Fuel Pressure and Dead Pedal
10-11-2015, 09:36 PM
#61
Registered User
Well your dad's certainly a wise man..... 
Yes, I'd agree that you "could" potentially open yourself up to other issues by getting the FB. Thats why I kinda pointed out that I didn't want to lead you astray simply because of what I'd like to do. But if "reliability" is the topic of concern then switching to the FB would be the lesser of the two evils. Money is ALWAYS an important variable though.....
I agree with you that just getting a new FASS sounds like the easiest and cheapest route. But I dont know what to say about the adjustable one verses the regular old 95 pump. I'm really not sure I agree that the 95 isnt enough for your setup either. Its been said and understood throughout the years that a 100 gph pump is capable of supplying 400 hp on these engines. So that said, you should be perfectly fine with a 95, but maybe this is a better conversation for FASS. Taking the time to run 1/2" line from the tank to the VP will also assure maximum volume flow, least amount of fuel restriction, and the least amount of pressure drop. So maybe thats what you should be looking to do.
I bet if you research the pressures people run and can sustain with the FASS 95, you'll see that maintaining 15 psi and up is well within that pumps capacity.
Yes, I'd agree that you "could" potentially open yourself up to other issues by getting the FB. Thats why I kinda pointed out that I didn't want to lead you astray simply because of what I'd like to do. But if "reliability" is the topic of concern then switching to the FB would be the lesser of the two evils. Money is ALWAYS an important variable though.....I agree with you that just getting a new FASS sounds like the easiest and cheapest route. But I dont know what to say about the adjustable one verses the regular old 95 pump. I'm really not sure I agree that the 95 isnt enough for your setup either. Its been said and understood throughout the years that a 100 gph pump is capable of supplying 400 hp on these engines. So that said, you should be perfectly fine with a 95, but maybe this is a better conversation for FASS. Taking the time to run 1/2" line from the tank to the VP will also assure maximum volume flow, least amount of fuel restriction, and the least amount of pressure drop. So maybe thats what you should be looking to do.
I bet if you research the pressures people run and can sustain with the FASS 95, you'll see that maintaining 15 psi and up is well within that pumps capacity.
10-11-2015, 10:28 PM
#62
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well your dad's certainly a wise man..... Yes, I'd agree that you "could" potentially open yourself up to other issues by getting the FB. Thats why I kinda pointed out that I didn't want to lead you astray simply because of what I'd like to do. But if "reliability" is the topic of concern then switching to the FB would be the lesser of the two evils. Money is ALWAYS an important variable though.....
I agree with you that just getting a new FASS sounds like the easiest and cheapest route. But I dont know what to say about the adjustable one verses the regular old 95 pump. I'm really not sure I agree that the 95 isnt enough for your setup either. Its been said and understood throughout the years that a 100 gph pump is capable of supplying 400 hp on these engines. So that said, you should be perfectly fine with a 95, but maybe this is a better conversation for FASS. Taking the time to run 1/2" line from the tank to the VP will also assure maximum volume flow, least amount of fuel restriction, and the least amount of pressure drop. So maybe thats what you should be looking to do.
I bet if you research the pressures people run and can sustain with the FASS 95, you'll see that maintaining 15 psi and up is well within that pumps capacity.
Yes, I'd agree that you "could" potentially open yourself up to other issues by getting the FB. Thats why I kinda pointed out that I didn't want to lead you astray simply because of what I'd like to do. But if "reliability" is the topic of concern then switching to the FB would be the lesser of the two evils. Money is ALWAYS an important variable though.....I agree with you that just getting a new FASS sounds like the easiest and cheapest route. But I dont know what to say about the adjustable one verses the regular old 95 pump. I'm really not sure I agree that the 95 isnt enough for your setup either. Its been said and understood throughout the years that a 100 gph pump is capable of supplying 400 hp on these engines. So that said, you should be perfectly fine with a 95, but maybe this is a better conversation for FASS. Taking the time to run 1/2" line from the tank to the VP will also assure maximum volume flow, least amount of fuel restriction, and the least amount of pressure drop. So maybe thats what you should be looking to do.
I bet if you research the pressures people run and can sustain with the FASS 95, you'll see that maintaining 15 psi and up is well within that pumps capacity.
10-11-2015, 11:50 PM
#63
Registered User
Yes he is very wise, unfortunately I haven't always been wise enough myself to take his word for things lol. Anyway, I was for some reason thinking I had a lot more hp than I actually do(I was thinking of the torque number as the hp). So you are probably right that the 95gph would be fine. I'll still confirm it with FASS, assuming I can talk to them tomorrow. I want to make sure I can maintain 15psi at all times. The next issue I'm facing is that I think the adjustable and the filtered pump are the only options from them at this point. Other than the direct replacement of course, but I'm not a fan of that one. That will be another question for them tomorrow. I have a list lol
I dont know if FASS will be open tomorrow since its a holiday.
10-12-2015, 12:33 PM
#64
Registered User
Thread Starter
Fuel Boss
Well I went with the Fuel Boss. I was able to talk to FASS and Rich at Glacier Diesel today. I actually had decided on the FASS and ordered on from Extreme Diesel, but then I got an email back from Rich at Glacier and he changed my mind. I talked to him on the phone and he was able to build a kit for me with just the parts I need. He also confirmed that the truck will be just fine with no electric fuel pump. I was very happy to hear that as it simplifies things even more! My only concern, and it is a small one, is that the idle fuel pressure may be slightly lower than what I would like. He said it will probably be around 12psi but may be slightly higher or slightly lower. Apparently this is not a big deal though since it goes up as soon as you step on it. Everyone that has one of these seems very pleased. So I guess I shouldn't worry. It also comes with 3/8 line not 1/2, but he said the only one they ever used with half inch was on a dedicated pulling truck. That was because the pump needs to be bored out for bigger fittings to accommodate 1/2 in line. I should get it this week and have it installed by next weekend so ill follow up with updates and pictures!
10-12-2015, 02:02 PM
#65
Registered User
Sounds great and I'm anxious to see what you got and hear how it works out. Take LOTS of pictures.....
I wouldn't worry about the idle pressure either as the VP isnt under much strain at idle and the cooling is still taking place given the volume from the pump and everything ramps up from there.
The 3/8" line is ample too. Especially since the fuel pump productivity only goes up from idle. The larger fuel line is a benefit more with electric pumps because of the loss of volume as the fuel demand goes up. So to offset that loss the larger fuel lines act as a reserve which allows the fuel pump to achieve the same pressure and volume but while helping the reduction in pressure throughout. A mechanical pump doesn't have that problem.
Keep me posted.
I wouldn't worry about the idle pressure either as the VP isnt under much strain at idle and the cooling is still taking place given the volume from the pump and everything ramps up from there.
The 3/8" line is ample too. Especially since the fuel pump productivity only goes up from idle. The larger fuel line is a benefit more with electric pumps because of the loss of volume as the fuel demand goes up. So to offset that loss the larger fuel lines act as a reserve which allows the fuel pump to achieve the same pressure and volume but while helping the reduction in pressure throughout. A mechanical pump doesn't have that problem.
Keep me posted.
10-19-2015, 07:29 PM
#66
Registered User
Thread Starter
Update
Got the kit from GDP today! First impression is that it is very high quality! The adapter mount is very precisely machined. Unfortunately, I am extremely busy with work right now so I'm not sure if I'll get to work on installing it before the weekend, but I wanted to post a question. I was thinking that I wouldn't have to worry about the bypass valve since I'm running only mechanical. I was wrong. The pump doesn't have any way to relieve pressure so the bypass valve with a second return is a must. No big deal since the kit comes with a T to add at the filler neck. However, my question is, couldn't I just tap in the main return with a t? rather than have two return lines going all the way back? I emailed Rich at GDP to get his opinion but I wanted to post an update anyway so I figured I'd ask here too.
10-19-2015, 07:46 PM
#67
Registered User
Thread Starter
Update
Richard certainly knows how to provide good customer service! Just got an email back from him already! Unfortunately he said said that my idea won't work. He said the factory return is way to small to return all the fuel from the vp and the injectors and the fuel boss. I'll just have to spend a little extra time routing that extra return line neatly :-)
10-19-2015, 08:16 PM
#69
Registered User
Thread Starter
10-21-2015, 08:58 PM
#70
Registered User
Thread Starter
Update
I finally got stated on the fuel boss today. I got the mounting plate bolted to the oil pan and the crankshaft adapter and small pulley installed. It went fairly well although I did have a slight scare with the crank adapter. It is a very solid piece of machined steel with a hole in the back for the center part of the crank that sticks through the harmonic dampener. When I first started tightening it, it didn't seem like there was enough clearance and the dampener wasn't pulled tight against the crank. But once I torqued it down it seemed ok. I guess it's just very precisely machined. I was able to loosen the damper bolts and torque them back down with out holding the belt or alternator...I just left the truck in gear...it turned the engine some but not too much. I used black rtv on the screws for the mounting plate and blue loctite on the set screws on the pulleys as instructed (they didn't specify color of rtv or loctite so I just used what I thought was best) I took some pics and I will post them once I'm all done (hopefully the weekend).
I do have an unrelated question though. While under there I noticed that my oil return from the turbo seems to be leaking. I read about replacing the gasket and the piece of silicone hose that connects the two metal pipes. My question is, have you ever done this? And any idea how critical it is to get an oem piece of hose? Or could I just use any silicone hose from Napa? Oem is $40 so I'm trying to save a little...
I do have an unrelated question though. While under there I noticed that my oil return from the turbo seems to be leaking. I read about replacing the gasket and the piece of silicone hose that connects the two metal pipes. My question is, have you ever done this? And any idea how critical it is to get an oem piece of hose? Or could I just use any silicone hose from Napa? Oem is $40 so I'm trying to save a little...
10-22-2015, 08:55 AM
#71
Registered User
Sounds like its going together nicely. Thanks for the update.
As for the oil return line..... It must be a infrequent issue because in all the years I've been on these forums, you're only the second person I've heard talk about that line. But the other person was looking for advice about what to use since they claimed they could no longer find the OEM part.
Whatever you chose to do, just remember that the oil temp is going to be around 200*, give or take, so dont use something that cant take the heat.
As for the oil return line..... It must be a infrequent issue because in all the years I've been on these forums, you're only the second person I've heard talk about that line. But the other person was looking for advice about what to use since they claimed they could no longer find the OEM part.
Whatever you chose to do, just remember that the oil temp is going to be around 200*, give or take, so dont use something that cant take the heat.
10-22-2015, 05:35 PM
#72
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sounds like its going together nicely. Thanks for the update.
As for the oil return line..... It must be a infrequent issue because in all the years I've been on these forums, you're only the second person I've heard talk about that line. But the other person was looking for advice about what to use since they claimed they could no longer find the OEM part.
Whatever you chose to do, just remember that the oil temp is going to be around 200*, give or take, so dont use something that cant take the heat.
As for the oil return line..... It must be a infrequent issue because in all the years I've been on these forums, you're only the second person I've heard talk about that line. But the other person was looking for advice about what to use since they claimed they could no longer find the OEM part.
Whatever you chose to do, just remember that the oil temp is going to be around 200*, give or take, so dont use something that cant take the heat.
10-23-2015, 07:08 PM
#73
Registered User
Thread Starter
Update
So I just finished installing the return manifold in the filler neck and removing all the old fuel system components. Tomorrow I will be running the new lines and hooking it up. Just wanted to get your opinion on something. I was trying to decided on how to best route the new fuel lines and I decided the easiest and best thing would be to just run them through the frame rail and let them lay there. Up at the front I'll have to secure them with some rubber lined metal clamps I thing. Do you see any issue with running the lines inside the frame in the back? Say from the filler neck the the big hole by the transfer case?
10-23-2015, 07:13 PM
#74
Registered User
I dont see a problem with doing that since thats exactly what I did. Why have them dangling outside the rail when you can have them sitting safely inside and away from harm. The main issue though is getting them inside and down the rail without the line hanging up on stuff in there.
10-23-2015, 07:18 PM
#75
Registered User
Thread Starter
I dont see a problem with doing that since thats exactly what I did. Why have them dangling outside the rail when you can have them sitting safely inside and away from harm. The main issue though is getting them inside and down the rail without the line hanging up on stuff in there.