I just bought my first CTD, a '98 2500 24v. As people told me on the "Other" forum, I tried to check if my block is the 53. I see no marks at all on the left side under the thick wiring harness, only a small "A2" underneath the clamp that holds the harness to the block. Does this mean that it is not a 53? Are there other places to look? On the right side I could not see it, either.
People also said to invest into FP gauge and a lift pump. I searched the site and it looks like I may have in-tank or external LP. I could not figure out if I can add a second pump, some say fuel can not get through a failed stock LP, so what's the point? Do I want to get a high performance LP or a campaign pump, and rely upon the pressure gauge to see if the LP has failed? I certainly would like to aviod busting the VP.
So my three "to-do-s" were:
1) is it 53 or not;
2) FP gauge;
3) campaign or high performance LP.
4) KDP check. It has 106k miles on it. Is it safe to think the pin is gummed up good or has been fixed?
Is there anything else I should pay attention to? Intended use - road driving and some trailer pulling. But I do go into the mountains and blowing a VP there would mean a long, bad day.
Thanks!
-P

 

1) The 53 is usually at the front of the motor, on the left side, under the IP, and just above the oil pan. Sometimes it may also be on the right hand side in the the same general area. If it is a 53, take a deep breath, then go on living like you did before you found out it was a 53. The chances of you cracking your block are relatively low. Be more concerned about your IP!

2) Absolutely get a gauge. On your fuel filter head, there should be two 1/8" NPT ports, one pre filter, one post filter, that you can use to hook your gauge into. I'd reccomend post filter, will help tell you when you need to change filters, and will tell you what pressure your IP is receiving (unless you have a pinched line from the filter to IP). Electric or Mechanical, it really doesn't matter. I've got an electric, and I'm happy. No chance of fuel in the cab. If you go with a mechanical gauge, get a needle valve (or other throttling valve) to reduce the pulsations going to the gauge, and a means to kill the flow incase of a leak. Most agree to just skip getting an isolator, as sooner or later, the diesel fuel will eat through it.

3) Campaign pumps are dying too, just like the stockers. I'd say get an aftermarket setup, but thats just me. Many are happy with a big line kit that relocates the pump to frame by the tank. Or a pusher pump, like the Holley, to supplement the stock LP.

If you have a lift pump attached to the block yet, I'd imagine you are not going to have an intank pump too. But check the tank for an extra wiring harness anyway. With the stock, block mounted LP, fuel can be pushed (or pulled) through it. Thats how you can have a dead LP, and the truck keeps running.

4) Ahh, the 24v KDP. To some, its a priority, to others, it doesn't exist. I haven't bothered with mine. There is a thread around here, with an e-mail from Cummins saying that the KDP was fixed when they went to the VP's. I'm gonna leave mine as is. If it means cracking the timing case, well, that much more reason for me to go to a P-pump at that time.

Hope some of that helps.

 

This will give you info on where some of your engine parts are. It comes in handy for newbies....at least it did when I was one.

Welcome to DTR!