Fass Ddrp
#16
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: The Great Northwest!
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Yes, you can mount the FASS DDRP on the factory bracket. That's how they designed the pump. I do recommend a relocation kit as they seem to put up and hold a few more pounds of pressure. Make sure you get the right bracket and not one from a Carter kit rebadged, they are WAY too light.
You will have to do something about getting fuel from the tank. The easiest way is with a DrawStraw V
Dave
#17
I am removing the intank module and using a free original module for the DDRP. Although it is better than the Carter, it is similar in psi. So it should work just fine and with the 4 year warranty, I have nothing to loose by putting it were the carter was. Cheap and easy. I love this place.
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NE Wisconsin
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I installed the FASS DDRP in my truck today. It took a little longer than I planned and was a little frustrating. Major problem was the OEM fuel line bracket on the intake side of the new pump. I did not have any tools to disconnect the quick coupler from the tank fuel line, which probably would have made the job easier. It appeared from the photographs on their instructions that this is what they did, but no mention of it at all.
I could not get the banjo bolt on the intake side to line up to save my soul. According to the instructions, the hole in the OEM fuel line bracket should align with the 10-32 tapped hole in the new mounting plate, and the flat head screw is fastened down to hold this in place. It was impossible to thread the banjo in this way, it wanted to cross thread. After taking a closer look, it was apparent there isn't enough relief milled in the mounting plate for clearance of this bracket. What I ended up doing was grabbing a hand file and kept removing material from the end of the fuel line bracket until the banjo bolt finally was able to thread in by hand. This took quite awhile. Then the hole in the OEM bracket did not line up with the 10-32 screw, so I just discarded it. It appears it doesn't really fasten it anyway, just sorta holds it in place, as the diameter of the bracket hole is much larger than the #10 screw.
The push on banjo barbs for the new hose definitely take some muscle to assemble, but that went good, I didn't even have to cut the hose at all. Got everything fastened down, wiring harness connected, primed the filter canister just Iike I do when filter changing, bumped the starter, put the plug back in. Then went back to start, must have had some air, had to crank twice at 10 second intervals, then third time she fired up. 13-14 psi at idle, no leaks. Took a test run after warmed up. Hammer down, lowest reading 11 psi.
The Carter lift pump that was in is 13 months old. The psi steadily decreased to where I was getting 10 psi idle, and 8 psi WOT. Thought it was time to upgrade. I don't know if my OEM fuel line bracket got bent somewhere along the line, it didn't appear as though. Or possibly there are different style OEM brackets out there? I did read and review the instructions provided thoroughly last night before tearing into the job.
I applaud FASS for making this pump available, it sure fits the bill for me being slightly modified.
I could not get the banjo bolt on the intake side to line up to save my soul. According to the instructions, the hole in the OEM fuel line bracket should align with the 10-32 tapped hole in the new mounting plate, and the flat head screw is fastened down to hold this in place. It was impossible to thread the banjo in this way, it wanted to cross thread. After taking a closer look, it was apparent there isn't enough relief milled in the mounting plate for clearance of this bracket. What I ended up doing was grabbing a hand file and kept removing material from the end of the fuel line bracket until the banjo bolt finally was able to thread in by hand. This took quite awhile. Then the hole in the OEM bracket did not line up with the 10-32 screw, so I just discarded it. It appears it doesn't really fasten it anyway, just sorta holds it in place, as the diameter of the bracket hole is much larger than the #10 screw.
The push on banjo barbs for the new hose definitely take some muscle to assemble, but that went good, I didn't even have to cut the hose at all. Got everything fastened down, wiring harness connected, primed the filter canister just Iike I do when filter changing, bumped the starter, put the plug back in. Then went back to start, must have had some air, had to crank twice at 10 second intervals, then third time she fired up. 13-14 psi at idle, no leaks. Took a test run after warmed up. Hammer down, lowest reading 11 psi.
The Carter lift pump that was in is 13 months old. The psi steadily decreased to where I was getting 10 psi idle, and 8 psi WOT. Thought it was time to upgrade. I don't know if my OEM fuel line bracket got bent somewhere along the line, it didn't appear as though. Or possibly there are different style OEM brackets out there? I did read and review the instructions provided thoroughly last night before tearing into the job.
I applaud FASS for making this pump available, it sure fits the bill for me being slightly modified.
#19
DTR's Cow Boss
Any one got any photos of this pump installed? I am seriously considering it and getting away from air tex I don't like there fuel line attachment on the front of there pump and this is my second one the first lasted 8 months so I got 8 months to figure it out
#20
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Rhode Island
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I just finished my install today (99 Ram 2500). Had a bit of difficulty getting the wire harness nut off (the whole stud came out of the pump, but other than tight clearances for access, the kit was great. Bolted right up, hose length was adequate. I'm very satisfied with this purchase. I'd have neven known about it had it not been for this website.
#21
Newbie with FASS DDRP questions!
Hi all hope someone here can help.
I recently put a fass ddrp on my 2000 cummins due to failed lift pump and injection pump. Every thing is stock so I figured the ddrp would be sufficient. It came with an extra spring to give more pressure if needed. I tried it and the pump held 29-30 psi at idle and 20 while cruising and about 15 WOT. The problem was hard starts due to the high pressure. So I replaced the spring with the lighter spring and 14 psi at idle and 4-6 psi at 65-70 mph and 0 psi at WOT. What should I do, is there another spring to keep it somewhere in the middle? I am afraid to drive it and burn up my new vp44!
Thanks for any help you might have!
I recently put a fass ddrp on my 2000 cummins due to failed lift pump and injection pump. Every thing is stock so I figured the ddrp would be sufficient. It came with an extra spring to give more pressure if needed. I tried it and the pump held 29-30 psi at idle and 20 while cruising and about 15 WOT. The problem was hard starts due to the high pressure. So I replaced the spring with the lighter spring and 14 psi at idle and 4-6 psi at 65-70 mph and 0 psi at WOT. What should I do, is there another spring to keep it somewhere in the middle? I am afraid to drive it and burn up my new vp44!
Thanks for any help you might have!
#23
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hillsboro, Or
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warning light for transfer pump FAILURE
I installed a warning light and switch on my 2002 last year and noticed recently that when I turned the the key on the light did not blink. The vibration of the engine snapped off the leads. I got a new switch but mounted it on the end of a short greasegun replacement hose. They are cheap and have 1/8 pipe threads already on the for easy install. I installed the switch and a small gauge using an 1/8 brass tee and used a tyrap to secure it but not too tight so it does not absorb the vibrations from the engine. Shold be a long time fix.
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