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Oil drain plug woes!

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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:01 AM
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From: Mission Viejo, CA
Unhappy Oil drain plug woes!

Yesterday, I did an oil change and looked to my manual for torque specs ... I already know that was a mistake! Not thinking, I attempted to torque the plug to the "manual's recommended 60 ft lbs." Just as you can imagine, the plug fractured and would not seat. I replaced it with a new one from the dealer ($20 for plug and washer, WOW!). Torqued the new one up to 44 lbs and it is leaking, not too bad, but, none the less, leaking! I gave it another slight tightening this morning, but no help. Anyone got a fix for this? Do you think I can tighten the new plug to a higher torque than the 44 lbs?
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:11 AM
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Just order you one of those brass oil drain plugs that you just flip the lever to drain, no more having to remove the plug and gettin messy. I still use the factory style plug but only put it just snug, it seems to tighten itself down between changes.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 12:12 PM
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If I clean the area with brake cleaner and run a bead of RTV around the plug, do you think that'll seal it? I'm just looking to get by until next oil change, without removing it, if possible.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 12:19 PM
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I'd have to wonder if you initial tightening hasn't jacked the threads in the pan. RTV might work but I think it would have to be clean and dry for it to set up right. Another option if the threads are bad would be a bolt w/rubber washer on it just to get by with.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 01:11 PM
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I don't know how I would have damaged the threads in the pan. The new washer that I used has a rubber portion in the center, so it should have sealed ... no?
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 01:20 PM
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Wish I had a better answer for ya, I just can't imagine putting 60 pounds of torque on it. I've never measured it but I bet I don't get more than 20 and by the next oil change it's hard to break loose. Since you have already tried a new plug it must be a problem in the threads of the pan would be my only other thought. Sooner or later somebody will jump in here that has a better idea, I know this has been a common problem that's why they made the new style of plug. I may be wrong but I think I remember seeing them in Geno's site.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 01:49 PM
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The correct torque is 44 lbs. The plug didn't get 60 lbs, it probably got around 50ish before it fractured. The threads on the old plug looked fine, even the parts guy commented on how clean they were. I think I'll try the RTV.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by piperca
I'm just looking to get by until next oil change, without removing it, if possible.
Aren't we all doing that? I'd be careful with the RTV. I'd be afraid of it getting into the engine...
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 06:16 PM
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Yeah, you're right, I'd better fix it right! Anyway, it looks like I've got bigger problems. I threw a code this afternoon, P0122-TPS voltage low. This happened to me a few weeks ago, but I was able to reset the TPS voltage. I just checked it and it isn't too far out ... I don't know what's causing the problem. I can accelerate to about 65 and after that it feels like I have a governer on the engine ... GEEZ!
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 09:52 PM
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I posted up a picture of my plug cracking all the way arround quite some time ago.
I never overtightened it or anything but it scared the hell out of me that it could have let go at anytime Anyway I went to DC and grabbed a new plug and washer as you did, put it in and couldnt get it to seal with the new washer? I had to put the old washer on to get a seal. Since that ordeal I was too gun shy to use the stock plug and ordered a magnetic one with a alluminum washer and presto all better. The new one uses a 7/8 open end wrench to undo and the collar is twice as thick. If I remember right the new plug and washer was under $15 shipped.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ratsun
I never overtightened it or anything but it scared the hell out of me that it could have let go at anytime Anyway I went to DC and grabbed a new plug and washer as you did, put it in and couldnt get it to seal with the new washer? I had to put the old washer on to get a seal.
SAME thing happened to me. New washer wouldnt seal either. Im using a Femco EZ Drain...works like a charm:

http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...ID=210&CATID=1

Piper - Doubt youll be able to use silicone to seal it - Permatex #2 (or something similar) MAY work for ya.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 11:28 PM
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You could try putting some teflon tape on the threads. That is what I did and I havent had a problem since.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by oestreich84
You could try putting some teflon tape on the threads. That is what I did and I havent had a problem since.
Thats not the best advice. The smallest chunk of teflon in your oil could plug a piston cooling port. Which "could" potentially result in a engine teardown. I would seriously think about getting rid of the teflon.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 05:38 AM
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Just put a copper washer on her, copper being soft enough to take up any play and seal. We use them all the time on certain parts of the mighty Detroit's. I wouldn't torque that pan bolt either, just tighten it, run it, then check, if no leaks, your good, just check every now and then. I have never torqued mine, actually I only use a 3/8 drive ratchet, so I can't overreef it.

Stephen
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 09:21 AM
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So far I've never got to this problem but I've got a short handle 3/8 ratchet that I use to lossen and tight the plug...

But during the tighten phase I choke the ratchet handle close to the head so I don't over torque the drain plug. So far this is working quite well. +70K and still leak free on the plug but... The vacuum seal is starting to weep...
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