I need to install a new lift pump. Can someone who is somewhat mechanically inclined do this without too much trouble? I have the lift pump and was wondering if there were any special things I should know before jumping off into this by myself.

Thanks
Gary

 

Main thing I'd recommend is if you just picked up a stock replacement, take it back and get a better one and relocate it to the frame rail near the tank. I went with a 95gph FASS system from Diesel Performance Products; it installs on the frame rail by the tank and replaces the stock lift pump & filter assembly, and also removes water, air, and vapor from the fuel before delivering it to the injection pump. It comes with all the hardware including new fuel line & wiring harness and very clear instructions on how to install and maintain it. Diesel-Dan from DPP will probably see this thread any time now and tell you all about it. The stock lift pumps are nortorious for failing and are just in a bad location (pumps push fluid much more easily & efficiently than they pull it.) I went through 2 stock lift pumps in 3 year's time before going with the FASS.

 

I guess I can install this original type lift to get back on the road and then look at the FASS. I will have to save a little money for that one.

Thanks again
Gary

 

Installing the pump is not bad...but it takes patience. Also...remove the dipstick so you don't break it like I did. I reached down from the top and loosened everything and re assembled. Be sure to use new banjo washers and don't overtighten.

When my second lift pump died, I moved it to the framerail, and I have not changed one since. I don't have a FASS either. I would second what was said above, Go ahead, and get some 3/8 id hose, and mount the pump on the framerail. You will need to cut the SS delivery line but 3/8id hose fits right over it. Run the 3/8 hose from the LP up to the filter. This will help with flow issues to...a little.

Moving the pump isolates it from engine heat and vibration, and also puts it in an easy access position.

Many people spend a lot of money on expensive lift pumps, others like me manage with the carter pumps, or Holley Blue pump. It depends on your power needs and application.

-Good luck!

 

I was wondering if you could pump through the old lift pump like we used to when mechanical ones went out and we just added an elec. to our old gassers.
Mounting to the frame rail sounds like the best way to go. Thanks for the information.

Gary

 

The OEM pumps have a bypass so the VP can keep sucking fuel...but I think keeping the dead pump in line would be a significant restriction to the flow of fuel. It would be better to bypass it all together. I hope it all works out for you!
-Geoff

 

GaryBG - Did you get your LP in? I'm trying to replace mine today. Kind of challenge to get the 3 13mm nuts off the top of the pump. Not a lot of room to work in, but with slow going, I might get it off tomorrow morning. Next challenge will be get the new one in. I hope I can get two hands in there at one time: One to hold the pump in location, and other to thread the nut on.

 

I don't know if yours is a 4x4 or not, but going from underneath was easy for me to do to get the old pump out. But I don't have a driveshaft in the way. Never had to put a stock LP back, but if I were to do it, I'd try from underneath.

 

I have a 4x4 so I went through the top. I would suggest removing the air horn and fuel filter canister as well as tying the dipstick tube to the side. After that it is a really simple remove and replace operation. Be sure to get all new seal washers as mentioned above. I would also suggest borrowing a torque wrench from an auto parts store. If you're not "mechanically inclined", you may have a tendancy to overtorque the banjos..

 

No fear, the first time into the LP and I had it out in less that 20 min, not knowing what is where. The hardest part was disconnecting the harness with one hand, reaching into the engine compartment. It helped climbing on top of the fender with knees on the top radiator frame and valve cover, to reach in with two hands. After that it was a piece of cake.
-P

 

I had written a step by step procecdure for replacement and it was posted on here somewhere even with wrench sizes and all. Can't seem to locate it now. I got good enough, I had it down to 35 minutes start to stop including removal of the stock filter housing and all. When the fourth one went out along side the road the day before Thanksgiving on the way back from Arkansas when it was 28 degrees out that morning, that was the last one. I went to FASS three years ago and have never changed the filter or drained the separator since. Still holding 17 psi.

I also bought one of the hang on tire stands from AW Direct and it is well worth the $40 it costs. It gets you right to the right level for work it over the fender.

http://www.awdirect.com/finditem.cfm?itemid=17481

Found the link/

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

 

I recommend moving the pump to the frame rail using the Vulcan Performance kit. It helps with pump life and should the need arise, easily replaced.

 

Hey man real simple answer to your question, remove the 2 bolts from the fuel filter & lay it out of the way. Then you have direct overhead access to the 3 nuts ,pump,& harness. I would take that stock pump back & get the one Napa sells called the 4601HP. You have the 4601. It will bolt right up in the same location, you may have to make you a couple of hose fittings, but not sure on your setup in 2002. The 4601 HP does not neeed to be put on the frame rail or any other voodoo. My original 4601 HP has been in for at least 150K miles, maybe more., still doin 13 lbs at WOT.

 

You know they are the same pump. Same as what you get at the dealer, cummins, autozone, summit, etc.

I have had 2 failures in the last yr from the napa sold carter, not a big deal and it's on someone else's dime so that what I use. Just did the vulcan relocate on Sat, very happy.

BTW the 4601 is only 6-8 psi pump and is not an oem pump.

 

After a Carter pump failed in less than a year I installed a Walbro 392 kit from
http://www.wideopendiesel.com/page4.html about a month ago. It is working good so far.