for the do-it yourselfer to replace a clutch? mine is starting to give me some problems and I think its about due...Im pretty sure its stock with 129K on it.
Ive only replaced a clutch in a 47 Jeep before, and im sure this is a lot different. Would it just be best to get someone else to do this for me?\
Thanks!

Patrick

 

i'm not too sure about hard for sure but, a guy i know did it on his truck (was a first time deal) and he started after lunch and it took him well after midnight with the help of his son. he got the CHILTON manual or something like that and he got it done and worked great.

that's my 2cents but i know someone else can help out more but in my opinion, i would do it yourself b/c, you'll save on labor charges, you'll know it's done right, and you'll have a good learning experience in the process.

good luck

 

Are you sure that the clutch is toast?? I had problems with mine about the same mileage as you state you have, and I determined that the master cylinder which activates the clutch had bought the farm. I replaced slave and master cylinder with DC assembly (about 230 bucks and 1 hour) and all is good now on original clutch at 180K miles. Pull the up the rubber boot where the clutch rod goes thru firewall and look for a small amount of fluid (dampness) in the boot. It might save ya a few bucks and a case of beer (to pay helper to help drop/raise tranny).

Good luck,

Gary

 

Biggest problem will be the weight - that ain't no Chevy\Ford three-speed, and it don't balance too easy on a floor jack.

Second biggest problem will be removing the gearshift lever from the stub lever, then removing the stub, so you can move the trans far enough back to get it out of the bell-housing.

The engine pan prevents lowering the engine enough to get the job done if the lever and stub are not removed.

Unless, of course, you cut the floorpan back behind the shifter hole.

The shift lever tool is 125 bucks, without a finger-print on it.

 

Hey thanks for all the help guys! Im going to take a good hard look at the master cylinder before I do anything...I meant to do that before i posted anything about it, but i totally forgot. The problem im having is that the clutch will slip a bit going from 1st to 2nd gear, and then it will catch suddenly and make the truck lunge forward a bit..its not real noticeable, but its still bugging me!

 

I put a new clutch in last weekend and it isn't bad if you have a good tranny jack and a port-a-power(for the crossmember). I Have done an auto tranny before but this was the first time doing a clutch and I thought it went pretty well i only used a handful of delightful cusswords.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/

Here is a link for you to look at it has step by step instructions for a clutch job. Maybe after reading through it you can make a better decision as to if you are ready to tackle it or not.

 

Hey thanks, thats exactly what I need! Pictures are my best friend

 

Port a power not necessary. If you have a 4x4 block of wood bout + or - 24” long, drill a hole in the end of the block bout 3 – 4” deep, big enough for the bottle jack end to fit in. Place in between frame rail and spread!! Save the money on renting port a power and use it on good tranny jack!! Heavy as well you know

 

the bottle jack and wood set up works too. I just didn't have an extra set of hands to help hold it all up, plus I have access to a port-a-power.

Ratat98 good to see the link help you out. It really isn't a tough job, but it can be very time consuming. Also those instructions say to use blue lock tite on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, but I used red lock tite (per peter at SouthBend Clutch).

 

If your clutch was slipping it would do it more in 4th and 5th gear.

What your feeling when going from 1st to 2nd might just be clutch chatter from hot spots on the flywheel.

In any case, to much chatter will eventually tear up the clutch disk or pressure plate and you'll be replacing it then.

Usually if the master cylinder is the problem, the truck would be hard to get into gear. And sometimes at a stop light with it in gear and the clutch depressed, it might start to grab and lunge forward on its own, due to loss of pressure in the master slave cylider.

...............Jim