anyone done one? what's it take.

 

Yep. Money and time. Not hard, but there is some fabrication and part searching.

 

Tate did you have to ditch cruise control after that?

As lame as it sounds, I would hate to give up the on the fly adjustments that my VP offers..

 

My cruise hasn't worked properly in a year and a half, well before I did the swap. It still doesn't work though, but I think it has something to do with the clock spring in the steering column and the buttons not working. I had to hit the buttons about 20 times before I could ever get the cruise light to come on the dash. I don't think it would work that well with a gutted AFC, the pedal is real touchy. If I had the AFC tuned in, I'm sure it would be alright.

 

I'm a fair fabricator so what's needed, does it need a different timing cover? does the trans need the engine ecm. What does the trans need? thanks for the replies.

 

Fabrication was in the modding of the linkage, making a timing marker for the damper, fitting the oil line (not so much fab as modifications), cutting the head, etc. If you plumb the oil line to the other side of the pump, you should be able to avoid having to cut and grind the head. I found out about that after I did it. Leave the ECM. Otherwise you'll lose you gauges, grid heaters, lift pump, and so on. It controls everything except the injection pump, it still needs to be there. My truck is a 5 spd, so I'm not entirely sure how its gonna react with the auto. You'd need a TPS for it, I'd imagine.

 

Haisley Machine sells a whole kit to do this, minus the pump and a few other odds and ends that differ from truck to truck.

 

thanks for the input. I'm just gathering info now. I have a newly rebuilt and ported 12 valve I may use. thanks. Steve

 

FWIW, swapping a 12v in place would be the cheaper route. More work with the electrical, but be cheaper, and no custom parts in case you have something go wrong (I had a leaky line, was down a week and a bit waiting for a new one).