasn't broke all the time!

 

just to add to what I see going on, would this be the whole problem? I don't see power at the grid heaters but have it at the battery side of the relays? I guess thats what you'd call them on the wheel well below the fuse block? tried swapping the relay fuse to no avail. Sorry for the ill-literacy
Chris

 

pull on the fuel line with a mighty vac, I bet you find a fuel leak on one of the banjo's or rubber lines. I can't say for sure, but the crank pos sensor should not leave you high and dry.....I don't know that one for sure. as for the grids not fireing, check all connections on the relay and the grounds. they are really pretty necessary when it is cold. you could plug it in, but that is not the "answer".

 

High country, thank you for your reply, I sure appreciate it. now time for my stupid questions...what is a mighty vac, how is it used, and where would a guy find one? I'll pull the relays out and clean things up real good to see if I can get them to light up. Thanks again from a dense headed wrench turner.

 

The crank pos sen will make it hard to start with the starter you can pull it and start it every time.

 

thanks guys, I'll start cleaning up everything and get the sensor replaced, I appreciate your input. And won't turn down any other bits of wisdom. Chris

 

I have had hard starts from two different problems. First time was a cracked cam position sensor. Once that was replaced, no more hard starts. That did start hard when warm at times also. Second time weather was below freezing and I had either forgotten to plug in the block heater or didn't know in advance I was going to use the rig. I never did get it started that day. Took another rig. When I finally got around to finding what the problem was I traced it to non working grid heaters. Turns out the ground wire was not grounding through the crimp connection. Pulled it off and soldered it and worked ever since. Just some ideas that might help.

 

Here is a little update- installed a crank pos.sensor this afternoon and took grid heaters apart to clean up. Still starting or should i say not starting the same exact way, and not getting power up to the grid heaters. Any other ideas, how should I test the fuel lines for leaks? Thanks for all the help.
Chris

 

How cold is it there as the ECM will not turn them on unless its a certain temp, I dont know at what temp the ECM turns them on

 

In cool and cold weather, my voltmeter jumps up and down. Is a belt slipping?

* When the temperature is below 59 degrees, the intake manifold heater cycles to warm the air entering the cylinders. The heaters draw more current than the alternator can produce when running, so the voltmeter sees the heaters drag down the voltage. Cycling may continue for several minutes in cold weather.
* Intake manifold heater cycles depend on the temperature of the manifold.
* Post heat time sepends on how quickly the manifold temperature sensor warms to 59 F

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/cold_wx.htm

 

It hasn't made any difference, plugged in over night or not. It has always started down to -25F without plugging in, and its not near that cold here now, maybe 5 at nights up to 25 in the day. I can tell for sure the block heater is working.

Thanks guys

 

you can test the grids and relays with a VO meter or test light. you will have power to one side of the big terminals and not the other with the key off, turn the key on and it should energize the other side...if not check the small wire, that is the "exciter" wire that turns the relay on/off.

as for your fuel leak. you will need to look the fuel lines over. if you see any seepage, wet lines, cracks.....anything that is not just good ol' clean steel or rubber....replace or tighten. also pay attention to the lift pump banjo's washers. I have seen guys put the pump in w/o them and they work for a while and the motors vibes loosen the fitting and they leak. if you tighten them remember they are a very hollow bolt and break much easier than a bolt.

good luck

 

Went to the dealership today and got the dreaded news- New injector pump needed. A mechanic put a reman one in it in April while my wife was traveling. I think its was by industrial injection. Anyone know if there is ever a warranty? Maybe I could dive in and put a kit in like someone else wrote here. Guess I should buck up and get some gauges to go along with all the fun. Who makes good gauges that mount on the door frame next to the windshield? Thanks guys, sorry for the hundreds of questions!

 

Dont quote me but I've read that any re-built pump (by bosch certified repair shop) has a 1yr warrantee, would not hurt to call the people who installed it in April and find out, as for gauges any speed/performance shop sells em, or check the classified on this forum, I have a mechanical Autometer, plumbed into the cab, with a shrader valve at the IP. do a search on this site you will find lots of opinions/ideas for fuel upgrades and gauges.
BTW di your pump give a code? and does your lift pump work? and is the dealer going to put the in tank lift pump in your tank (if they do you might want to look at fass/ or others and that way you get a better lift pump for less money than the dealer will charge you)

 

Oh boy, I've crossed every body part I have about the warranty. As for codes, I get p1693 on the odo, the dealer didn't show anything pointing directly to the ip, they had to pressure test it. The manager had thought it was the IP but when i mentioned needing 1 new bat they thought low voltage to the crank sensor, he had seen that once. Sooo, at least I have a new battery now too. While changing the filter and purging air the LP died, thank goodness for Carquests lifetime warranty, their replacement last time was the stock style, this time they gave me the new style, but it says on the info with it it has a 1 year warranty. We shall see... Just for fun I asked the dealer about prices,about fell over at 2600 new IP 360 new in tank LP. I'll get looking for some gauges. Thanks for everyones help