Hello all and happy holidays!I have an 01 w/95000 miles. I have no complants but I read all about failing vp44s, and I want to do new injectors or somthing of the sort.I already have a comp box ;D afe magnum cold air,four inch straight pipe {turbo to tip}and no silencer ring ;D Is there a easy way to tell if your pump is going bad or is it a good or bad sort of thing?Has any one up graded their pump to an after market or high performance pump? Any way I apologize for all the questions but I HAVE NO IDEA If I can put high performance injectors on a stock ,maby tired pump??? Any response is great
Thanks, JIM

 

Usually when the VP44 dies, it just dies.
It might throw codes on its way out, mine didn't, it just died.
Stumbly idle for a week before was my only clue.

No real way to tell if it is getting close, most of the time.

I hope you have a fuel pressure guage, a dying lift pump will take out the injection pump by robbing it of lubrication and cooling fuel flow.

If you've had the comp for a while, with the wire pierced, you most likely have a pretty good injection pump.
If it was going to die, it would have shortly after piercing the wire.

Only way to tell for sure is to try.
Crossed fingers, knocked on wood, salt over the shoulder, etc.

More than likely, your clutch (if still stock) will die first.

phox

 

Phox says it best, I'm currently without truck for the third time if 4 weeks, first time, lift pump, second time diagnostic test reveal bad vp-44 injector pump, now FINALLY the pump arrived and maybe I'll make it another day or two........B4 I seriously hurt someone :'(

Anyway, I've ordered the gauges, fuel pressure, boost and EGT from ROD and wildcat diesel. Everything I've read states that if you can catch the faulty lift pump prior to it going caput....you can save the injector pump.

lift pump $160.00$$$

Injector pump $1,000.00+++

gauges, havn't got the bill, but probably about 300.

So far I'm still under warranty, next time,(I'm at 80k now)I don't figure I'll be so lucky.

 

Phox, How right you are!!! My stock clutch is very thin and IM WAITING FOR TO DIE BUT WHEN IT STARTED TO SLIP I started to pussyfoot it to make it home...that was four months ago and the "bad clutch' is still holding.im sorry but I dont have a fuel pressure gauge on my truck. the only symptom I have right now is when in first and idling and I start to let out clutch the idle starts to fluctuate slightly. is this normal or is there a problem :- Thanks again Jim

 

That sounds pretty normal.
Could be linked to the clutch too.

Not ever having driven a manual tranmission Cummins I'm not sure.


phox

 

Go for the injectors! You will get smooth power and they are easy on your injection pump. You can run with your comp off and save alot of tear on your pump. Go with stage II or III injectors. I don't suggest anything less, because you WILL want more.
-Jason

 

thanks a ton for the advice. is there a certain brand i should find ?? If so where do i begin to look??. thanks again for the responses. JIM

 

Jim,
Spend the moeny for the bigger injectors. I am learning going small to start is getting expensive! Plan where you want to be on power, and get the injectors to go 20-50 hp above, and you will be happy. 275s have doubled in price, I got mine for <$300, but I see them now around $600. From what I hear DonMs injectors are awesome.

 

[quote author=jimjawz link=board=4;threadid=23923;start=0#msg225605 date=1071726593]
im sorry but I dont have a fuel pressure gauger on my truck. [/quote]



I would definitely strongly recommend adding a fuel pressure gauge BEFORE going much farther and definitely BEFORE adding larger injectors!!!!!!!
Larger injectors put even more demand on your fuel delivery system, so you need as much warning as possible of potential lift pump failure, which more often than not will lead to VP44 failure.

LP= about $160
VP44 = about $1600
Fuel pressure gauge = about $70
Peace of mind = Priceless!!!!

 

I understand the larger injectors are easier on the inj. pump because there is a higher flow of fuel flowing... IF the lift pump is working properly.

Mike

 

[quote author=Marine link=board=4;threadid=23923;start=0#msg226705 date=1071894889]
I understand the larger injectors are easier on the inj. pump because there is a higher flow of fuel flowing... IF the lift pump is working properly.

Mike
[/quote]

I'm not too good with physics, but larger injectors = more volume. More volume at same flow rate = lower pressure!

Or system has to move more volume to achieve the same pressure. Any way you cut it, the pumps have to work harder.

If I'm out in left field, someone I'm sure will correct me.

 

pressure will go down, volume will increase. If you double the line diameter, flow will quadruple as well.

Mike

 

wow do I feel like an idiot :- I had no idea that a feul gauge was so important. Where do I find a good gauge for the cap of my truck? Could sombody please direct me to a good retailer/site were I could find a gauge possibly injectors? What type of pressure is acceptable?? since I STARTED THIS TOPIC I have'nt turned on my comp not even to levle one before I get a gauge. {sorry about the wierd caps every now and then...my key board is on the fritz.}

 

Many sources for gauges and injectors. Rip will give you a good deal on both http://www.protintnw.com/sa-main.htm

Might also try Geno's Garage http://www.genosgarage.com for gauges.

Piers is also another vender that a lot of folks use.
http://www.piersdiesel.com

 

Acceptable LP pressures:

13-15 at idle
10-12 cruising
6-8 at WOT