Help with VP-44 removal!
Help with VP-44 removal!
Im stuck with limited access to tools but i am trying to replace my vp-44 myself. It appears that the previous owner rerouted the blowby tube and the trouble I am having is removing the access cover to get to the nut inside the gear cover? How exactly does this cover come off?
Thanks
Thanks
There's a real good series on youtube showing taking the vp off and putting it back on. Three things I did wrong when I did my vp, make sure the key is at 12 o'clock. Take the lines off in sets of three, in fact only the three on the outside need to be removed the inside set of three can be pushed aside to get the pump out. And last do alot of research and ask questions, knowledge goes along way. It's really not a bad job just take your time. That video on youtube will help alot. Leave as many clamps on the lines as possible, they can be hooked up wrong if all the clamps are off, I did it!
Good luck, hope this helps some.
Good luck, hope this helps some.
Thanks gwhammy...i did check out those videos and they are very informative. Im away at school right now and getting all the tools around is the hardest part because I have limited access to only the tools I carry with me in my truck.
Im hoping I can use a autozone steering wheel puller to pull the pump off the gear since I don't have the proper gear puller.
Im hoping I can use a autozone steering wheel puller to pull the pump off the gear since I don't have the proper gear puller.
this will help ya out.
Very good thread with a video.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=152404
Very good thread with a video.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=152404
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I think only a good steering wheel puller would work. My cheap one was tapers so it kept drawing the bolts off course (maybe it was jusst to small.)
And again Make sure the keyway is at 12 0clock, not the TDC mark like I did.
You can line the key up easily upside down, but you cant visually inspect that it is in all the way. That made me nervous I wasnt sure if I got it so I put the belt back on and spun it to 12 after the fact.
It made the job much easier having the rad out, it needed cleaning bad,
and it was easy to remove. I also extended the tube of the oil overflow bottle, it now will leak only on the steering gear. I found a 10" piece of 1" pvc works great, with the puke bottle lid of it fit perfect and secured well with a gear clamp.
A fan clutch barring tool was 7$ at princess auto and was invaluable, i think it was a 36mm wrench for the fan bolt.
Good luck
And again Make sure the keyway is at 12 0clock, not the TDC mark like I did.
You can line the key up easily upside down, but you cant visually inspect that it is in all the way. That made me nervous I wasnt sure if I got it so I put the belt back on and spun it to 12 after the fact.
It made the job much easier having the rad out, it needed cleaning bad,
and it was easy to remove. I also extended the tube of the oil overflow bottle, it now will leak only on the steering gear. I found a 10" piece of 1" pvc works great, with the puke bottle lid of it fit perfect and secured well with a gear clamp.
A fan clutch barring tool was 7$ at princess auto and was invaluable, i think it was a 36mm wrench for the fan bolt.
Good luck
I am also away at college right now and I did mine a few weeks ago. I feel your pain. I had to use like 5 different sets of tools. I also had to take the front wheels off to get it into the garage i had access to ha. Ya research is the key here i would say. I would have made countless mistakes if I hadnt taken advantage of all the youtube videos and stuff. One thing that I also found helpfull was to take the valve cover off to get to the inner most injection line. I just used the pullers that you can rent from auto zone if you have those where you are.
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