Removal:
1. Disconnect both negative battery cables.
2. Thoroughly clean fuel lines at cylynder head, injection pump ends, injection pump, and supply and return lines. I used aresol brake cleaner, two to three cans should be plenty.
3. Disconnect 9-way electrical connector at fuel pump module.
4. Remove fuel line at side of injection pump by removing overflow valve (looks like a large banjo bolt). Use a rag excess fuel will run out.
5. Remove fuel supply line at side of injection pump by removing banjo bolt. Also remove same line at the top of the fuel filter housing (banjo bolt).
6Remove all high-pressure fuel lines(injector lines), intake air tube, accelerator pedal position sensor (apps), air intake housing, engine oil dipstick tube, wiring clips, electrical cables at grid heater, and engine lifting bracket.
7. Unscrew the plastic access cap at front gear cover. This is the breather tube comes out.

WARNING to keep the key way from falling into the gear housing, engine must be rotated until keyway is at the 12 o'clock position. Use a mirror. If the gear nut, washer or key drop into the housing, cover may have to be removedto retrieve the BEFORE engine is started.

8. Remove the nut and washer holding the injection pump gear to the injection pump shaft.
9. The engine can be rotated with a barring tool( Snap-On No. SP371, Cummins tool Div. MTE No. 3377371) I used a large screw driver on the flt wheel teeth, since someone "borrowed" the barring tool. The opening for the barring tool is on locatedin the rear flange of the engine on the passenger side. You will have to remove the rubber access plug.
10. Insert barring tool into flywheel opening. Take the truck ouof gear if it has a manual tranny.
11. Rotate engine until keyway is at the 12 o'clock position.
12. Use T-bar type puller (4" size)to seperate the gear from the shaft. Put engine back in gear to help keep engine from turning. Attach two M8 X 1.25 MM (metric) screws/bolts through the puller and into the two threaded holes supplied on the gear. Pull the pump gear foward until it loosens fron the injection pump shaft ( it is tight and will POP when it comes loose). pull only until it is loose from the shaft! Pulling the gear to far can damage or break the gear cover.
13. Remove 3 lower pump bracket bolts and remove lower pump bracket. loosen but do not remove 2 engine bracket bolts (to remove the bracket from the pump you will need a torks head tool, large size, can't remember which one).
14. Remove 4 injection pump-to-gear housing mounting nuts.
15. Remove injection pump from gear housing. Don't nick the aluminum housing with the pump shaft and don't drop the keyway!!!
CAUTION Do not attempt to crank or rotate the engine at the point!!
16. Inspect pump mounting surfaces and o-rings.
17. Clean injection pump mounting flange with brake cleaner. Also clean front of the injection pump.
18. Install ne rubber O-ring at pump mounting area.
19.Apply clean engine oil to pump O-ring only. The machine tapers on the shaft and gear must be absolutley dry and clean!!!
20. Clean shaft and gear with brake cleaner.
21. The pump/gear key way has an arrow and a 3-digit number stamped at the top edge. Position keywy into pump shaft with arrow pointed to rear of pump. Also be sure the 3-digit number of the keyway is the sameas the 3-digit number stamped on the injection pump data plate. If the wrong key is installed a error code will be set and will probably be out of time.
22. Position pump to mounting flange on gear cover while aligning injection pump shaft through back of pump gear ( can be a little tricky). Dowel on mounting flange must align with hole in front of pump.
23. after pump is flat the the flange finger tighten the four pump mounting nut. Don't try to tighten pump at this time (pull pump to gear cover).
24. Follow this sequence in tightening the bolts and nuts.
a. Install injection shaft washer and nut to pump shaft.
finger tight only.
b. position lower pump braket and nut, finger tight only.
c. Do preliminary tightening of injection pump shaft nut to
30 Nm (15-22 ft. lbs.). Thgis is not the final torque.
d. Tighten 4 pump mounting nuts to 43 Nm (32 ft/ lbs.).
e. tighten the lower pump bracket to pump bolts [b]24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)[b]
f. tighten engine bracket to engine bolts [b] 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)[b]
g. Do final tightening of injection pump shaft nut to [b]170 Nm (125 ft. lbs.)[b].

25. install plastic access cap to front gear cover.
26. install all the high pressure fuel lines, intake air tube, APPS, air intake housing, dip stick, wiring clips, grid heater cables.
27. Use new banjo bolt gasketsinstall fuel return and supply lines in the order that they came off.
28. Connect 9-way electrical connector to Fuel Pump Control Module.
29. Reconnect battery cables.
30. Prebleed the pump and supply fuel lines with the lift pump.
31. I bled the injector lines with # 1,3, and 4 injector lines cracked. make SURE that #2 is tight before putting on the air intake housing (don't ask how I know).
32. Check for fuel and oil leaks.

 

Are these instructions for VP44 replacement?<br><br>Or another injection pump?<br><br><br>phox

 

their for a VP-44.thanks for the post, im changing mine on saturday and wanted a second set of instructions to compare with...a word to the wise... SPLICE THE WIRE= $1200.00....TRUST ME ( at least on the 98 and 99 pumps) im also installing a pusher pump between the tank and the LP...im hoping this helps, the guy said its rebuilt w/ all the latest mod's to the vp-44...any feed back would be appreciated...anyone know if this pump w/ the pusher added will be ok w/ splicing the wire?? ( im doing it anyway, im addicted)