[quote author=WTTD link=board=4;threadid=18589;start=0#msg180029 date=1062603393]
Didn't read the whole post so, this may have been suggested before. Everytime I have seen this problem it was the crank position sensor, located in the block up from the starter.
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Well, we have at least two different apparent problems with similar symptoms. In one scenario, blipping the throttle seems to catch it and make it run again. In the other, it just cuts when the cruise is turned off. In the second, it doesn't show a code for the CPS when the key is cycled, although it might set one and not show it.

 

WTTD, would the tachometer work normally if the crank position sensor was bad? My tach reads normally as my truck looses power. Just want to make sure before throwing more money at it with no reward of success.

Thanks.

 

I just finished test driving my truck after installing a new lift pump and larger banjo bolts. My truck seemed to be running MUCH better. I first noticed that the engine ran much better when in neutral and reving to full RPM. I then drove the truck with a temporary fuel gauge installed and pressure never dropped below 10 PSI. (10 psi is the max this guage reads) The truck did not seem to loose power like it has been. I am keeping my fingers crossed!!!!! I am still not convinced that I have it completely cured.

 

jdeereboy,
Yes the tach matched the engine RPM when the CPS was going out. Your's does/did sound like a lift pump problem and you should have it fixed if you are getting 10+ psi.
Chace

 

Well, I thought I had it fixed with the new lift pump. I was wrong. The engine still looses power when driving. All of a sudden the engine stops pulling. Once again, if I push in the clutch and let the engine slow down to idle, I can immediately go back to driving fine for a period. I installed a new lift pump along with the high flow banjo bolts. I will next look at the crank position sensor.

Anyone else have any other suggestions?

 

I am new to this forum, but I had a similar problem on a trip once and it turned out to be a bad software load in the computer. Dealer reloaded the software and never had the problem again.
Cudakid

 

Just replaced the transfer pump on mine because it was doing that, cost 1900$ but luckily it was under warranty, hope this isn't your problem but it sure cured mine

 

I had the same problem with mine for several weeks before it was diagnosed as having a bad VP-44 injector pump. Driving along, felt like you shut off the engine, push in the clutch, let it idle for a second, then off it would go again. Even with a new lift pump, it was still doing it.

On another note, I pull my codes by turning the key on and off three times? A couple of you guys mentioned 4 times, Is this new, or am I wrong on the turns?

On/off, On/off, On---codes will appear where the odometer is..

 

I've replaced quite a number of VP's for the above prob, but I would have to say 95% of them had a p0216 code present or stored.

 

I hope you mean injection pump, VP44.

Transfer, or lift pump should be less than $300, including Dealer installation.


phox

 

Clean all your grounds....

 

it is your VP44 I would bet money on it. That is the classic symptom of it going south. Next to not starting at all. I am going through this now and your example of symptom is EXACT what I have encountered.,