My hubby is working so sometimes the only way to get work done on the cars is if I do it myself. So, thank you Costco for not noting the horrid condition of our front brakes when they put new tires on. I'm going to go ahead and replace rotors, pads and calipers. I'm at the point that I need to remove the rotor, but there's a big old axle nut in my way and since it is recessed I'm wondering what tool is best used to do that. Even if I could get it in there, our adjustable wrenches on hand aren't big enough. Advice, please!

 

PS. Anyone have a link to a how-to series? The Haynes guide is terrible.

 

Ugh, hon you have your hands full, especially a first timer.

First, you need a 1-11/16" socket, I prefer a 3/4" drive one, I got mine and a 3/4" drive breaker bar at a local farm supply store. Believe me, you want to soak that puppy for as long as possible with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Once the nut is off, them you have to remove the caliper, and the ( 4 ) 12 point bolts behind the spindle holding the unit bearing on. This can be a so and so, if you haven't learned sailor swearing, you will by the time these are off. A trick is Infidels power steering press trick, do a search here, and that might help immensely. Once you have the rotor/bearing assy off, then it is a relatively simple matter to drive the wheel studs out, and separate the rotor from the bearing. One thing to note, when you put the studs back in, you need to REALLY make sure they are driven all the way home, otherwise they will pull in all the way while you are driving, and you might lose a wheel or worse. I hate to say it, I have never had this happen, but I still check the lug torque after 25 miles and again at 100 miles.

This isn't terribly difficult from a technical standpoint, but it is tough, slug-fest, iron will required work, ESPECIALLY if you don't have a good selection of tools.

Watch this video, he screws up in the beginning, but shows you the correct way to remove the bearing at the end.

 

Oh yea, if you have 4 wheel ABS make sure you pull the sensor before you remove the wheel bearing!

 

Thanks, Brownie - I'm pretty tenacious and have replaced lots of things on this truck on my own (everyone say "Lift Pump"!) and like to learn, and I've already got a pretty good sailor-swear vocabulary!

 

you will learn.. this is a job that you will not want to do again for a long time.. so while it's apart... do the U-joints.. upper and lower ball joints as well... remember when you install the wheel bearing and brake apply a small amount (very thin film) of grease to the contact area between the bearing and the steering knuckle... this will make removing it in the future much easier

 

I need to run to the parts store...what size 12 point socket?

 

I think they are 9/16... but can't remember

 

14 MM rings a bell.

 

they're 14mm..12 point..

um..I would suggest taking the new rotor and stud to a shop and have them press them in..using the lug nut to force them in doesn't work very well..yes I tried..then took mine to a shop and pressed them in..now if you have a ball joint press..I one of those would work to press in the studs..

use lots of anti-seize during the reassembly..you be happier later that you did..

-dkenny