Gotcha..... And there is no other "boost sensor" but the MAP sensor located along the back of the drivers side of the engine. Actually the MAP is the second to last sensor since the IAT is the last sensor, but they are right next to each other. But as we discussed prior, if the MAP sensor was bad then you should be throwing a code. Should be being the key because it could be just reading inaccurately. And unless you have a way to test it, buying a new one is the only way to tell. I'd suggest finding a way to hook up a real boost gauge.....or better yet, get all three necessary gauges. But.....I know its not cheap so if you have some other way to get true and accurate "real" readings then by all means.....

Here's a couple good write ups from Moparman on the MAP sensor which might help you:
http://articles.mopar1973man.com/ind...=26&Itemid=107
http://articles.mopar1973man.com/ind...=26&Itemid=107

 

I have been looking at the Glowshift gauges, they have some nice package deals and there stuff has a lifetime warranty. I know I have to get the gauges but I need to try to find this problem before the holidays since I am taking a 1000 mile trip with the camper. I know the mileage thing has been beat to death and I don't believe any of these guys claiming 25 MPG. I am getting 15 consistently with 4:11 gears. What do you think? My Powerstroke gets 17 around town and 21 highway with 3:55 gears so I think I am in the ballpark.
Thanks for the links, I will dig out my Snap-)n Vantage and check the sensor. I can also do a run with the unit hooked up and recording over time to see exactly what the voltages are.

Rick

 

Now you're talking two completely different topics..... You can have my opinion but ya may want to start new threads regarding those two questions to get the best results.

So gauges..... I dont know. I know there's lots of talk about what gauge manufacture is best, electric verses mechanical, and who has the most problems. I dont really bother staying up with that topic. Just make sure you dont get garbage by going to cheap.

And as for fuel mileage..... This has been hashed out plenty as well with guys making wild claims. Using a calculator to divide gallons used for the miles driven is the far more accurate than using the overhead display. Using a GPS is the most accurate since tire size can skew the total miles. I think the average mileage for 3.54's is around 15-18 in town and 18-21 on the freeway. Subtract a few miles for 4.10's. Hope that helps.

 

Yep, I was just looking for your opinion, I have read all of the threads on both the gauges and the mileage. I notice you are the only one to have chimed in to help on this issue all the way through and I thank you for that. Because of your continued help I believe we have zeroed in on the problem. The screaming I heard could be a cracked hose to the wastegate. I know several of the vacuum lines for the heater are severely decomposed so I have no reason to believe the boost line is not also. I will go over it in detail over the weekend and let you know what I find.

Rick

 

Thank you for the compliment and I surely hope you figure it out. The whole point of these forums is to help.....not to simply talk smack to one another. Let me know if you find that was the problem.

 

OK, I crawled over every square inch of the intake system and I cannot find anything wrong. no torn boots, no bad hose on wastegate, nothing. Where can I hook up a boost gauge. I do not see anywhere to put a fitting.

Rick

 

You have a few options depending on what the boost gauge comes with. There is such thing as a tapped bolt which replaces one of the intake manifold bolts. The boost gauge plastic line runs directly off of this bolt/fitting combo to the gauge.

Or you can drill and tap the intake horn and mount the fitting right on the horn. You just have to make sure you dont allow any metal shavings in the intake manifold so probably removing the horn would be smart before attempting this. Also, there is no drill boss for tapping into the horn which means you'll only have the thin horn material to work with unless you put a nut on the back side of the fitting.

Lastly, you can remove the 3/4" plug which sits directly next to the MAP sensor. Then go to the hardware store and get a 3/4" to 1/8" (or whatever size you'd like to reduce to) and then simply screw the boost gauge line fitting into the reducer and then put the reducer back where the plug was. Since the plug location sits next to the MAP sensor, it has to be the most accurate of the three options.

Without tossing more options in the mix, I believe that if you choose to purchase a timing/fueling box that has a digital gauge display, those tap into the ECM somehow and give you your boost reading from the MAP and ECM readings. But you've already found that out from your Snap-On.

Now on another note..... I chose not to use the cheapo plastic boost line that came with the gauge. It wants to kink easily and is so flimsy that not only could it rub on something but probably not last long subjected to underhood heat. I went overboard and replaced the boost gauge compression fittings which were supplied with the gauge with AN fittings and had someone make me a small SS braided hose for my boost line. Certainly not what most would care to do but just explaining the differences you can opt to utilize. Some guys have found that semi truck air line is FAR more durable and reliable than the supplied boost line and is a great option. You can pick some up at a diesel semi truck repair shop and its not that expensive. The only problem is that its 1/4" which is bigger than the supplied plastic boost line which means you have to get compression fittings to match the air line size. Hope that helps.

 

Well I think I am going to go with the Glowshift setup. I can get three gauges, the pillar pod and all of the needed wiring and fittings for around 275.00. I will just wait until it gets here and do it then.
Thank for all the help.

Rick

 

OK, Gauges are ordered and should be here tomorrow. Where do you guys usually drill the manifold for the pyro? I do not want to cause a crack if I can avoid it and I want to get the most accurate reading.

Rick

 

Here's a link to one of the many instructions you can find if you simply Google Cummins pyrometer installations. I didnt read the entire instructions but this one happens to show exactly where to drill the hole. Thats very important too which is why I linked this one. Drilling anywhere else will result in incorrect EGT reading. Just take your time and you'll be fine. http://www.tstproducts.com/pdffiles/instpy25b.pdf

 

Gauges are here so now I have to get them installed. Manual says the A pillar cover just pulls off. Is this true? I have read these directions before on another vehicle and broke the molding when it did not come loose.

Rick

 

With the driver door open, pull the door seal off from around the top and front edge of the door jam. Dont remove the seal all the way off the truck but enough to do what you need to do. Then pull on the pillar plastic. It will come off but it may not want to release from the truck very easily. With the seal removed you can also see along the side of the pillar where the two or three places its mounted.

 

Thanks, That was what I was thinking but the seal was acting like a glued on seal so I did not want damage it.

Rick

 

The seal shouldn't be glued on. It holds on to the door jam edges but maybe someone couldn't get it to hold properly so they tried glue. Pinching on the seal where it goes over the jam edge before putting it back will secure it better.

 

It's the type of seal with the metal channel correct?

Rick