So I go out to start the truck after it's been sitting for a couple months, and it starts right up, only about a 1/2 second of cranking. But once I drive it for a little, for example to home depot, when I try to start it again, it needs to crank for about 7 seconds, and finally begins to fire and starts. The thing is, it runs great once it's going, no issues at any rpm or with smoothness. The only problem is getting it started once the engine is warm. I have no idea why this is happening, nothing has changed on the truck. I moved to Alaska, but it's summer and outside is very nice It would make more sense to me if it had trouble starting cold, but I have the opposite problem. And the secondary part, maybe related, is that once you drive and shift through a couple gears, any time you let out the cluth and it's idling, the truck lopes for a little bit. It was not very noticable in the past, barely so. But today, with all the starting issues I was worried it was about to stall. At a stop light, I finish down shifting and even then, it noticably drops from 800 down to 500 rpm, about once a second for several times, getting better each time until it stops. Then all is good and I drive away, but same story at each light or sign I come to. No codes came up.

Has anyone had similar issues? I have searched with no luck really, on either problem. Thanks for the help, I need to get the truck reliable again! The baby girl is due in about a week!

 

change your fuel filter.

once again, I know it sounds dumb, but give it a shot.

 

I will probably do that, that's an easy one, and seems to fix all kinds of issues.

I just went out though and tried starting, it's been sitting for a few hours, and it started right up, no problem.

 

Probably wouldn't hurt to put some additive in the fuel to dry up any moisture in the tank.

 

I will try that too, but I am wondering, if it was a fuel issue like that, wouldn't it affect all operation, not just starting? I will get on that though, thanks guys. I'll check back in once I do it.

 

Have you checked for codes with key on three times trick??? Might want to try a APPS reset AND get rid of bad memories.
Is it acting like the governor is slow to respond??

 

I've never reset the APPS, I will read up on that.

I did check for codes by cycling the ingnition, nothing.

If the governer also is what controls the idle rpm, then maybe yeah, it drops a few 100 rpm then slowly goes back up. Is reseting the APPS easy?

 

Is there more than one way to reset the APPS? I read about the one where you unhook the batteries for 15 min, then connect, turn ignition to ON not RUN, and slowly depress pedal all the way to floor and slowly release.

Is there another method, or procedure related to measuring/setting voltages? I thought I read something like that a while ago. Thanks

 

yes there is another procedure for setting the apps.

It involves pin voltages, and physically rotating the apps sensor to achieve the desired voltage at idle and WOT.

the thread is on here, just do a search.

Also, if it turns out your apps is hooped, get hold of Timbo, I have one of his units on my 01, excellent product thus far.

 

Mine is a 12Valve, so this may not apply, but I had the same thing happen once - after it sat for three months. Actually mine took three long cranks - with a prime session in between 2 & 3 to get started initially. Then it ran great for a week, got cranky the next week and finally would not start at all end of second week. It turned out it was the fuel sender unit and supply & return lines had corroded over time - and needed replaced. Once all done - no more issues.

 

I did the quick APPS reset, and I think that cured the lope/idle issue. But the truck still starts fine in the morning, but after that it really needs to crank before it fires. But once it's started it runs great. ???

 

Sounds like it could be a low compression issue from worn Piston Rings, or scored or tapered cylinders. Clearances could be tight enough when the engine is cold but would open up after coming up to operating temperature. Just my opinion, of course.

 

Heat normally affects electronic components in a negative fashion. check your battery connections, your connections at the Injection Pump and ECM, and also, check your ECT, located up near the thermostat housing.

That last one gave me fits one time. The truck would not start warm when the sensor was plugged in. when warm, if it cranks extensively, unplug the ECT and see what happens.

 

That is the main fear I have, I am hoping it is many other small things before that, which would mean a rebuild

I will try unplugging it and see if anything changes.

I got a half tank of fresh fuel, the other half was from March and probably had a lot of #1 and additives. Anyway, I thought the APPS reset did the trick but it still lopes a little, and the starting issue remains the same. I am going to try the ECT thing and if that leads to nothing I will calibrate the voltage on the APPS. Thanks!

 

So how can you check compression in a diesel? No spark plug to remove. Do you somehow remove an injector, insert gauge, and put valve cover back on? At first I thought compression might not be it, because the metal would expand when warm, and seal better....but, I wasn't thinking like I should be! The cast iron block has a higher coeff. of thermal expansion than the steel pistons, so really they would expand, but less than the block, meaning an overall increase in tolerances. I haven't had time to do apps voltage, will try today. Hope that helps things.

So how do you test compression?