rickf

I did not check to see if the actuator was holding pressure but I will put that on my list. The pressure gauge is electric, I did use a snubber that was provided by Glowshift for that application. I took out the plug on top of the filter on the inside of the filter so I could read after filter pressure. No, I did not change the filter, I had to order one and it will be in tomorrow. I only use NAPA filters because they are WIX filters which are much better that the Fram that Autozone carries. I guess I could use a different brand but I have used these for a long time and waiting a day is no big deal. I had to get the camper on today because I get home after dark and I didn't want that nightmare. I can do the filter in the dark.


Rick

KATOOM

Check that wastegate actuator and also keep an eye on that fuel pressure. That kind of pressure fluctuation sounds like a gauge or sender issue and not the fuel pump. Dont quote me either but I thought I remember reading guys talk about their Glowshift gauges giving them problems.

rickf

That gauge has to be replaced anyway because the light control button is not working.

rickf

Called Glowshift about the lights on the gauge and it was a simple fix. I called them a couple of times during this install and I have to say they have very good tech support.
I put the new fuel filter in and gained about a lb. all across the range. Taking a trip right after Christmas so I will see how things work. will have a 4000 lb. camper in the back towing a small trailer with about another 700 lbs. in it.

Have a Merry Christmas.

Rick

KATOOM

I hope everything is working good and have a Merry Christmas too.

rickf

Well I went out to get fuel and some supplies and I now feel a little better about the fuel pressure. After changing the filter I now have 15 at idle and never drops below 12-13 at WOT. That filter only had 6000 miles on it and the bowl was perfectly clean. It was enough to give me a 3-4 lb. drop in pressure.

Rick

rickf

OK, 900 miles in some of the crappiest weather and here are my findings. Overall ran pretty good, 12.5 MPG with a 4000 lb. truck camper towing a small trailer with another 800 lbs.
Boost consistently would hit 24-25, exhaust only once went over 900 and that was on a white knuckle climb of 1500 ft in less than a mile. exhaust was hovering right at 1000 at almost WOT in second gear looking what seemed like straight up for almost a mile. Fuel pressure over the whole trip never went below 12 lbs.
One thing I did notice is that if I left it in O/D it would drag down the RPMs on a long hill and as the rpm came down so did the boost and consequently the power with it. If I hit the hill at 60 or above the rpms and boost would stay up. It seems that as soon as I got below 2000 rpm I would lose power. Am I correct in thinking that if I were to go to the RV injectors I would be a little better off? Looking at the exhaust temps I can see it is lacking on fuel but would the computer compensate with the larger injector or would I have to start going with chips and boost foolers? IO do not want to do that.

Rick

KATOOM

Assuming that your pyrometer thermocouple is mounted pre-turbo then your EGT's look great. The maximum EGT's you want to run consistently is 1250* but quick bursts up around 1350* are OK as long as its only for a few seconds. Most of this is because you never know how accurate your pyrometer is. And I'm sure your EGT's look as good as they do is in part because you're pushing more boost than you should be. Boost being a product of fuel and RPM's is why your boost dropped along with the RPM's. Thats normal and what you should have seen is the EGT's staying the same or increasing as the boost was decreasing. But note that some of what you "should" be reading on your gauges is a guess because we're still not sure if your ECM is defueling when your boost is over the stock setting.

Your fuel pressure is to low in my opinion but I'll continue to say that since I feel anything less than 15 psi is never good for the VP. Again.....will it affect power output? No.....as long as the VP isn't affected mechanically or electrically.

Your fuel mileage being as low as it was was not so much the towing or the extra weight but the camper which sticks out over the top of the truck. Wind resistance plays the biggest role in loosing fuel mileage, besides excessive fueling and things like huge tires. I could tow a 24' TT and still get around 12-13 mpg but if whatever I'm towing is aerodynamic then the mileage would hardly be affected. Towing fast exaggerates aerodynamics too because it takes four times the HP to double your speed.

RV injectors will definitely help with HP but they'll further increase your boost. You'd definitely need a boost fooler.....if you dont already need one.
You might want a mild box like an Edge EZ. Not only is it about the same price as 275's but its far easier than installing injectors and you'll be surprised how much HP you'll gain. Also.....it has a built in boost fooler. The EZ will also potentially gain you 1-2 MPG too. There are other timing/fueling boxes to choose from and you may want to research that further too but unless you care to open the HP can of worms, I'd stay away from the high HP fueling boxes because they will inevitably bring on further HP goodies and the need for other aftermarket products to keep from damaging engine and drivetrain components. That is, unless you want to. A stock 2nd gen ISB can sustain no more than about what an Edge EZ and RV275's combined will put out before needing a stronger clutch for a manual or do whatever it takes to make sure the auto tranny can hold up.

Hope that helped.

Tejas TJ

I've got an Edge Comp, BHAF, Auto and an HY35 turbo and I never see boost around 60 MPH maybe 1-2 LBS if I start going up a slight incline. I'm gonna check the line to the boost gauge and then I'll start looking for leaks I guess.

Example: With the BHAF and silencer ring removed I hear the turbo more now than ever. So with that in mind once I hear the turbo is that when my boost gauge should start moving because that doesn't happen.

Tejas TJ

Anyone?

rickf

I replied yesterday but it is not here. Oh well. You will not see much if any boost while just cruising. You need to have a load to produce boost. Basically the more fuel the more boost
I have my ring off and a BHAF also, I can hear the turbo start to spool up and there is very little showing on the gauge. When I stand on it I can hear a little whine but not much as the gauge comes up. I am pretty much deaf in the midrange so that may be why I don't hear anything while accelerating.

Rick

KATOOM

5-7 psi of boost while driving down the freeway is normal. The most boost you can build in neutral is maybe 2 psi.