I know the current consensus is don't idle for &quot;long periods&quot;. I think that even Cummins requests this. Being that this is my first diesel I was dissapointed to find that I cannot idle at the campsite and keep a charge or keep warm. Since I am not a diesel mechanic, can someone tell me how fast build-up on the cylinders occurs and when you would notice. ??? I sometimes idle for 15 or so minutes. I'm only at 3k. ;D<br><br>Thanks,<br>Tom

 

I don't think 15 minutes is too long unless it is cold. The concern is wash down in the cylinders where the fuel is not completely burned and begins to wash down the sides of the cylinders and into the oil. Why not go with a high idler?

 

If you have to idle, you need to keep it above 1,100 rpms to keep the temps up and to eliminate the wash down..<br><br>You can buy a high idle kit (electronic), make your own stick (jam between the pedal and the seat), or stop by a truck stop and buy a throttle stick for about $6 that is adjustable and fits between the lower dash and the pedal.. I bought the throttle stick and use it when warming the truck up OR anytime I expect to idle longer than 10 minutes or so..<br><br>One of the other problems with the 24V is after idling a long time the cylinders cool down and the valves get 'varnished' and can stick/bend/break it if builds up..

 

Common misconception &quot;24V cannot idle&quot;-should say-all diesels will lose heat in cool weather as they will not produce heat if not working. Instant cure is idle engine up to min 1100rpm and this must increase as outside temp gets colder. 24V engines are more susceptable due to 4 valve head design which allows more air to flow through head just like Mack which has same problem in cold weather. Cummins directive says no unnecessary idling to reduce engine wear (engine is in a wear condition when ever running) and save fuel, however they also realize that there are some situations this is not possible. If you are working with your truck in cold weather idle it up when sitting to maintain water temp which in turn will keep combustion temps up for complete fuel burn and prevent slobbering(raw fuel cylinder wash down). Same thing for warm up cold engine will not produce heat espececially when most people have bad habit of cranking heat control to high-OK- but turn on fan to high which robs heat from engine. My method is go out to vehicle start and run for 30-90 seconds (oil pressure present) bring idle up to 14-1500 rpm on hand throttle (Dodge cold system wont work) set heater at Max temp on heat/defrost and let run until guage starts to rise or more. If extreme cold -10F or more set heat control on Max Air as heat in cab recirculares in truck only not drawing from outside until ready then as I start driving turn control to whatever necessary. Any time temperature is below 0 F I have a Cat tarp in front of the whole rad including below bumper, came out of mountains other day with all the quads (gross 11000lbs) and on some hills 4th gear max water temp went all the way to 195F completely covered. If your truck is bombed water temp/egt will tell you to open up and draw more air eg;consant 210 water and or 1050+, if these 2 cycle without exceeding upper limits let it work as you will be getting maximum combustion/fuel efficiency and no carbon/tar build ups. Signs of incomplete fuel burn are grey smoke, blue smoke and wet tar like gunk at tailpipe. You will cause more damage to your engine by cold slow idling and then jump in and run hammer down than you ever will warm up idling or leaving it run for half an hour at 1500. OPINION,OPINION PK

 

I agree with P Kennedy. If you need to idle, there's no reason why you shouldn't, if you can keep the engine temp high enough for the diesel to do efficient fuel burn. You can get a winter front to help this situation, and do other things, like PK said, using a tarp, to help keep the temp up. Unlike gas engines, diesels like heat as that's all that ignites the fuel. I use a large corrugated plastic 'For Sale' sign I bought at Home Depot. It blocks 2/3 of the radiator. I am in Virginia though, so if you are in a colder climate you will probably need to block more to retain heat.<br>I will say that if you do decide to block the radiator with cardboard, plastic For Sale sign, or whatever, you will want to block it in such a way as to allow even airflow, if any, across the fan blades. In another thread we have been discussing this and I have been told there have been cases where, because the fan cannot draw air on one side or the other, causing uneven air flow, the fan blades actually flex back and forth enough to eventually break off.<br>This has caused me to rethink my 'For Sale' sign idea. It has worked well, but does not provide even airflow to the fan blades. My new plan is for a piece of plastic that covers the whole radiator area, with a hole in the middle, allowing even flow to either side of the fan blades.<br><br>Chris

 

Stamey I have a piece of cardboard with a 6&quot; hole in the middle that has served me well for 2 previous winters.

 

When it is -30 degrees and colder you have to let it idle for at least 10 minutes before taking off. I start out for about 1 minute at 800 rpms and then manualy move it up to 1300 rpms. I use my snow broom and the front seat to raise the rpms. You have to let it warm up or something will break if you do not. Stay warm and have a happy and safe new year.

 

<br> I have to do some investigating but the 2003 trucks come with a plastic high volume fan like the big trucks would need some measurements to see if it fits. Our good buddy Luke S may have already looked at this as he is on top of many small but important details. The big trucks went to them many years ago because of high failure rates as stated and have saved many $2500 radiators. Another advantage of the way I place my tarp is there is no cold air flowing onto the firewall therefore cab stays warmer yet travelling at 70mph at -10-40F. In the winter my truck when working runs 12-14 hours per day. PK