i just had to replace my front rotors because they were warped so i decided to try the wheel cylinder upgrade.
i installed them tonight and i noticed they are a little better than before but not a great improvement like some people have mentioned. I did bleed them after installation. do i need to give them time to self adjust or am I missing something?

 

It may be a good idea to see where the adjustment is, but I don't think that's the problem. You don't mention the year or model of the truck, but several years of 2500 used a load-sensing proportioning valve to limit the effectiveness of the rear brakes unless the box is loaded. If your truck has this, you will gain less from the larger cylinders.

 

i adjusted the brakes fairly close to the drums when i put everything back together.
i think i do have the proportioning valve. i will check to make sure..

is there a way to trick or bypass the proportioning valve?

will it make the rear brakes TOO strong? i dont want the rears locking up or anything. i had a problem with that at one time...

 

Mine lock the rears if I stab the brakes hard. When I did mine I noticed an improvement in the braking. I think mine might be one of the last of the rear drum brakes. My setup is differernet from the normal rear setup. My top pin is bolted in from the back. From what I've seen all the others, if is not that way. I do believe I have that load sensesing valve. I have heard of disconnecting it and tying the rod up?? that would increase the rear bias but might have a tendency to lock more. I just redid my rear brakes, replaced 1 drum and new shoes. The rears brakes are much better now. Also the last years of the drums used the biggest rear wheel cylinders so like said before the difference in piston area is not aas great as say doing this on a 90's truck.

 

You can relocate the lower joint of the rod for the prop. valve to a little higher up on the axle.
Redneck style to test it's efficiency is to ziptie it to a higher position

AlpineRAM

 

I've installed quite a few of the larger cylinders for folks, it seems like most don't notice how much better the brakes are until they get in a situation where the brakes are needed more urgently. After a few fast stops the driver gets used to the improved braking with the larger cylinders and forgets how bad they were before the cylinders.

 

Anyway, on the trucks with the load sensing valve, there is a Chrysler bulletin involving a hose that will bypass the valve.

 

Try doing the 'back up to 5mph, then hit the brakes a couple of times' to adjust the rears. Did you clean the adjusters while you were in there? After doing mine, and using the self adjust, I noticed an improvement, an even bigger improvement when towing and/or need to stop NOW.

 

No need for speed for the adjustors to work, less than 1 mph will do. What is important is that you come to a complete stop in reverse without letting up on the brakes.

Problem is it's very common on these trucks for one or both of the self adjustors not to work. Best practice is to adjust by hand at every oil change or when the truck starts pulling to one side while braking.