lost clutch last night
#1
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lost clutch last night
clutch has been fine, ive slipped it too much a couple times and got it hot to where it wouldnt grab...but for my power level it holds great.
last night pulling out of a parking lot i pushed the clutch in and hit the brakes and the truck kept pulling, i was able to pop the shifter out of 2nd into nuetral, and pushed the clutch in again and there was NO pedal pressure...its nothing there.
I can see no fluid leaking and the reservior is as full as can be. When pushing the pedal down i can hear air rushing somewhere around the firewall, near where the cylinder is located that is attached to the pedal.
im hoping its just a hydraulic issue, and not the clutch itself...anyone have any suggestions
last night pulling out of a parking lot i pushed the clutch in and hit the brakes and the truck kept pulling, i was able to pop the shifter out of 2nd into nuetral, and pushed the clutch in again and there was NO pedal pressure...its nothing there.
I can see no fluid leaking and the reservior is as full as can be. When pushing the pedal down i can hear air rushing somewhere around the firewall, near where the cylinder is located that is attached to the pedal.
im hoping its just a hydraulic issue, and not the clutch itself...anyone have any suggestions
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Pilot Bearing. Either the neddles fell down between the plate/flywheel or they have bound on the input shaft. I would recommend going with an after market bearing/bushing. South Bend sells a kevlar one. Quad4x4 sells a couple of sealed ball bearing ones. All of them require the flywheel to be bored. I wish I had a local option to get one when I did my clutch. Now I am pulling my trans. out again ( fourth time, twice due to a bad from factory clutch) while I have the truck down anyway to replace it.
If you do it yourself and go with a bushing make sure the input shaft is smooth. It will just tear up the new one if not. This is not as critcal with the BB (why I choose it). The other option is to upgrade your input shaft and flywheel/clutch to use the 13" clutch. If you got the dollars.
Randy
If you do it yourself and go with a bushing make sure the input shaft is smooth. It will just tear up the new one if not. This is not as critcal with the BB (why I choose it). The other option is to upgrade your input shaft and flywheel/clutch to use the 13" clutch. If you got the dollars.
Randy
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Your right, missied your trans. If you can afford it, Yes. I did that and got a bad clutch. I had not had any problems before. Don't go stock, there are several options that will start a debates. Look at your options, decide what things are important to you (quality vs. price, customer service, time you have to fix it), and then make your choice.
Randy
Randy
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unfortunately i wasnt expecting this and dont have alot saved up to go with a nice SBC...so i am gonna have to go with something a little cheaper, but something that will hold the power i am making currently.
that would be the LUK cermatallic kit, its under $600 bucks and yes i know all bout peter's customer service and wish i could get a SBC, but i will get the LUK for now, and save up to go a ll out with a SBC DD in the future.
that is unless i find out its something simple like a master cylinder/slave cylinder on the clutch pedal
that would be the LUK cermatallic kit, its under $600 bucks and yes i know all bout peter's customer service and wish i could get a SBC, but i will get the LUK for now, and save up to go a ll out with a SBC DD in the future.
that is unless i find out its something simple like a master cylinder/slave cylinder on the clutch pedal
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I had to do the same. Luk had some other option for the 5 speed. You might check a little for yours. ASK them questions. It was only after I had problems with the first OEM and was dealing directly with the distributer that I was told about the HD version (not the cermetalic). It is "rated" for 100 ' lbs over stock. They could have something for the 6 speed.
Not that I doubt any of the reasons people use for SB but the price vs. product seems out of range to me. If I was throwing $6-$10K a year in my truck it would not be an issue. But I don't have that money.
Randy
P.S. The HD version of mine was only $60 more the oem.
Not that I doubt any of the reasons people use for SB but the price vs. product seems out of range to me. If I was throwing $6-$10K a year in my truck it would not be an issue. But I don't have that money.
Randy
P.S. The HD version of mine was only $60 more the oem.
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