Went to shift gears and got a grinding noise going from 2-3. We've all missed a shift before and I thought that's all that happened. Was a little hard to get into gear, but I finally did and the clutch pedal felt "weird". Went about 2 more miles and had to shift several times and I thought all was well. Pulled away from a light and went to shift from 1-2 and truck would not go into gear. Shut the engine off, put it in 1st gear, started truck in gear and crept into a Super Target parking lot in 1st gear. Wrecker came and towed me to the Dodge house. How much am I looking at spending for them to replace the slave cylinder (I hope that is all that is wrong). Truck has 103,000 miles and I have slipped the clutch a few times. I plan on replacing it with a SB CON-OFE at some point. I was thinking I would not need the upgraded hydraulics from SB since I am pretty much done modding (see sig). What are ya'lls thoughts on getting the SB upgraded stuff? Is it necessary for my application?

22 years of driving and I've never had to ride in a tow truck, can't complain though,
~Rob

 

If they replace it, they'll probably replace both the master and slave together as unit. Not really a hard job, just a little tight to navigate under the dash to get pieces in and out. I swapped mine out in the garage in about an hour (which I know was slow).

 

I think I paid about $200 for a master/slave combo for my 2001. I installed it myself. I ran the stock hydraulics on my OFE for 40K miles without any trouble. I think you'll be fine.

 

Do you get any kind of warning or anything when these die or does it just go out all at once and you have no clutch or brake? Any permanent fix or improved set-up or just a direct replacement, seems like a major issue on these trucks.

 

Mine felt like my foot slipped off the clutch while depressing it about twice over a month before it completely failed one day....need to replace it before you get stuck.

I bought mine over the summer...dealer only part for about $230 and about a 1-hour job. I found the electronic clip was the hardest thing to remove.

Do not get the 2-peice setup from NAPA, i thought i was saving about $10, but spent about 3 hours installing it and then removing to install the dealer one. Dealer is a one-piece kit.

 

Mine went quick, first notification was when it felt like I missed a shift/grounded the gears. Pedal felt funny, but it worked for about 2 more miles than quit.

Diagnosis from Dodge: Slave cylinder (duh), cost is about $500 Expensive, but to get it back to my house, then order the upgraded stuff from Southbend, then do the install myself, I just don't have the time. Plus, carpooing with the wife gets old quick. Biting the bullet and having them fix it

Curled up in the corner sucking my thumb,
~Rob

 

YOu mentioned an upgrade from Southbend, does it eliminate the problem for future failures? If so, does it include both cylinders and come pre-bled like the Dodge Unit?

Making a list for future reference. It seems these die anywhere from 50k to 200k miles

 

I just went through this problem. The Clutch Hydraulics are way better from SouthBend than the factory unit. I had replaced two OE units. Once my 3rd one failed, I went with SouthBend. You can also adjust the height of the clutch pedal. AWESOME!

Why did you have it towed? I finished pulling our 19K pound work trailer in after having mine go out. Just start 'er up in gear and shift without the clutch, LOL. The starter sure didn't like yanking that trailer though!

Merrick

 

I think the price I was getting on the Southbend stuff was like $300 for BOTH cylinders. I don't know if they are pre-bled. I won't need it for my application (future CON-OFE with about 400 HP), but I'm sure they are much better than the stock stuff (see Merrick's comments above).

And it never crossed my mind to shift without the clutch
~Rob

 

That's funny about not shifting without the clutch. It took me about 10 minutes to figure out how to get the truck in gear without using the clutch. Hello!? Put truck in gear, then start. LOL

Here's a OE Factory piece on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-Do...QQcmdZViewItem

Check the price and then call South Bend

I'd go for South Bend anyway. All of their stuff is 100% A++

Merrick

 

just called Oriellys and Napa in tulsa ... no listing for clutch master or slave

very strange no listings..

 

Advance Auto has it listed - -

 

OE Part #5015258AA $185.00

2.0 Hr Labour.


South Bend,

Hyd-X-1.50 - Years 1998-02

1-800-988-4345

If you can, talk to Peter, toell him I sent ya. If he is not available, Matt does a pretty good job too, and if you know what you want,Mary, the secretary can take your order just as easy. It's not her first rodeo..


Merrick

 

Mine is leaking (don't ask how) on my 98 and I need to replace it ASAP!

I checked a couple local parts stores and they show both the Clutch master cylinder AND the slave cylinder as being available SEPARATELY

How does one swap out/bleed the slave cylinder only ??

 

To everyone interested, get the Southbend unit and be done with it.

Yes, it is a two piece unit. No, it doesn't have to be bled. Install the slave, install the master, connect the two lines, pump the pedal a few times and you're done. The hardest part will be the electronic sensor on the clutch pedal.