24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

PLease help me!!

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Old 08-06-2011, 10:24 AM
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Thumbs down PLease help me!!

I have a 98 Ram 3500.. I removed the injectors and replaced the copper washers to fix a leak.. I then put it all together and primed the fuel line but my truck sitll will not start... it worked fine before all this.. i just wanted to fix the leaks from the injectors!! WHAT DO I DO NOW????
Old 08-06-2011, 10:30 AM
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you will need to loosen several lines I usually do the 4 I can reach, and start cranking it, it will take a while but it should fire, start closing lines and the engine will start.
Old 08-06-2011, 10:38 AM
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i have tried that what else could it be?? i replaced the lift pump 2 months ago and had to do the same thing.. it started right up.. but this time i havent a clue what is going on
Old 08-06-2011, 10:44 AM
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IF the lines are empty, it takes alot more, I know when I do my VP it took for every compared to running out or fuel, I would try some more, after you verify you have pressure to the IP, also did you make sure to get your cross over tube in correctly assuming you have a 24V.
Old 08-06-2011, 10:46 AM
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Everything is back to the way it was when i took it apart.. I have the 12 valve.. ran the batteries out so its charging right now.. going to go out and try again
Old 08-06-2011, 11:12 AM
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On the left (drivers) side of the engine under the intake manifold but near your fuel filter canister is a black button with a rubber cover over it. That is the MANUAL pump to prime the pump and injectors. Get a round stick (I use and old cut-off rake handle) and push that button in and out and it will pump fuel for you. You have do it ALOT and it will take some time, but eventually your truck should start. As the other Member said, loosen the injector lines while you do this to MAKE SURE the fuel is getting there. Once you see fuel, I tighten up all lines with the exception of say #1 and #3 or #1 and #4. Then have someone crank while you watch the lines and injector. You want fuel to be running pretty good with NO AIR BUBBLES! The truck should start at that point. After it starts, tighten the loose lines back up.

You have air in the system right now and that needs to be out of there. If you had a FASS or Air Dog Fuel Pump or any electrical fuel pump those pumps would do it for you, but without them you have to do it manually!

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Old 08-06-2011, 12:36 PM
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Exactly how long is this bleeding process supposed to take?? ive pumped the primer many many times to the point my arm feel like its going to fall off then cracked the lines at the top of the injector pump.. sometimes it starts but stalls.. air bubbles always seem to be coming out
Old 08-06-2011, 01:03 PM
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If you have pumped the manual primer without cracking the lines at the injectors (not the injection pump), then the fuel and air had nowhere to go. You need to crack the lines at the injectors, then prime.
Old 08-06-2011, 01:28 PM
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ok i got fuel going to 1,2, and 3 but nothing on 4,5, and 6. lines cracked at the injectors
Old 08-06-2011, 01:41 PM
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i think it may be time to take it to the mechanic.. ive been trying all day today and most the afternoon yesterday.. I can normally do this sort of thing but it never goes right when its my own personal vehical
Old 08-06-2011, 01:49 PM
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Sir:

Hodge is giving you good advice on the fuel lines etc.

As I said in my first post it takes awhile to get that fuel up there with just the manual button! I know because I have had to do it on my 96' Dodge CTD as well as MANY of my friends for various reasons. One suggestion I have is to CLOSE the front lines (#1, #2, #3) BEFORE you open up the back lines. If you are seeing air bubbles, then you have to keep pumping that button. I also HIGHLY recommend installing an electrical fuel pump so you don't have to go through this again.

Good luck Sir!

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Old 08-07-2011, 09:02 AM
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If you've got an air compressor take a blow nozzle and put it in the tank with a rag to seal it up and pump air in the tank to pressurize it while someone is cranking the engine. I did this on a 98 12v once after hours of pumping and bleeding. Fired up pretty quick....
Old 08-07-2011, 09:06 AM
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also check your fuel shut off solenoid. Just to make sure it is engaging. if you are getting fuel your truck will start. like the others have said, it takes more cranking than you would think. keep us posted
Old 08-07-2011, 03:40 PM
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Yes, I would say the fuel shut off is weak. Eithe tie it in the up position or have some one hold there while you crank it.
It should start pretty easy. Are you loosening the lines at the injectors or the pump? Pump is wrong!
Old 08-07-2011, 03:56 PM
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Loosening lines at injectors.. the fuel shutoff solenoid is extremely hot.. is this normal?? And the rod and spring are separated from the housing.. is this normal??


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