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Lift Pump Clarification

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Old May 18, 2005 | 11:49 AM
  #1  
99NVRam2500's Avatar
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From: NV
Lift Pump Clarification

No I am just a hillbilly that trys to simplify things. This LIFT pump is just an Electric FUEL PUMP right? What would the harm be in eliminating the LIFT pump and just installing a Holley Blue down by the tank. And why could you just pigtail into the existing Lift Pump wiring? Everyone keeps talking relay this, jumper that? I would appreciate some training on this subject.

Also, You can tell I am a diesel NEWBY, I have owned my truck 3 years, and I change the oil every 3000 miles, seems to me after reading everyones posts that this might be to often. maybe thats why my oil looks clean 2000 miles into a run, and my buddies is blacker than all get out the day after he changes his oil.. Thanks again.
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Old May 18, 2005 | 12:16 PM
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From: Tenn.
Welcome to the site, many hours of good reading on the many posts.
Yep, BigBlue runs that pump combo. He's frequently on the 24 Valve High Perf. forum on this site.
People generally do what they perceive as correct regarding oil and changes....many opinions on that subject.
Have you installed your lift pump fuel pressure guage yet?
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Old May 18, 2005 | 12:36 PM
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99NVRam2500's Avatar
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From: NV
I read somewhere that a guy just put a cheapo gauge directly on the pump. I am gonna do this while I am funding together the complete gauge set. I am gonna do Trans temp/boost/EGT on the pillar, and the FP on the steering column. but it will be a month or so (AFTER DIVORCE).
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Old May 18, 2005 | 03:52 PM
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fuel pressure gauge is only about $35 or so, mechanical without the isolator. do it right the first time and save yourself some money by purchasing the gauge that will be used inside your cab. fuel pressure gauge that mounts at the pump will tell you very minimal information, idle fuel pressure. idle pressure gives a false sense of security, full load is when you need to keep an eye on it...not going to happen if the gauge is under the hood.

if you do go this route, you might need to put your FP gauge in the A pillar because there might be some difficulties routing the pressure line from the steering mount to the pump.


Pat
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Old May 18, 2005 | 05:58 PM
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From: Saskatchewan, Canada
Check the picture in my gallery. One Holley black on frame with existing wiring extended. 13 idle, 11 highway, never ever got it below 9.
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Old May 19, 2005 | 11:40 AM
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99NVRam2500's Avatar
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Holiday, I was looking at my lift pump last night, can I just piggy back the holley black wires off the lift pump. seems like it might be a little bit of a pain in the rear to take the lift pump out.
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Old May 19, 2005 | 07:06 PM
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I am not sure what you are trying to do. I eliminated the lift pump on the engine completely so I took everything off and ran a new fuel line directly to the filter inlet and just extended the stock harness. If you were thinking of running both pumps you should run seperate power to the Holley with a relay triggered by the stock lift pump wiring.
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Old May 19, 2005 | 09:15 PM
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From: Terryville, Ct
I mounted a Holley Red pusher on the frame, ran -6an aeroquip line from the tank to the pump then to the factory lift pump, replaced all lines to the injector pump
and replaced all the fittings with aeroquip from summit. Tapped into pigtail and added relay. Before upgrade 10 at idle after upgrade 17 at idle and 13 at WOT.
The systems a year old with no problems, and if the Holley goes south the factory pump should get me off the road to Advanced Auto for a replacement. Keep the receipt, the warranty is good for a year and any Advanced Auto will honor the exchange.
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