About a month ago I posed a question about what years block would work for a repalcement for a 1999 cracked 53. I believe the answer was that 1998 through 2002 would work but I would have to use the crankshaft position sensor on the 1999 and the mounting hole or holes were on the 2000 through 2002 blocks. Now I have one more question. Will a HO block for these same years be the same? I figure probably the only difference will be the injectors and possibly injection pump setting. I just do not want to buy something that will not work. I plan to just swap all the parts from the cracked block to the replacement I purchase. Thanks for all your help.

 

If its just a block you're after, any VP 24v block will work. The HO's had different pistons as well as injectors and pump, but that has no effect on the block. The later engines had a block off plate over the crank sensor. Remove that and pop the sensor in.

 

Thanks, that was what I was needing to know. At the salvage yard, they only show that the 98 99 blocks will work but I figured that was because of the different crankshaft sensor. This is a pretty sharp looking truck but just has a junk block. The prior owner came down 3000.00 from what he was wanting last year so it followed me home. I realize it will take some time to do the changeout but hope to make a couple bucks on it and keep driving my 01. I have a Jetta TDI that I mainly drive since it makes an honest 46.5 mpg.

 

http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx

 

If it were me.. I would use Loc-N-Stitch. I have seen it used lots in the industrial engines and they have 5.9 repair instructions just for the 53 Block..

5.9 Cummins 53 Block repair.

Or just the website
Loc-n-Stitch

The last repairs I have seen were cracked heads on a old Cooper LSV. The cracks were 4-6" long and they stitched right up with no problems of leaks. This was on the firing surface too, not just the outside of a head.

 

I had first considered the lock n stich repair but that would cost around a grand plus my time and then you are not sure that you would have any success so decided that if I could buy a decent block for 500 and then the new gaskets I would know what I had when I was done so I think I will go that route. Salvage yard just got the block in and am going to take a look at it later on today to see what it looks like. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

But does the 00-02 engine have the tone ring on the crank for the CKP? If it didn't, the crank would have to be swapped out of the old engine and swapped into the new block.

 

I have lots of experience with lock n stitch on these trucks with 53 blocks...and unfortunately, not much of it is that good. I think the method is sound...but not for these specific engines. Just too much damaging harmonic vibration and the block wall thickness is just too thin. My experience is that the lock n stitch will hold for a while but eventually fail and/or begin to leak again. Once the leaking starts, it will not stop. You can throw more stich pins into the affected area and wind back the clock again but the process just ends up being cyclical. Even more so in colder climates. I have seen the cracks eventually begin to lengthen beyond the initial repair area as well. After my experiences, I would not consider lock n stitch to be a permanent repair for these engines.

 

I tried Loc-N-Stitch and it still seeped,,I came up with this repair and it worked great! Did not leak a drop in 10000 miles, Of course it was on a truck with a standard trans,Dont know what yours is, Then I got a Heck of a deal on an engine with 8525 miles on it and could not pass that up.. Maybe this will help you come up with something, Cost me about 10 bucks and some welding, My crack was 8.5 inches long
Dont know if this helps at all..

 

2k's have the tone ring, newer ones have the tone ring on the cam gear. You're right if he is looking for a short block, but if its just the block itself, any will work.


Is your first picture of the brace that you're supposed to attach after the lock-n-stitch procedure?

 

I believe it a picture of a brace he made to hold the rubber seal so it would not leak.

 

98 1/2, 99, and 2000 are the same. Get the correct parts. or you get bogged down on the little stuff. I have heard the front cover cam sensor hole is in a slightlly different position. Cam gear, and crankshaft are not interchangable from a 2001 or 2002.

 

When you install the Loc-N-Stitch it will at least contain the crack and add some support to the two halves. Sorry to hear it still leaked.

 

I should have skipped the Loc & Stitch, The bracket worked awesome,The bracket has a 1/4 inch steel plate welded to the heads of the 1/2 inch bolts so you can adjust pressure against the block and a heater hose split in half to create the seal,, When I get home from work I can take some photos of the bracket,,I still have it hanging on my garage wall..

 

I installed a 2001 #55 or #56 Block in my 1998.5 the 2001 had the cam and crank sensor, It was actually a ISB 185 out of a airport shuttle bus that caught on fire(the front of the bus) and only had 8525 miles on it,Only bad thing was I had to drive to Ohio from Connecticut to get it. I put my VP injector pump and my ISB 235 injectors in it, Been running great ever since it now just turned 100000 miles, I have a 2001 CTD in my driveway under cover and will be selling it off this year,But selling it locally cause I don't want to get involved in the freight thing, I sold my cracked #53 engine minus turbo injector pump and injectors for $500.00 and the guy who bought it came from Wisconsin to pick it up.