This is the ending update of another thread regarding hard starting.....

Turns out my grid heater is toast (pardon!) And it apparently melted the ends of the harness that hooks to it??? Anyone ELSE see this happen??

And what is the least expensive way to replace the heater? Was thinking that this can't be a common occurrence or I'd be reading more about it so perhaps picking one up 2nd hand might not be a bad way to go.

Someone with experience here? Anyone?

 

Solenoids might have stuck on and that's what melted it.

Ebay seller redliner usually has what you need. No way I would pay 500 bucks, I would put a set of Furd solenoids and a couple of push buttons before that.

 

just because the wiring is melted does not mean the grids are shot. they are easily tested, just use a jumper cable to power it up (use caution). more than likely the relays are stuck on or melted down, you might want to check/test the rest of the system to verify its condition

 

nick -

I asked the service writer about it and he said that yes, the heater was gone as well. But I would think just an ohm meter across the two terminals would determine if it's still functioning no?

 

The service writer will never work towards your intrest. I would double check their findings if it was me. most mechs working flat rate will change more stuff than they need to, because if something fails that they worked on they have to eat the repair the second time.

yes an ohm meter will work, just make sure your checking the right posts, there are two heaters stacked on top of each other, so put one lead to ground and the other on the grid post closest to the cab, (the posts closest to the rad should be the ground side).

My grids were stuck on for 12hrs (killed batterys) and it never hurt them, but I have read reports where wiring has melted/things were turned blue from heat, yours really must have been acting up!

 

Do you know what the correct reading should be?

 

Each of the 2 grid heaters draw about 90 Amps. Ohm's law says that the resistance, R=E/I or 12 volts / 90 Amps or about 0.13 ohms.
This is sometimes difficult to measure depending on how low a value your DVM can measure. If you measure from ground to the heater terminal. look for something close to zero. If the heater is bad, the measurement will be much higher or maybe infinite.

 

A check of the grids show them both shorted so they obviously need to be replaced. However, the dealership apparently removed all of the heater hardware save for the heater. The solenoids and wiring to the battery are no where to be found. The two mounting holes on the fender where they WERE appear to still be there so it's back to the dealer to find out what happened to my parts....

 

what do you mean shorted? if the grids are burned out you would have an open, if they are good you should see resistance which might look like a short, if you try to wire them to the battery even new ones will spark/snap as power is applied, the grids draw 90amps and can be confused with a short. what did your meter read?

good luck getting all your wiring/relays back. let me know if interested, you can wire up a set of ford starter relays for manual control of grids

 

Will have to check with my mechanic friend who tested it. I was putting pads on the rear when he said something. Perhaps I mis-heard him. He did print off a parts view of the relays which he described the same way - "Old ford setup..." and the wiring diagram. I'll know more later today when I stop at the dealer to get the parts...

 

If it isn't too late, Dealer is usually way over 100 bucks just for the solenoids, Rock Auto has the same exact part under the Standard brand for just north of 50. Every one I have gotten has had the OEM Mopar part number on it.

Past that it is only a couple of pieces of wire, usually on Ebay.

 

If the grid heaters are truly burnt out, is there a good option for parts aside from the dealer? When I questioned the service writer about these burning out being a common occurrence he said that the mechanic doesn't see them much but has. Would a replacement out of a junk yard be a reasonable option?

 

Picked up my parts from the dealer shop yesterday. The service writers had no idea why they weren't put in the truck. So, by "burnt connections", the rubber boot covering one of the power poles (from the battery) appears to have taken a little heat, melted slightly and disfigured. The harnesses themselves are fine, the connectors are all fine. I haven't tested the solenoids themselves yet.

 

The rubber boot over the power wire coming from the battery is covering a fusible link, check it with an Ohm meter to make sure it didnt burn thru.

As I said above, Solenoids are a replacement item, for the 50 bucks or so, I would definitely get on from Rock Auto.

If you need a new Heater itself, Ebay is your friend, always some on there.

 

Visited the RA site and don't know exactly where to look for the replacement solenoids? None listed under Fuel/Air, switches/relays or engine