Front Wheel Bearings
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From: Illinois
Front Wheel Bearings
The lower ball joint on driver side is trashed, and I know somewhere in here I saw ways of pulling the rotors and bearings without having to beat on em. I have tried the search and can't find the posting. Any help from out there.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Wildomar, Calif.
There are 4 , 12 point bolts on the back/inside of the steering knuckle. You never have to beat on anything.
Careful with your axle shafts once you get the bearings/rotors off so your Inner axle seals dont get damaged.
I replaced my inner axle seals , Drivers side was worn out and leaking. You have to pull the ring gear carryer out to replace them.
Have Fun
Careful with your axle shafts once you get the bearings/rotors off so your Inner axle seals dont get damaged.
I replaced my inner axle seals , Drivers side was worn out and leaking. You have to pull the ring gear carryer out to replace them.
Have Fun
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 299
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From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada
99,
Did this a few years back and "beat" on 'em. Saw this post by DZLPOWER and thought it was pretty slick
(Haven't quite figured out the quote thing yet)
Oh hey, maybe I did
Hope this helps
Did this a few years back and "beat" on 'em. Saw this post by DZLPOWER and thought it was pretty slick
(Haven't quite figured out the quote thing yet)
Oh hey, maybe I did
I did mine a few months ago and its not realy hard. Took me 6 hours to get the first side off, using pullers and beating on it. Found a tip on here that saved the day in about 15 seconds. Got the other side off in about 30 min.
1. Set the front axle up on secure jack stands and remove wheels.
2. Find a large socket to fit the axle nut (1 11/16?) and have someone apply the brakes while you remove the nut. ( you could do it with the truck still on the ground w/wheels on)
3. remove calipers and hang with wire.
4. remove the 4 bolts on the back of the spindle Note: they are 12 point
5. Heres the tip that saved my day and was the only way i could get mine off(very rusty). If you have 4 wheel abs, then dont do this, unless some body explains how you can. There is some type of ring that must be removed???
-Anyways, turn the front of the wheel/rotor all the way in towards the truck.
-Rotate the axle shaft so that the inner u-joint is vertical.
-Place a good sized socket (1.5-2" long) between the outer u-joint (horizontal), and the end of the axle tube.
- start up the truck and turn the steering wheel in the appropriate direction, to press out the hub. (if your working on the driver side, turn the steering wheel left and vise versa for pass side).
Hub should pop right out.
- Slide the hub off, and try to support the axle shaft so it dosent "hang". Try to keep it horizontal as possible while the hub is off.
- Thats as far as i got with the hub, i didnt pull the rotor apart, but like everyone else said, you bang out the studs to remove it. I had my rotors turned with the hub still on.
I may have forgot some steps and the last step may sound like greek, just ask questions if you dont see how to do it. Goodluck -Jake
1. Set the front axle up on secure jack stands and remove wheels.
2. Find a large socket to fit the axle nut (1 11/16?) and have someone apply the brakes while you remove the nut. ( you could do it with the truck still on the ground w/wheels on)
3. remove calipers and hang with wire.
4. remove the 4 bolts on the back of the spindle Note: they are 12 point
5. Heres the tip that saved my day and was the only way i could get mine off(very rusty). If you have 4 wheel abs, then dont do this, unless some body explains how you can. There is some type of ring that must be removed???
-Anyways, turn the front of the wheel/rotor all the way in towards the truck.
-Rotate the axle shaft so that the inner u-joint is vertical.
-Place a good sized socket (1.5-2" long) between the outer u-joint (horizontal), and the end of the axle tube.
- start up the truck and turn the steering wheel in the appropriate direction, to press out the hub. (if your working on the driver side, turn the steering wheel left and vise versa for pass side).
Hub should pop right out.
- Slide the hub off, and try to support the axle shaft so it dosent "hang". Try to keep it horizontal as possible while the hub is off.
- Thats as far as i got with the hub, i didnt pull the rotor apart, but like everyone else said, you bang out the studs to remove it. I had my rotors turned with the hub still on.
I may have forgot some steps and the last step may sound like greek, just ask questions if you dont see how to do it. Goodluck -Jake
Chapter President
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 1
From: Rural Hall, NC
Here's the thread...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ghlight=rotors
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ghlight=rotors
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 299
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From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada
Ouch,
Not sure if I understand your post or to whom it is directed GSP.
I think DZL's approach is creative and resourcefull. It demonstrates exactly what this site is all about, sharing experiances and knowledge while promoting comradery.
That last post does not.
Not sure if I understand your post or to whom it is directed GSP.
I think DZL's approach is creative and resourcefull. It demonstrates exactly what this site is all about, sharing experiances and knowledge while promoting comradery.
That last post does not.
Chapter President
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,539
Likes: 7
From: Caistor Centre, ON, Canada
I have replaced many of these #$%*&@ Dodge wheel bearings and some of them have been VERY seized on. I use a 20 lb slide hammer on 3 wheel studs and a good pair of leather gloves. They usually come off without too much fuss, but if I didn't have access to that slide hammer I would have gone nuts. There is just no substitue for the right tool for the job
. If you can't beg, borrow, rent or steal a slide hammer, then you may have to beat on them if they are badly seized but as a last resort.
I also coat the surface of the wheel bearing where it is pressed into the knuckle with anti seize. This has made them much easier too remove later.
. There is just no substitue for the right tool for the job . If you can't beg, borrow, rent or steal a slide hammer, then you may have to beat on them if they are badly seized but as a last resort.I also coat the surface of the wheel bearing where it is pressed into the knuckle with anti seize. This has made them much easier too remove later.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 697
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From: Wildomar, Calif.
Originally posted by Tazman
Ouch,
Not sure if I understand your post or to whom it is directed GSP.
I think DZL's approach is creative and resourcefull. It demonstrates exactly what this site is all about, sharing experiances and knowledge while promoting comradery.
That last post does not.
Ouch,
Not sure if I understand your post or to whom it is directed GSP.
I think DZL's approach is creative and resourcefull. It demonstrates exactly what this site is all about, sharing experiances and knowledge while promoting comradery.
That last post does not.
My post was directed at no one . Why do you try and ster up trouble .
Improper repair work can cause further damage to parts of the truck.
Who ever worked on my truck front brakes before I bought it destroyed the front bearing because they didnt know what they were doing and didnt have the proper tools or skills.
I had to redo my whole front end , new Inner axle seals , new bearings redo the rotor installation,etc . Not a cheap repair the result only because who ever worked on it did shabby work.
A service manual sould be read and the proper tools used before trying to perform repairs to avoid damageing your truck , or passing a poor repair job on to someone else when the truck is resold, and also keep the trucks value up.
Beating on the axle with a hammer to loosin it may be necesary , However it can cause the bearing to seperate and can and most likely cause damage to the iner axle seals, causeing oil to leak out. The bearings may not reseat when the big axle nut is tightened back on ,on reassembly. Causeing loose bearings ,and wheel camber off,and cause tire wear.
If the bearings get loose they should be tapped back tight with a brass hammer before they are installed on the truck.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 220
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So here is what I did. It is VERY easy to replace everything. I just finishied it last night... Took about 15 minutes per side MAX!!!
1. Take the wheel off.
2. REmove the caliper on the brakes
3. Take out the cotter pin in the axle shaft (with the nut)
4. Remove the nut (put a screwdriver in the vents of the rotor, and let that stop the rotor from turning
5. Pull the 4 12 pt 9/16 bolts off the back of the hub (these can be found incside the knuckle)
6. Remove the whole hub/rotor assmebly. (if it is stuck, get a 3 prong gear puller and pull the assembly off the shaft)
7. To remove the hub from the rotor, pound out the studs
Good Luck
Dima
1. Take the wheel off.
2. REmove the caliper on the brakes
3. Take out the cotter pin in the axle shaft (with the nut)
4. Remove the nut (put a screwdriver in the vents of the rotor, and let that stop the rotor from turning
5. Pull the 4 12 pt 9/16 bolts off the back of the hub (these can be found incside the knuckle)
6. Remove the whole hub/rotor assmebly. (if it is stuck, get a 3 prong gear puller and pull the assembly off the shaft)
7. To remove the hub from the rotor, pound out the studs
Good Luck
Dima
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 299
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From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada
Flatty,
You were fortunate. Like CTD posted, these can really be "frozen" (rusted) on and down right nasty.
I saw the puller idea when I did mine and thought that was the way to go. Nadda.
Ended up pulling the hub assy apart even though I gently applied pull and tried to be careful. They can go back together if not too bad as GSP has pointed out. That's how I fixed mine.
I guess the secret for success is anti sieze on reinstall for next time ( at least for us "salty" northerners)
You were fortunate. Like CTD posted, these can really be "frozen" (rusted) on and down right nasty.
I saw the puller idea when I did mine and thought that was the way to go. Nadda.
Ended up pulling the hub assy apart even though I gently applied pull and tried to be careful. They can go back together if not too bad as GSP has pointed out. That's how I fixed mine.
I guess the secret for success is anti sieze on reinstall for next time ( at least for us "salty" northerners)
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