Sadly, I mean to the right. I hit the breaks and the truck pulls to the right. If I dont put that much pressure on the breaks I feel a vibration, if I hammer the breaks it just pulls to the right. But all this is intermitant. Some times she just stops like she should.

I know a little about breaks so I pulled the front wheels off and checked the pads. Even wear on both sides and still plenty of pads. I had bought a set of pads just incase and it looks like there was just as much on the new ones as on the truck.

Pads are fine, roters spin fine and I can see no damage to them or warping.

I have an idea what that narrows the problem down to, but would like to see what ya'll think.

 

Caliper sticking?

 

I would check the rear shoes for adjustment. Pulls to the right- check the left rear it probably needs adjusted tighter. A very common problem. I would go ahead and do the upgrade to the gm wheel cylinders too. Don't have the part number handy. Do a google search and you will find it.

 

Napa #4637337

 

I had the very same problem except that mine would yank to the left. Under emergency braking, it would darn near change lanes - very unsettling and very unsafe. I changed both front calipers. Minus the core charge, I think I paid $65/each at NAPA for the heavy duty ones (they came with new pads). Very easy to do and, if you have a one-man brake bleeder bottle, it's easy to bleed the brakes, too.

Just my $.02. Good luck.

 

Sticking calipers is a real possibility. My 1996 3500 did this for a couple of months, but I ignored it. BIG MISTAKE!!! The right front caliper finally stuck as we were towing our 5th wheel in Houston traffic. Before I reached our destination where I could pull off and stop, smoke was pouring out of the right front and it smelled like the truck was on fire. I jumped out, fire extinguisher in hand.

That one cost me a new caliper, pads, rotor, wheel bearings, seals, brake hose, etc......

Rusty

 

Alright, so concensus (sp) is that its time to replace the calipers on the front end. Thats exactly what I thought I had to do, just really didnt want to do it. I will take care of it as soon as I get back from the Annual NRA convention in Houston. Thankfully I am flying not driving!

 

Not necessarily. It could be a piston sticking in the caliper, or it could be the floating caliper sticking on the guide pins. If it's the latter, no sense in changing a caliper just for drill.

I'd start by pulling the calipers, cleaning the guide pins and guide pin bores thoroughly and lubricating them with the mouse milk of your choice (I like a good anti-seize compound, but that's just me - others use high temp brake grease).

Rusty

 

I agree with RustyJC---start with a thorough inspection and cleaning first---both front and rear. Often, neglected rear brakes will come back to life with a cleaning, lubing and maybe a new hardware kit, if required. Anti-sieze is good. I've had good luck with di-electric grease as well...seems to hold up to the heat better. By inspecting and cleaning, you'll become more familiar with the system and will have a reference if problems re-occur in the future...plus, to inspect, clean and adjust is FREE, and it may just solve your problem without throwing parts at it
greg

 

Mmmmm.... Free!

 

Pull, clean real well, and lube the caliper sliding pins (bolts) and holes very lightly.
Make sure the rubber boots around the pins are good.
Clean the area around the boot for the piston on the calipers.
Take a wire wheel to the sliding surfaces on the calipers and the mounting brackets.
Put a very light, just a very light, smear of grease on the sliding surfaces on the calipers and mounting brackets. I use heavy duty wheel bearing grease.
If all of this don't work, replace the calipers AND both hoses. Hoses can swell shut and not allow fluid to get to the caliper or can degrade inside to the point where the rubber cracks and acts like a check valve.
My truck has over 160000 miles on it right now and I still have the original brake pads and calipers and they still have well over half lining left. Mine will stop arrow straight and the rotors are free to turn by hand. I do the clean the caliper thing every spring. I also change the brake fluid every spring. I also never do anything to one side that I don't do to the other.
Hope this helps.

 

Indeed it does! I plan to do just that!

This truck has 190K on it as of now, I plan to see 500K minimum before I get rid of it. Thing is I picked it up at 182K in Dec so it needs a bit of TLC to get her where I want her and so I am slowly doing just that.

 

Try replacing the left side brake line. When they get old, they break down and collapse inside which prevents fluid from reaching the caliper, thus you get one side grabbing. Replacement lines are usually cheap, although I haven't replaced one on my CTD truck, just past Ford's, GM's, etc.