help with wheels...
help with wheels...
I need some help guys and gals (?)..
I am going to purchase new wheels soon...
I currently have what is in my sig (they came with the purchase of the truck)...16x10 with IIRC a -24 offset and I cant remember the backspacing I have the reciept just cant find it right now.
I hate them....they stick out sooooo far beyond the wheel well it just looks tacky.
I want to go with these...
http://www.racelinewheels.com/p-749-...e-8-black.aspx
I am going to stay with 35's....but have mixed results when asking wheels shops about BS and offset...
one shop recommended a 4.5" with -12 to get the tires to stick out just about to the "*****" or about 3/4"-1" which is what I want...
Another shop said if I went that route I would rub all day long turning...I asked how when I have a 4.5" lift and he couldnt explain it..
Another shop said 4.75" with 0 offset. should get me the look I want.
I just want the tires to hold inside the wheel well and maybe stick out an inch or the portion of the sidewall tread *****...
Hear are my options:
16x8 8x6.5 +0mm 4.5"
17x9 8x6.5 +6mm 5.25"
17x9 8x6.5 +0mm 5.0"
17x9 8x6.5 -12mm 4.5"
I really want 16" wheels...but that limits tire options these days..
based upon what the first shop said, who does ALOT of lifts and wheels in the area....my best bet is the last option...
What do I need...
Thanks
Jake
I am going to purchase new wheels soon...
I currently have what is in my sig (they came with the purchase of the truck)...16x10 with IIRC a -24 offset and I cant remember the backspacing I have the reciept just cant find it right now.
I hate them....they stick out sooooo far beyond the wheel well it just looks tacky.
I want to go with these...
http://www.racelinewheels.com/p-749-...e-8-black.aspx
I am going to stay with 35's....but have mixed results when asking wheels shops about BS and offset...
one shop recommended a 4.5" with -12 to get the tires to stick out just about to the "*****" or about 3/4"-1" which is what I want...
Another shop said if I went that route I would rub all day long turning...I asked how when I have a 4.5" lift and he couldnt explain it..
Another shop said 4.75" with 0 offset. should get me the look I want.
I just want the tires to hold inside the wheel well and maybe stick out an inch or the portion of the sidewall tread *****...
Hear are my options:
16x8 8x6.5 +0mm 4.5"
17x9 8x6.5 +6mm 5.25"
17x9 8x6.5 +0mm 5.0"
17x9 8x6.5 -12mm 4.5"
I really want 16" wheels...but that limits tire options these days..
based upon what the first shop said, who does ALOT of lifts and wheels in the area....my best bet is the last option...
What do I need...
Thanks
Jake
17" is the size rim I would go with.
The rubbing issue is usually the control arm so a lift isn't going to solve that one.
I would thinkk staying with the factory offset would be your best bet and use the width for the overhang adjustment. A good shop should be able to mount a few and show you what they will look like if they are selling you the wheels and tires, you are probably spending over $3000 here?
The rubbing issue is usually the control arm so a lift isn't going to solve that one.
I would thinkk staying with the factory offset would be your best bet and use the width for the overhang adjustment. A good shop should be able to mount a few and show you what they will look like if they are selling you the wheels and tires, you are probably spending over $3000 here?
So you would go with the:
17x9 8x6.5 -12mm 4.5"
To keep the BS at stock ???...the 9" wheel width is 1 inch wider than stock so the -12 offset corrects for that? (sucks the wheel back in)
do I have it right or what??
I hear ya about the control arms but if that be the case, why do you see people saying they run this and that usually 4-6" of lift and 35's or 37's with no problems...
I would have figured that with a 4.5 inch lift and 35's, if people can do 6" with 37's and no problems, I should be able to get away with my current 4.5" and 35's
Or should I go the:
17x9 8x6.5 +0mm 5.0"
that is a 1" wider wheel and .5" more backspacing which sticks my wheel out of the wheel well 1.5"...
I really am lost when I comes to BS and Offset...
Thanks
Jake
17x9 8x6.5 -12mm 4.5"
To keep the BS at stock ???...the 9" wheel width is 1 inch wider than stock so the -12 offset corrects for that? (sucks the wheel back in)
do I have it right or what??
I hear ya about the control arms but if that be the case, why do you see people saying they run this and that usually 4-6" of lift and 35's or 37's with no problems...
I would have figured that with a 4.5 inch lift and 35's, if people can do 6" with 37's and no problems, I should be able to get away with my current 4.5" and 35's
Or should I go the:
17x9 8x6.5 +0mm 5.0"
that is a 1" wider wheel and .5" more backspacing which sticks my wheel out of the wheel well 1.5"...
I really am lost when I comes to BS and Offset...
Thanks
Jake
A lot of people refer to rubbing as the fender/bumper area front or rear, which messes up the fender. I run one size over stock height and width and rub the passenger side control arm, which is no biggie, it doesn't damage the tire or the control arm.
If you don't want your rig to look like a roller skate, choose the -12mm offset, but expect to rub the arm and maybe lose some turning radius.
An outward offset of 1.5" may not look too bad but if you are in California you may need to have flares and mudflaps, IIRC. Plus you'lll sling a lot of debris onto your truck when its wet out.
Personally I have always thought our trucks look best with the tires tucked and a 4" lift, 35" max, but thats' just me....
If you don't want your rig to look like a roller skate, choose the -12mm offset, but expect to rub the arm and maybe lose some turning radius.
An outward offset of 1.5" may not look too bad but if you are in California you may need to have flares and mudflaps, IIRC. Plus you'lll sling a lot of debris onto your truck when its wet out.
Personally I have always thought our trucks look best with the tires tucked and a 4" lift, 35" max, but thats' just me....
A lot of people refer to rubbing as the fender/bumper area front or rear, which messes up the fender. I run one size over stock height and width and rub the passenger side control arm, which is no biggie, it doesn't damage the tire or the control arm.
If you don't want your rig to look like a roller skate, choose the -12mm offset, but expect to rub the arm and maybe lose some turning radius.
An outward offset of 1.5" may not look too bad but if you are in California you may need to have flares and mudflaps, IIRC. Plus you'lll sling a lot of debris onto your truck when its wet out.
Personally I have always thought our trucks look best with the tires tucked and a 4" lift, 35" max, but thats' just me....
If you don't want your rig to look like a roller skate, choose the -12mm offset, but expect to rub the arm and maybe lose some turning radius.
An outward offset of 1.5" may not look too bad but if you are in California you may need to have flares and mudflaps, IIRC. Plus you'lll sling a lot of debris onto your truck when its wet out.
Personally I have always thought our trucks look best with the tires tucked and a 4" lift, 35" max, but thats' just me....
I want them tucked back more...I fling mud, water, debris etc all winter long... I HATE IT...
But I purchased the truck with the wheels, and tires and the tread was about 80% when I purchased it...there was no way I was gonna replace wheels and tires when they had that much tread..
Now they are just about shot...and I am going to replace them.
I want them as close to stock as possible. I dont want the wheels to narrow like 8" with say 315's cuz I will be killing the sidewall (sag) but 10" and improper BS and Offset makes them stick out tooooooooo far, which is what I have now.
I want them closer to stock, tucked under the wheel well as much as possible, maybe a little like .5 to 1" outside the well.
I am just lost.....I know the motor, tranny, interior, exterior, most of the electronics, but suspensions/wheel tire's are my weak point.
NCA
Man, I'd get a set of stock wheels and get a set of toyo 295/75/16s. They are almost 35" tall. And you won't have rubbing issues. Just today I took off my american racing wheels I had on the dodge and put my stock wheels back on. Had them powder coated black. I didn't realize how far the arws' made the tires stick out. I actually took off my home made mud gaurds too. Wish I woulda had these wheels powder coated a year ago before I bought aftermarket wheels
Where's Pittsburg California? I grew up in North San Diego County.
I have a friend who owns a tire shop down there and would be more than the man to talk to about this. He has experience and can answer these questions.
Kurt
I have a friend who owns a tire shop down there and would be more than the man to talk to about this. He has experience and can answer these questions.
Kurt
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N. Cali...East of Oakland 20 minutes.
I got it figured out, I called Raceline and spoke with a Tech.
He explained B.spacing and offset to me...
16x8 4.5"bs 0 offset is Stock for our trucks...or as close as can be...
An 8" wide wheel is measured bead to bead, but you need to take into consideration the wheel lip, which is 1/2" each side of the wheel from the bead.
so from lip to lip an 8" wide wheel is 9" wide...divide that by 2...you get 4.5"
with a 0 offset you get 4.5" from center.
a wheel that is say...17x9 5.25" BS +6 offset is explained like this..
17x9 is 10" wide lip to lip....divide that by 2 you get 5" the +6 offset is 1/4" to get you 5.25" off center.
Or with a negative offset it would be....17x9 4.5" BS -12 offset...
17x9 is 10"wide....divide by 2 is 5"....-12 is 1/2" or 4.5" from center.
offset is measured in millimeters...it took me a while to realize that...6MM equals 1/4" (or so close you cant measure it)
Now I just need to figure out my control arm issues and place my order...I am gonna go back a talk with the origional suspension shop I spoke with now that I have a better feel for the numbers.
PS...that 3000 dollar estimate you origionally had is way off....I should be able to get wheels tires mounted and balanced for 1700 or less...those wheels are a few years old and have come WAY down in price....all four should be had for 600 or less depending on shipping...and I have a guy locally that can get me a few different makes of 35's for under a grand.
I got it figured out, I called Raceline and spoke with a Tech.
He explained B.spacing and offset to me...
16x8 4.5"bs 0 offset is Stock for our trucks...or as close as can be...
An 8" wide wheel is measured bead to bead, but you need to take into consideration the wheel lip, which is 1/2" each side of the wheel from the bead.
so from lip to lip an 8" wide wheel is 9" wide...divide that by 2...you get 4.5"
with a 0 offset you get 4.5" from center.
a wheel that is say...17x9 5.25" BS +6 offset is explained like this..
17x9 is 10" wide lip to lip....divide that by 2 you get 5" the +6 offset is 1/4" to get you 5.25" off center.
Or with a negative offset it would be....17x9 4.5" BS -12 offset...
17x9 is 10"wide....divide by 2 is 5"....-12 is 1/2" or 4.5" from center.
offset is measured in millimeters...it took me a while to realize that...6MM equals 1/4" (or so close you cant measure it)
Now I just need to figure out my control arm issues and place my order...I am gonna go back a talk with the origional suspension shop I spoke with now that I have a better feel for the numbers.
PS...that 3000 dollar estimate you origionally had is way off....I should be able to get wheels tires mounted and balanced for 1700 or less...those wheels are a few years old and have come WAY down in price....all four should be had for 600 or less depending on shipping...and I have a guy locally that can get me a few different makes of 35's for under a grand.
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