Fuel Pressure and Dead Pedal
10-23-2015, 07:32 PM
#76
Registered User
I have a short bed so if you have a long bed then the open holes in the frame might be different. But I had the lines go in right at the rail opening around half way along side the fuel tank. Then I had them come out by the transfer case where they're plumbed into the fuel pump mounted on the frame. Then they go back in the rail and come out about where the frame rail starts to bent upwards by the engine, where they lead up to the fuel filter housing. 
10-23-2015, 08:04 PM
#77
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have a short bed so if you have a long bed then the open holes in the frame might be different. But I had the lines go in right at the rail opening around half way along side the fuel tank. Then I had them come out by the transfer case where they're plumbed into the fuel pump mounted on the frame. Then they go back in the rail and come out about where the frame rail starts to bent upwards by the engine, where they lead up to the fuel filter housing.
10-24-2015, 05:54 PM
#78
Registered User
Thread Starter
Final Update! (Hopefully)
I finished up the Fuel Boss install today! Everything went fairly well and I posted the pictures in my gallery. If you would like any specific pictures that I didn't include just let me know. I did have a few issues I want to bring up. First off and probably most importantly, I DO NOT recommend this mod without first having a working fuel pressure gauge and a second test gauge. When I first tried to start the truck it fired right up. It died almost immediately though, after it burned through the little fuel that was left in the filter housing. I then had to just crank it a little at a time (10 second increments so as not to harm the starter). At one point I cracked open the inlet side of the fuel boss to make sure it was pulling fuel and it was. So I went back to cranking. Finally it started. Then I had 0 fuel pressure! I confirmed this with my Vulcan Test gauge and got about 1 psi so I figured it was just because the FB needed time to purge the air(the instructions warn that fuel pressure may be erratic at first). After a few mins I tried stepping on the gas to see if the pressure would come up. It did, but only to about 7 psi at 2000rpms. So I waited a little longer. Still nothing so I shut the truck down and opened up the bypass valve to check it. It is nothing more than a cylinder with a piston held in place by a spring. Once fuel pressure builds enough to compress the spring, excess fuel goes around the piston and is returned to the tank to prevent damage to the fuel system. Anyway I didn't see anything wrong with it so I put it back together and started the truck again. At first I still had 0 so I waited longer. After about 10-15 mins I came back and checked and I had 15 psi! I assumed all was well and my wife and I went to run some errands. It quickly became apparent that all was not well. Fuel pressure was still extremely erratic and throughout the course of our various stops I saw everything from 0 psi to 20 psi. Every time I started the truck I would only see 9 psi idle. I was very scared a few times as the pressure dropped to 5 psi on the highway and then to 0 as I got off at my exit! At first I didn't know what to do so I kept driving because I was only a few miles from home. Then it occurred to me that I could downshift and get my rpms and so my fuel pressure up.(hoping and praying I didnt hurt my VP44!) That got me 10 psi for the rest of the way home. When I got home I pulled the bypass valve again and it was full of sediment! I cleaned it out with brake cleaner and compressed air. After I reinstalled it and started the truck I had a solid 16 psi at idle! I haven't driven it again since but I'm pretty sure it will be good to go now. I may have to clean the valve again though.
So on to what I learned:
I should have been way more careful to not get any dirt in the lines as I installed them. Especially while snaking them through the frame. I should have taped off the ends. That would have saved a lot of worry and confusion.
Push lock fittings can really be a pain! I had only used them once before and had no problem, this time it was really hard to get them all the way on. The best way seems to be to get the hose nice and warmed up with a propane torch and kneeding it with your fingers before trying to push the fitting on. I had to get the hose very hot(like hot enough that it hurt to touch) to get the fitting to go all the way on. Then I pressed them against the truck frame from underneath. I also tried WD-40 because I had heard that it can help, but it didn't.
When installing the crankshaft adapter, be careful to tighten the four bolts evenly, a little bit at a time. There is not a lot of clearance and I think it is important to get it snugged evenly before torquing it. With a manual trans I was able to loosen the bolts and get them torqued back down to 95 ft lbs just by leaving the truck in gear and parking brake on.
The factory doorman connector at the fuel tank was really a pain to get off, it takes a lot of patients or maybe a special tool?
Be sure to mount the bypass overflow valve in an easily accessible location. A 3/4 in rubber lined metal band clamp (can be found in a hardware store electrical section) works nicely with one self tapping screw in the frame. (3/8 in clamps of the same style work great for the rubber fuel line!)
Be sure to leave yourself enough slack when routing your fuel lines to allow for adjustment of the FB from side to side to tighten the belt!
Use locktite on the Pulley setscrews! I used blue incase I ever have to take them off.
Richard at Glacier Diesel recommend regular PTFE white pipe dope for the pipe threads at the FB.
I used some extra 3/8 fuel line split down the middle as a protective cover for the fuel lines in a few places where they were against a semi sharp edge.
Harbor freight black nitrile gloves are outstanding if you like to keep the diesel smell of your hands! They last forever before tearing.
Keep in mind that you can also use this system in conjunction with an electric fuel pump if you wish. It is not necessary though and the truck starts just as well without. I choose to go without because I didn't want to have to buy two pumps and I wanted a simpler, more reliable setup. The only drawback was getting it started the first time.
Don't forget to check out the pics in my gallery!
So on to what I learned:
I should have been way more careful to not get any dirt in the lines as I installed them. Especially while snaking them through the frame. I should have taped off the ends. That would have saved a lot of worry and confusion.
Push lock fittings can really be a pain! I had only used them once before and had no problem, this time it was really hard to get them all the way on. The best way seems to be to get the hose nice and warmed up with a propane torch and kneeding it with your fingers before trying to push the fitting on. I had to get the hose very hot(like hot enough that it hurt to touch) to get the fitting to go all the way on. Then I pressed them against the truck frame from underneath. I also tried WD-40 because I had heard that it can help, but it didn't.
When installing the crankshaft adapter, be careful to tighten the four bolts evenly, a little bit at a time. There is not a lot of clearance and I think it is important to get it snugged evenly before torquing it. With a manual trans I was able to loosen the bolts and get them torqued back down to 95 ft lbs just by leaving the truck in gear and parking brake on.
The factory doorman connector at the fuel tank was really a pain to get off, it takes a lot of patients or maybe a special tool?
Be sure to mount the bypass overflow valve in an easily accessible location. A 3/4 in rubber lined metal band clamp (can be found in a hardware store electrical section) works nicely with one self tapping screw in the frame. (3/8 in clamps of the same style work great for the rubber fuel line!)
Be sure to leave yourself enough slack when routing your fuel lines to allow for adjustment of the FB from side to side to tighten the belt!
Use locktite on the Pulley setscrews! I used blue incase I ever have to take them off.
Richard at Glacier Diesel recommend regular PTFE white pipe dope for the pipe threads at the FB.
I used some extra 3/8 fuel line split down the middle as a protective cover for the fuel lines in a few places where they were against a semi sharp edge.
Harbor freight black nitrile gloves are outstanding if you like to keep the diesel smell of your hands! They last forever before tearing.
Keep in mind that you can also use this system in conjunction with an electric fuel pump if you wish. It is not necessary though and the truck starts just as well without. I choose to go without because I didn't want to have to buy two pumps and I wanted a simpler, more reliable setup. The only drawback was getting it started the first time.
Don't forget to check out the pics in my gallery!
10-24-2015, 06:10 PM
#79
Registered User
AWESOME! Glad you got it together but sorry for the trouble you went through. Seems maybe Pop was on to something after all..... 
But seriously, I think you need to check that bypass more often and understand what you're finding in there. If it continues to pile crud in there then you have a damaged fuel module pre-screen. Usually everyone has "some" crud in their tank but if its getting past that pre-screen then its damaged and allowing tank debris to pass on to the fuel pump. Thats an issue and maybe Glacier Diesel will have an opinion on running a secondary filter before the pump just in case or whether that would cause more problems.
And hey.....you should have asked about the push-loc lines. Yes, they're a total pain in the rear but there's a decent trick too. Take an old coffee can and put some oil in it. Get the oil pretty warm on a stove top. Dont upset the wife..... You dont want it BOILING hot either but just hot enough that you dont want to be dipping your digits in it if you can get away with it. Then let the end few inches of the hose sit submerged in the hot oil for a few minutes. The hose and fitting should in theory press together easier after that. Even though.....you'll still be needing your Wheaties because popping eye blood vessels is common practice with push-loc fittings.
Keep updating on how everything works too. I'm curious if all is working properly.
But seriously, I think you need to check that bypass more often and understand what you're finding in there. If it continues to pile crud in there then you have a damaged fuel module pre-screen. Usually everyone has "some" crud in their tank but if its getting past that pre-screen then its damaged and allowing tank debris to pass on to the fuel pump. Thats an issue and maybe Glacier Diesel will have an opinion on running a secondary filter before the pump just in case or whether that would cause more problems.
And hey.....you should have asked about the push-loc lines. Yes, they're a total pain in the rear but there's a decent trick too. Take an old coffee can and put some oil in it. Get the oil pretty warm on a stove top. Dont upset the wife..... You dont want it BOILING hot either but just hot enough that you dont want to be dipping your digits in it if you can get away with it. Then let the end few inches of the hose sit submerged in the hot oil for a few minutes. The hose and fitting should in theory press together easier after that. Even though.....you'll still be needing your Wheaties because popping eye blood vessels is common practice with push-loc fittings.
Keep updating on how everything works too. I'm curious if all is working properly.
10-24-2015, 06:45 PM
#80
Registered User
Thread Starter
AWESOME! Glad you got it together but sorry for the trouble you went through. Seems maybe Pop was on to something after all.....
But seriously, I think you need to check that bypass more often and understand what you're finding in there. If it continues to pile crud in there then you have a damaged fuel module pre-screen. Usually everyone has "some" crud in their tank but if its getting past that pre-screen then its damaged and allowing tank debris to pass on to the fuel pump. Thats an issue and maybe Glacier Diesel will have an opinion on running a secondary filter before the pump just in case or whether that would cause more problems.
And hey.....you should have asked about the push-loc lines. Yes, they're a total pain in the rear but there's a decent trick too. Take an old coffee can and put some oil in it. Get the oil pretty warm on a stove top. Dont upset the wife..... You dont want it BOILING hot either but just hot enough that you dont want to be dipping your digits in it if you can get away with it. Then let the end few inches of the hose sit submerged in the hot oil for a few minutes. The hose and fitting should in theory press together easier after that. Even though.....you'll still be needing your Wheaties because popping eye blood vessels is common practice with push-loc fittings.
Keep updating on how everything works too. I'm curious if all is working properly.
But seriously, I think you need to check that bypass more often and understand what you're finding in there. If it continues to pile crud in there then you have a damaged fuel module pre-screen. Usually everyone has "some" crud in their tank but if its getting past that pre-screen then its damaged and allowing tank debris to pass on to the fuel pump. Thats an issue and maybe Glacier Diesel will have an opinion on running a secondary filter before the pump just in case or whether that would cause more problems.
And hey.....you should have asked about the push-loc lines. Yes, they're a total pain in the rear but there's a decent trick too. Take an old coffee can and put some oil in it. Get the oil pretty warm on a stove top. Dont upset the wife..... You dont want it BOILING hot either but just hot enough that you dont want to be dipping your digits in it if you can get away with it. Then let the end few inches of the hose sit submerged in the hot oil for a few minutes. The hose and fitting should in theory press together easier after that. Even though.....you'll still be needing your Wheaties because popping eye blood vessels is common practice with push-loc fittings.
Keep updating on how everything works too. I'm curious if all is working properly.
Thanks for the tip with the Push Locks too. It was weird because the ones that came with my big line kit were easy so I don't know what was up with these.
Do you think I damaged my VP at all?
10-25-2015, 10:20 AM
#82
Registered User
Thread Starter
I heard back from Richard late last night. He said it is pretty common to get dirt in that valve right after the install. He also said if it continues, just let him know and he will send a strainer to install before the pump. It sure is nice dealing with a company with such amazing customer service! FASS was good too but they didnt even come close to Glacier Diesel!
10-25-2015, 04:49 PM
#83
Registered User
Thread Starter
More problems
Well it seems this dirt issues is bigger than I thought it was going to be. I've now cleaned the valve out three times and I still have specs of dirt big enough to hold it open and drop my pressure. I did some research and it seems I have 3 options. Either try the strainer that Richard mentioned, or get a FASS regulator, or install a vpmax 3 micron filter. I like the simplicity of the valve I have now but if a spec of dirt can drop my pressure I'm not sure how reliable it is. Now it's easy enough to clean it but it's still a pain. Any thoughts?
10-25-2015, 05:31 PM
#84
Registered User
You may want to pull out the fuel module. 
Especially since everything else kinda sounds like a patch fix in order to stop tank debris which shouldn't be making it that far in the first place. I dont think fuel modules are all that expensive but then again, I'm not sure how much all those other parts you mentioned cost either.
Especially since everything else kinda sounds like a patch fix in order to stop tank debris which shouldn't be making it that far in the first place. I dont think fuel modules are all that expensive but then again, I'm not sure how much all those other parts you mentioned cost either.
10-25-2015, 05:35 PM
#85
Registered User
Thread Starter
You may want to pull out the fuel module. Especially since everything else kinda sounds like a patch fix in order to stop tank debris which shouldn't be making it that far in the first place. I dont think fuel modules are all that expensive but then again, I'm not sure how much all those other parts you mentioned cost either.
Especially since everything else kinda sounds like a patch fix in order to stop tank debris which shouldn't be making it that far in the first place. I dont think fuel modules are all that expensive but then again, I'm not sure how much all those other parts you mentioned cost either.
10-25-2015, 05:58 PM
#86
Registered User
True.....true, but usually those larger volume pumps using a drawstraw have the large filters incorporated at the pump itself.
Really at this point I'm not sure what to tell ya. I'd think Glacier would have the best idea of what to do since they deal with this problem due to their design. The only issue I see about having a filter pre-fuel pump is how much will it affect fuel pump performance since fuel pumps dont like to suck through filters. That said, how often would you have to clean the strainer or what kind of strainer are we even talking about?
Really at this point I'm not sure what to tell ya. I'd think Glacier would have the best idea of what to do since they deal with this problem due to their design. The only issue I see about having a filter pre-fuel pump is how much will it affect fuel pump performance since fuel pumps dont like to suck through filters. That said, how often would you have to clean the strainer or what kind of strainer are we even talking about?
10-25-2015, 06:00 PM
#87
Registered User
Thread Starter
True.....true, but usually those larger volume pumps using a drawstraw have the large filters incorporated at the pump itself.
Really at this point I'm not sure what to tell ya. I'd think Glacier would have the best idea of what to do since they deal with this problem due to their design. The only issue I see about having a filter pre-fuel pump is how much will it affect fuel pump performance since fuel pumps dont like to suck through filters. That said, how often would you have to clean the strainer or what kind of strainer are we even talking about?
Really at this point I'm not sure what to tell ya. I'd think Glacier would have the best idea of what to do since they deal with this problem due to their design. The only issue I see about having a filter pre-fuel pump is how much will it affect fuel pump performance since fuel pumps dont like to suck through filters. That said, how often would you have to clean the strainer or what kind of strainer are we even talking about?
10-25-2015, 06:34 PM
#88
Registered User
You could try asking people who already have the Fuel Boss and seeing if you come up with any new opinions. Not to lure you from any specific forum either but 2nd Gen. Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 24V Forums - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum is a great place to find members who have plenty of experience. Sometimes you dont get the feedback you're hoping for here.