DL1221 and Supr, Thanks for all that detailed info. I called on the Surplus Autometer today and I’ll go that route it’s an inexpensive way to get the setup going. Good deal on the copper line too. Looks like all the fittings will do. That braded line looks nice, but costly. Could run it straight to the fuel port and no worries about flex though. Size is -3an I assume it’d work, but I guess a needle valve would be a must. Either way looks like you all put me on the right path.

Thanks again for all the help and one other question; I was planning to run to the outlet test port on the filter head. But DL1221 did you get a tapped banjo bolt from Geno’s for the inlet on the VP44? Sounds like you ran the 30” 1/8 line off the banjo bolt inlet on the vp44 to the copper along the inside well or so back to the cab. I’m going to order Fri afternoon.

Thanks again for taking the time to lay it all out. Looks like it will work well. I’d like to get the gauge in before next trip out to the high desert (kids are begging to ride the MX bikes). Just came off a run up to Lemoore, down to Bakersfield, then to Mojave desert, cross to 18, up to big bear, and back south to Fallbrook and not knowing what the truck is doing when out in the desert could spell disaster.


I know I said one more question and I'm becoming a pain, but Surplus has an AMI 0-15 gauge too for $10.00. Is that sufficient or is it better to have higher range to reduce stress on gauge and avoid leaks? Asking because the 0-15 would be quicker to read when glancing down.

 

No I didn't get a tapped banjo bolt, my 01 has Schrader valve (a valve with a plunger like your tire valves) on the inlet to the VP44, instead of the fuel ports on the fuel filter like you have. So I actually ran this rubber line:

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=LAHF2

to the 1/8 copper tubing, it is really nice because all the correct adapter fittings come with the copper tubing kit. So all I needed was this line, the copper tubing kit, and the water pressure gauge.

Now in your case since you have the test ports on the fuel filter, which look like they are 1/8 NPT, then you would use that other rubber line that has the 1/8 NPT female to 1/8 NPT male connections, instead of the Schrader valve connection. You can then do your set up like Crobtex did use a needle valve then run the rubber line to the copper tube to your gauge.

Of coarse you can also get the tapped banjo bolt and use that instead of the filter port, but you'll get the same pressure reading, and I think most guys with 98.5's that have the ports on the filter use those.

I think a 30 or 35psi gauge is better because a good stock lift pump can produce 15psi at idle, and if you ever upgrade to a high performance FASS or Walbro pump, they will make way over 15psi. I just installed a Campaign pump and I get 15psi at idle and about 9psi at wide open throttle (most people would say that if you get bellow 5-6psi under full acceleration, you should replace your lift pump).

The only thing that would really make your gauge stress out and self destruct would be big fluctuations. In fact on a 12-valve, their mechanical lift pumps can kill a gauge in just a few minutes if you don't use a needle valve to dampen the flow. Like I said, I don't think these electrical lift pumps on the 24-valves are that bad because even without a needle valve my gauge is steady as a rock.

Remember to use the Permatex #2 on the NPT fittings (only, not on the ferule fittings), and you might want to put a rag under the gauge when you first fire it up, in case you have a leak.

 

I'd put on the Vulcan Big Line kit. You can read my post installation numbers on page 2 of this thread: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...an+pusher+pump

It was $130 total and I think it was the best thing I could have done to prolong the life of my factory pumps......but you SHOULD always get a gauge first. Good luck.

 

who told you "DIESEL EATS TEFLON"?

 

I don't know if Diesel "eats" teflon, but the two times I've used it, it leaked. Maybe there's a good telfon and a bad teflon.

At any rate, look in the 12-valve forum, if you ask, people will tell you not to use it, for example:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=diesel+teflon

 

Once again thanks guys. I call Autometer and they said the 0-35 water PSI gauge is a good alternative to the more costly fuel pressure ones. No O-rings so should have no leaks from the gauge only connections if not done well. Today I’ll order the gauge, next the copper tubing kit, then Geno’s for the 30” 1/8f/m line some other stuff (been eying those Bilsteins), but a big line kit and relocation of LP to frame upfront or closer to the tank with a will do me for now. If all goes well I’ll be getting a slightly used Carter soon (13psi plus when using) as a backup for road side repairs if that should ever happen.

 

one of the reasons they say not to use teflon is when you tighten the fitting you could get some in the fuel line, it does happen!

 

If you use teflon tape on fuel lines (or hydraulic lines) you stand the risk of a piece braking free and causing trouble in your pumps. Then you get more practice, and greater cost!

 

Whilest thats very true if you don't wrap it correctly. The oil patch uses (and therefore....I have to use) an obscene amount of NPT fittings and pipe tape and PST. My boss enforces both PST and tape on all NPT fittings we use no matter if its water, hydraulic, air, oil or fuel.

these are just in with PST paste. thats really all you need on an NPT no matter what its flowing.

 

IMO just buy yourself a good quality liquid filled guage it will have a snubber
inside just beyond the fitting and before the pitote tube or what have you inside the guage. These are 2 1/2" guages though. some ingenuity will be involved in mounting it. I will be useing 1/4 single wire hydraulic line to feed the guage. it will not amplify pulses like rubber fuel line.....and WAY easier to work with and run than copper or any hard line under the dash. a good single wire hose is good into about 2500psi and a double wire is in to the 5000psi. so the 15psi you'll see in the transfer circuit definately won't bulge the hose. with crimp on JIC swivel fittings its an easy setup.

like this....finally got some pics uploaded